Set up tips for 2012 YZ250F

Jaz_83
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Jaz_83
Edited Date/Time 4/25/2014 12:20pm
Hi guys,

I just picked up a 2012 YZ250F, my last 6 bikes have been 450's but I thought I'd give a 250 a try. I am around 220 lbs, 5'10" and the bike is stock, where do I start? It seems to go ok, I really just wanted to try a lighter feeling bike that won't wear me out too quickly. The first thing I noticed is the front brake lever pull's nearly all the way to the bars way too easily. I noticed this on a friends yz as well, would like more pressure and feel.
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erikcrvjl
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erikcrvjl 4/24/2014 7:13am
4/24/2014 7:13am
Wait. You want a stiffer clutch pull? Just because it's easy to pull in doesn't make it ineffective, you're probably just used to the feel of the 450 clutches which will always be stiffer.

Not sure if you've ridden the bike much, but you'll probably realize this bike has ZERO top end. To aid this I put a full FMF exhaust, the Mototassinari air boot, and have it geared down one tooth on mine. These definitely helped give it some top end to where I wasn't always over revving the bike everywhere. You could always throw in some stage 2 hotcams to give you more top as well.
bish153
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bish153 4/24/2014 7:56am
4/24/2014 7:56am
Well...If you weigh 220 on a 250f, the only place to start is suspension!!! I would say you are a tad on the heavy side for this bike, especially with stock springs. Other that that maybe an exhaust. Then buy yourself a few sets of tires, an extra chain, sprockets and just go ride.
Arkmx
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Arkmx 4/24/2014 8:47am
4/24/2014 8:47am
.

Here iare a few things to do and check to see if they have been done: theses are easy to do mods to help fix your carb bog when snapping the throttle. These are done to our 2012 YZ250F.

Install the R&D Adjustable Leak Jet (R & D Racing product) and their Adjustable Fuel Screw ( 1-1/2 turns out) along with the tips in the video and you will have no bogs what-so-ever. Can snap the throttle like a two stoke or EFI bike and instant RPM's..!

You will use the adjustable Leak Jet to adjust your fuel mixture accordingly.

FMF Exhaust works well giving the bike more top end pull. you will loose some bottom end with the FMF exhaust. We installed the FMF "Snap" in our bike too. Helps bring the bottom end hit back in without loosing the new top end pull.

Also thanks to Jason Rains for sending me the link, useful info in the video...





Good luck with your new bike!

.
Arkmx
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Arkmx 4/24/2014 8:51am
4/24/2014 8:51am
.

Check to see if your rear brake pads have the insulators on the pads. If they are there remove them if you have problems with your rear wheel spinning as freely as it could...

Here is some of our info on the pads...

Found the culprit yesterday...!

Still a drag going on yesterday, Zach's rotor was getting HOT and bluing! Everything was working like it should, so I said let's remove the "insulator" pad & cover plate off the pads. Re-installed the pads and Zach did his last moto of the day. When he came back the rear wheel was still spinning freely...! Woo Hoo!! Finally found the problem. Who would think such a simple OEM part would cause so many headaches.



.

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Panic_Rev
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Panic_Rev 4/24/2014 12:32pm
4/24/2014 12:32pm
Arkmx wrote:
. Check to see if your rear brake pads have the insulators on the pads. If they are there remove them if you have problems with...
.

Check to see if your rear brake pads have the insulators on the pads. If they are there remove them if you have problems with your rear wheel spinning as freely as it could...

Here is some of our info on the pads...

Found the culprit yesterday...!

Still a drag going on yesterday, Zach's rotor was getting HOT and bluing! Everything was working like it should, so I said let's remove the "insulator" pad & cover plate off the pads. Re-installed the pads and Zach did his last moto of the day. When he came back the rear wheel was still spinning freely...! Woo Hoo!! Finally found the problem. Who would think such a simple OEM part would cause so many headaches.



.
so you are running your break pads without these clips? Any issues up to this point? I too have noticed the drag on the rear wheel and never figured out why.
erikcrvjl
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erikcrvjl 4/24/2014 8:53pm
4/24/2014 8:53pm
erikcrvjl wrote:
Wait. You want a stiffer clutch pull? Just because it's easy to pull in doesn't make it ineffective, you're probably just used to the feel of...
Wait. You want a stiffer clutch pull? Just because it's easy to pull in doesn't make it ineffective, you're probably just used to the feel of the 450 clutches which will always be stiffer.

