Replacing fork seals

Can you read a manual?

Best bet is to buy some beer for a friend that has done it before. Have him show you the ropes. Beyond that its not hard just another process to learn. I went the route, learning from a friend. The manual makes sense after you follow what the hell is going on. I have never done KYB so maybe they are easier then Showa.

I have replaced the fork seals on all my old bikes (Showa twin chambers, WP twin chambers and older KYB bumper forks). The old KYBs are easier to do without dedicated tools, but having them makes the job easier. A seal driver is nice to have too.
They aren't hard to do if you have some mechanical aptitude and can read the manual. I have found some decent how to stuff on various web pages also.

He is trying to fuck you over if he wants to charge $200. IS that labor plus parts or jsut labor? Shouldnt' take more than an hour. It's not that hard, just gotta be a little careful not to scratch/tear seals and what order everything goes in and out. If you had a manual next to you you shouldnt have a problem

I replace mine when they start leaking and cleaning under the seal lip doesn't stop the leaking. You can make a seal driver from some PVC pipe at the hardware store. Beer is a required ingredient too.....

All my friends come to me to show them how to replace the seals. I had a friend that showed me so i am eager to help others. Showa and KYB are the same. 1. Do one at a time. 2. Make sure you use the same weight fluid as what comes out. 3. If you are by your self you will need to make the mechanics stop tool to hold the inside piece while you take the adjuster cap off. If someone helps you they can hold it with the open end of a wrench. 4. check the settings on both end of your shocks so you can set them back. 5. turn the rebound(bottom adjuster) all the way out. 6. Put the shock in a vise to hold it while you drain it. 7. After you have drained the shock oil out turn the shock horizontally in the vise(do not over tighten the vise on your shock tube a rag is the best thing to use in the vise also) an electric impact wrench will loosen the bottom nut quick but it is not ness. 8. this will allow you to push the inner tube up to remove the nut ( this is were you need a stop tool or a friend to hold up on the inner tube(silver part) so you can get an open end wrench on the aduster tube to screw it off.9. remove the dust seal and under it you will see the retainer for the main seal take it out. 10. to remove the tube and the seal you have to gently but forcfully pull the tube out. 11. After removing the tube you will see the inside guide and the outside guide remove them both and put the dust seal on and the oil seal on the tube( be carfull the grooves for the guides are sharp and some people use and oil bread sack to cover them and slide the seals on over the bread sack) 12. reinstall the guides on the inside tube the first guide will go in easy the second one is tough. You see that it is split, try to start one side in before the other and then start working it in. This guide will be the hardest part of the job but it must be installed all the way under where the seal will go. Do not scratch the inside tube or outside tube. A seal driver is the answer though I installed a many of them with a screw diver.13. install the seal and retainer and the dust seal. 14. install the cap and and tork it to the correct ft lbs.15. turn the shock over and remove the top cap and pour the required shock oil in and reinstall the cap and work the shock about a dozen times and then install it on the bike.

Factory shop manuals are worth their price in gold. Everything is easy when you have the correct reference material and tools.

You don't even need fork seal drivers. Get the right size piece of PVC and cut it in half down it's length. A piece with a tapered end works best