Posts
1756
Joined
6/30/2023
Location
sebree, KY
US
Edited Date/Time
4/24/2026 4:25pm
Do clutch contents and other bike specific stuff cause this discoloration?
It’s not consuming coolant and it looked like this last tke runs thing weird. I turned the contrast up so the bike oil (top) is not this white. It’s not even white at all but I had to do this to get it to show up. I would describe it as more of a sheen (clutch, gearbox still breaking in, etc.). Is this normal? Thanks guys!
Bike is a 25 RMZ450 with about 10 hours or so on it 
Did drain it when hot or cold?
If cold then the grey can be clutch debris which is normal on a bike. If hot I would expect it to be a homogenous colour.
Cold drain, stagnant drain at that. Bike hasnt started in probably 8 days or so. I did notice it got less sheen-y as time went on. Like the darker stuff was “on top”. I’m not totally sure my OP makes sense - I drained the bike oil into the pan that had some old oil from my car as well. Sorry if that wasn’t clear.
+1 looks like clutch fiber, no cause for alarm.
I’m a clutch enthusiast lol.
Should I up my interval to like 3 hours from 4-5 range in this case? Oil filter every other ride?
I don’t see how that can be good for the rest of the system. I NEVER adjust my perch though so it doesn’t seem like the wear is that high.
The Shop
Free shipping: VITALMX
DeCal Works Huge Plastic Inventory of UFO and Polisport kits.
Luxon 4-Post Bar Mounts
$189.95 - $239.95
Possible Moisture from condensation
I wouldn't be worried about doing shorter intervals. This is pretty much expected, especially the first few oil changes on a new bike, and changing when it's cold.
Magnetic drain plug might be a good precaution if it doesn't already have one.
Can you run motorcycle oil in your car?
It looks like normal used oil.
That sheen is likely ground off clutch material.
Have you cleaned the oil screen yet?
You can but not recommended. In oil for bikes there are additives to add friction for the clutch which I assume does not improve the lubricating properties.
Oh dude I feel so stupid I forgot about the strainer bahaha. I guess I’ll learn it over and do it right now😂 I’ve never forgotten it in the past though if that’s your question.
I've heard it said that the addives for clutch/transmission are hard on main and rod type bearings in an auto bottom end.
My 20 year old F150’s rear main seal has been basically gone for a few years. It leaks out oil about as fast as you put it in. It’s cycled plenty of Bel Ray Mineral 10w40, Maxima Proplus, Polaris SxS Oil, and just about anything else our dealership sold. Also more times than I’d like to admit, it burned plenty of pre-mixed fuel and race fuel to get back home. Just turned over 288k on the odometer a few weeks ago.
You have this somewhat backwards. In automobile oil, they add friction modifiers to help make the oil "more slick." it is this additive that doesn't play nice with wet clutches. For this reason, you should look for motorcycle wet clutch oils specifically for your motorcycle. (You can also use older, less advanced automotive oils with an SI or SJ rating, I believe. @MotoTribology, help me out here.)
@OwenJakes, I think what you are describing is you have drained used motorcycle oil into a container that already had used automobile oil in it. Is that right? In that case, I would fully expect the two fluids to be different in color, sheen and viscosity. You'd likely see one floating on top of the other and you'll definitely see more material in the motorcycle oil from the clutch. If you had water in the oil, you wouldn't have to turn up the contrast very much; we'd see it!
You're exactly right in that interpretation.
Yes, the one time I have seen water and oil interplay it was much more like a cloudy beige result. Great insight - I appreciate it!
Post a reply to: Bike oil vs. Car oil