Not sure if you've ridden the bike much, but you'll probably realize this bike has ZERO top end. To aid this I put a full FMF exhaust, the Mototassinari air boot, and have it geared down one tooth on mine. These definitely helped give it some top end to where I wasn't always over revving the bike everywhere. You could always throw in some stage 2 hotcams to give you more top as well.
Oops I feel like an idiot. I just realized you said brake lever... Please disregard my first paragraph.
Jaz_83
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Jaz_83 4/24/2014 9:42pm
4/24/2014 9:42pm Edited Date/Time 4/24/2014 9:49pm
Haha, no problem. I seen that you misread. I have been out in the garage play with the bike and worked out how to adjust the lever, I should have known just had a momentary blank. Will check out the rear brake pad situation too. I have only been for a short ride but the throttle response is flawless, not bog or hesitation. Could do with a little more power but I am used to 450's so ill have to adjust.
fulltime wrench 4/24/2014 9:44pm
4/24/2014 9:44pm
Your front brake is probably full of air. Although, the first thing you should do before removing the cap is look at the entire brake system from the outside. Start with the lever, if its bent, replace it. If not take it off the bar, don't lose any springs or small parts, and inspect the bushing and pivot bolt. If they are worn (lever or bolt) replace them. Otherwise, clean the assembly up real good and put it back together with grease on the spring, pivot bolt, and the area of the lever that contacts the master cylinder plunger. Tighten the pivot BOLT first then snug the nut up on the bottom. Now move down the brake line making sure there is no leaking fittings or hose that is pinched, torn, ripped, or rubbed in two. At the caliper you should be able to compress the piston with some considerable force but it shouldn't take a hammer or any kind of brute strength. If that's the case the master cylinder is either over full, caliper packed with mud, or seized on the sliding pins. Spin the wheel watching to see if the rotor wobbles, it shouldn't. Check the brake pads, replace them anyway and make sure the little stainless steel guides are still there and the pin isn't grooved up. Use anti-seize on the threads of the pin only. Now find a buddy to help you bleed the system. Take the cap off and get the old fluid out with a syringe or some paper towels, don't touch the lever. Use brand new purchased that day DOT4 brake fluid and top it off. Use a box end wrench on the bleeder and a foot or so of clear tubing that fits tightly over the nipple into a cup. Pump the lever several times then stop and tell your buddy crack the bleeder open. Now pull the lever all the way to the grip and hold it there, tell bud to tighten bleeder, release lever, top off fluid level and repeat. Do this until absolutely no bubbles come out of the nipple and only "clean as what you poured in" fluid flows out. If the brake still sucks the master cylinder needs rebuilt take it to a mechanic.
Jaz_83
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Jaz_83 4/24/2014 10:48pm
4/24/2014 10:48pm
Thanks for the advice, I will give the brakes a bleed after my next ride if need be. The lever pulling to the bars was just a result of the lever adjustment bolt being wound all the way in, I was able to adjust the lever to to a more comfortable position and it no longer pulls all the way to the bars. The bike is only 2 hours old so is set up as it came from the dealer with no adjustments made.

I will take it out to my property, get some seat time and work out what direction I will go with mods.
Arkmx
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Arkmx 4/25/2014 12:20pm
4/25/2014 12:20pm
Arkmx wrote:
. Check to see if your rear brake pads have the insulators on the pads. If they are there remove them if you have problems with...
.

Check to see if your rear brake pads have the insulators on the pads. If they are there remove them if you have problems with your rear wheel spinning as freely as it could...

Here is some of our info on the pads...

Found the culprit yesterday...!

Still a drag going on yesterday, Zach's rotor was getting HOT and bluing! Everything was working like it should, so I said let's remove the "insulator" pad & cover plate off the pads. Re-installed the pads and Zach did his last moto of the day. When he came back the rear wheel was still spinning freely...! Woo Hoo!! Finally found the problem. Who would think such a simple OEM part would cause so many headaches.



.
Panic_Rev wrote:
so you are running your break pads without these clips? Any issues up to this point? I too have noticed the drag on the rear wheel...
so you are running your break pads without these clips? Any issues up to this point? I too have noticed the drag on the rear wheel and never figured out why.
.

Yes and no problems without them.

.

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