Posts
11
Joined
5/4/2018
Location
GB
Edited Date/Time
8/23/2019 10:33am
Hi
I'm looking at the possibility of replacing the current Fox AirShox Split Reducer Bushes, or "Top Hat" bushes on the top and bottom shock mountings on my '79 Honda CR250 with spherical bearings. The idea being to get them to align better and reduce the chances of binding and wear around the shocks mountings.
Classic and Vintage Suspension (in the UK) do replacement Top and Bottom shock mounts that have had the internals re routed to stay well away from the larger (22mm) hole that are needed to use their spherical bearing, which is the same as they use on their Ohlins setup. They still run spacers inside the bearing that the 10mm diameter mount bolt goes through. This looks great, the only issue for me is the £700 plus, cost of doing this...
The existing mounts appear to have bushes that are about 17mm (its probably 5/8") and looking at them there would be practically nothing left if you took these out to 22mm.
As an alternative I've found some spherical bearings that have an outside diameter of 19mm and an inside diameter of 10mm. I'm thinking about (hopefully) enlarging the hole in the shocks from 17mm to 19mm and running the mounting bolt directly inside the spherical bearing and then just adding spacers (approx 5mm) at either side of the shock to position centrally in the frame mountings.
I'm interested in what thoughts people have on this, especially from anyone who has attempted something similar.
Regards
Mark
I'm looking at the possibility of replacing the current Fox AirShox Split Reducer Bushes, or "Top Hat" bushes on the top and bottom shock mountings on my '79 Honda CR250 with spherical bearings. The idea being to get them to align better and reduce the chances of binding and wear around the shocks mountings.
Classic and Vintage Suspension (in the UK) do replacement Top and Bottom shock mounts that have had the internals re routed to stay well away from the larger (22mm) hole that are needed to use their spherical bearing, which is the same as they use on their Ohlins setup. They still run spacers inside the bearing that the 10mm diameter mount bolt goes through. This looks great, the only issue for me is the £700 plus, cost of doing this...
The existing mounts appear to have bushes that are about 17mm (its probably 5/8") and looking at them there would be practically nothing left if you took these out to 22mm.
As an alternative I've found some spherical bearings that have an outside diameter of 19mm and an inside diameter of 10mm. I'm thinking about (hopefully) enlarging the hole in the shocks from 17mm to 19mm and running the mounting bolt directly inside the spherical bearing and then just adding spacers (approx 5mm) at either side of the shock to position centrally in the frame mountings.
I'm interested in what thoughts people have on this, especially from anyone who has attempted something similar.
Regards
Mark

Here is a fox with heim vs yours. Fox made this for Husky, because husky canted the shocks. This set-up did not have lower bladder.
I have several different bikes I race with foxs, including 79-80 cr250s. Been building them for customers 30+ years. If your trying to save 40 bucks in bushings,,its foolish. If you think it will work better,,go ahead and try. note fox has allen screw to keep heim from shifting.
Tips,,,use lock tight on 10mm bolt in top and stock bushings greased well,,do NOT torque the bolt down. I snug mine,,and check freeness by grabbing shock and twisting. Use self locking nut on bottom and once again do NOT torque it. My shox will be free and even rattle a little..if it is tight (top or bottom),they bind up and will not return on rebound fully. Also check upper slot has enough room for shraders arc,,,and check that silencer stinger isnt going to touch/damage shrader when shock is bottomed out.
https://www.mcmaster.com/spherical-ball-joints
The Shop
DeCal Works Huge Plastic Inventory of UFO and Polisport kits.
Free shipping: VITALMX
Luxon 4-Post Bar Mounts
$189.95 - $239.95
If you can't do the work yourself you're looking at a quarter of the cost of the already available parts for someone to do it. If it doesn't work you have a heap of useless parts and have to buy them anyway, then you're up to £900 for the £700 parts. And I really would not recommend putting them in a drill press and just running a larger drill through them if that is what you're planning.
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