2022 350SXF KTM

Honestly, ride it first and break it in.... let the suspension and components get past the first few hours then decide if you need to adjust things like handlebars, tweak suspension, etc. Had a friend just race his at Top Gun here (22 model, fast B rider) and he is leaving everything stock so far. Hasn't made any complaints thus far other than I think he is adjusting the bars to a softer one.

I have a ‘22 350 as well. This helped a lot so far. I don’t have a lot of time on it yet and haven’t done any other testing or parts swaps other then the air filter cage.

10.6 bar (155 psi)
Compression: 15 clicks out (12 clicks out stock)
Rebound: 10 clicks out (12 clicks out stock)
Fork-leg height: Third line

Race sag: 105mm
Hi-compression: 1-1/4 turns out (1-1/2 turns out stock)
Lo-compression: 15 clicks out
Rebound: 10 clicks out (15 clicks out stock)

Order a air filter cage for a 2 stroke and run the vented side cover and the throttle response is very noticeably improved.

Check the drain bolt for tightness. Saw a few reports of some barely finger tight from the factory.

Nihilo manual gen-2 tensioner or Dirt Tricks tensioner. Your choice.

Be prepared to replace rim locks, rim strips, and tubes in short order.

Bar mounts after your first tip over.

Keep an eye on all the bolts and spokes. They like to loosen up.

Engine hanger bolts, spokes, handlebars of your choice. The inner tubes are thin. Replace when you can.

I would get a skid plate. If you do get the one from the power parts catalog as it’s excellent. Re-check sag and re-evaluate the suspension after 5 or so hours. The suspension is different but it works unless you are used to a really plush ride.

Get protaper/renthal handlebars. Helps with rigid front end feel, unless you like that. If your budget allows get spring conversion or better yet KYB conversion/luckys/cones/whatever, while air is okay, its hollow feel can make it hard to track and feel the front end.

I picked up the same bike a couple weeks ago. I only have almost 3 hours on the engine. However, yesterday I had a great day of testing on a groomed track and this is what I found so far. I should mention I am a vet racer MX only, 50 years old. I am 5'11" 198 pounds. I race old slow guy class in Pennsylvania. Our tracks are mostly loamy clay that start off soft and grabby dirt and quickly get rough and rutted.

Someone else mentioned getting 5-6 hours of break in. I agree, but no reason to not start playing with air and clickers. I mean who that hell wants to ride around with an ill handling bike for 6 hours? I just wouldnt send in out for a revalve or spring conversion without first seeing where you can get the suspension after break in.

For me:

Air: 10.6 bar is way to low of an air pressure. That was evident almost immediately on a steep down hill and hard braking into corners. I went up to 10.8 bar and it was much better. 10.8 bar is about 157PSI. It doesnt seem like much, but its almost 2 spring rates higher. I did try 10.9 and then the forks felt stiff and the front wheel wanted to climb out of ruts.

Compression: I started at 12 out, but felt like I wasnt using all the travel that I should, felt a tad stiff throughout and I was about 2 inches from the bottom of the fork tube from bottoming. Oh, something cool I learned yesterday from someone else. Look at the bottom of your fork tubes, you will find a red rubber/nylon ring. You can move that up to upper tube and you can monitor the travel you use in the forks. Neat little addition by KTM. I went 1 click out on comp to 13.

Rebound: I had the setting of 15 out. Initially this worked well with the grabby dirt, but occasionally the front tire wanted to climb our of ruts. As the dirt dried the front wheel wanted to skate out in turns with loose dry dirt with no rut or berm. I went in 2 clicks to 13 out to slow rebound and that worked well.

Shock settings:

The only adjustment I did for the shock other than setting sag at 105mm, which I think I will drop sag or raise the rear to 103-102, is cranked in the H/S comp to 1 1/2 runs. It felt a little wallowy at 2 out.

L/S comp and rebound are still at stock settings and the rear felt great. maybe a little slow on rebound as on hard braking it seemed to want to skip slightly. I'll evaluate that more later.

As for the check this and check thats:

I did check spokes before I rode, half way through the day i checked again, I didnt find any sloppy loose, but a few were not torqued to spec. A few I had to turn about a 1/4 turn to torque, nothing crazy. However, that was front and rear so check both.

Im not real happy with the handle bars, but I will wait for break in before I change those. I will also be putting a skid plate on, Not a fan of having that case as exposed as it is.

I tried both airbox covers and I really like the vented one. There is a difference. Vented one seems to have just a bit more hit. Nothing earth shattering, but it will make you grin. I played with the maps and traction control I liked map 1 as the track I was on was tight and you had to be precise in the deep rutted corners. I do think that map 2 would be better if you happen to be the first couple of motos on a freshly groomed track. I did like the traction control late in the day too. In some areas the the dirt had been moved enough where I was on slick hard pack and the traction control kept from excessive wheel spin while searching for traction.

Hope this helps and enjoy

I was out on mine yesterday. With the 2 stroke air filter cage an T4 it leans it out and causes it to flame out on a double into a tight 180 that’s hard on the throttle out of it. Bumped the idle up a little and it took care of it. Seems to be a common problem with the 350’s. I’m thinking about trying that redesigned fuel rail to see if it fixes the problem like they claim it does.

That ring on the fork tubes slides down with little help. Inaccurate for the most part. A legit ziptie or strong hair band is better

yeah....they fucked that up a little.

I think this is very dependent upon your riding and washing conditions. In other words, dry powdery dust may cause them to slip down easily. Mine seem to have mega stiction and barely move.

Yeah mine were very tight too, to the point I thought they may bind up the forks and not give me an accurate picture. Definitely not loose and much tighter than any zip tie I’ve ever used.

Same with the fork slider, I don’t even move it all the way up because it doesn’t move very easy without even pressure all the way around like the fork puts on it.

Might be worth hitting the slider with some contact/ brake cleaner and seeing if it gets a little tighter to make it usable. Mine is fine but i'm only at 8 hours on the bike.

My fork sliders are on there very tight and don't slide down. Granted I clean my bike/suspension with suspension cleaner after every ride . This is at 80hrs now, still very tight

Do you ride trails? If not, you should think about it. I was just up in AK, and it has some amazing terrain and the 350SXF would be a great bike for that.

Track your hours and gallons so you get an idea of how long your bike runs on a tank, then consider a bigger tank if you're doing long rides. The 250SXF and 350SXF are amazing on gas and do really well on the stock tank.

I like having sharp(er) pegs than stock (like Raptor or SRS), glue-on grips (softer on my hands) and my own bars. The OEM hand guards off a 350XCF are pretty nice for brush and roost. I do a first oil change and clean the oil screen after one to two hours to help flush the motor. As others have said, tubes or Nitro bibs (off-road) are a must.