Calling Newman

downard254
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downard254
Edited Date/Time 1/12/2019 8:40am
I'm working on an old '83 YZ 250 and I'm looking for either a set of fork books for it, or the black dust seals to cap the fork sliders.

I also have someone splitting the cases so I can get new crank seals and bearings in it, but he said he's having trouble getting the crank apart. I may need a different crank if they don't have any luck, or destroy it in the process. I've seen a couple used ones on ebay, but they are pretty rusty looking and not sure how they'd clean up. Any ideas where I should go from here?
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AHRMA361 1/9/2019 2:21pm
1/9/2019 2:21pm
I think 83-87 may all be the same. Get the OEM crank number looked up and search it.
downard254
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downard254 1/9/2019 3:21pm
1/9/2019 3:21pm
I knew the ‘83 and ‘84 were the same, and the ‘85 should also, after that I wasn’t so sure.
project racer 1/9/2019 4:33pm
1/9/2019 4:33pm
Left a 490 crank in a 30 ton press over night one time, tensed up pretty tight. Never did get that one apart on that press.
bradpr32
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bradpr32 1/9/2019 8:42pm
1/9/2019 8:42pm
downard254 wrote:
I'm working on an old '83 YZ 250 and I'm looking for either a set of fork books for it, or the black dust seals to...
I'm working on an old '83 YZ 250 and I'm looking for either a set of fork books for it, or the black dust seals to cap the fork sliders.

I also have someone splitting the cases so I can get new crank seals and bearings in it, but he said he's having trouble getting the crank apart. I may need a different crank if they don't have any luck, or destroy it in the process. I've seen a couple used ones on ebay, but they are pretty rusty looking and not sure how they'd clean up. Any ideas where I should go from here?
Hi mate , as for your crank situation . I cut the big end through with a grinder , then u end up with two crank webs / halves that are easier to manage . The remainder of the big end pin can then be pushed from the ' outside' - In ( using a suitable mandrel & receiver ) without risk of running any damaged pin through the hole in the crank and damaging it

I hope this helps u !

cheers
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downard254
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downard254 1/11/2019 4:32am
1/11/2019 4:32am Edited Date/Time 1/11/2019 4:36am
Thanks guys,

Damn Newman, I already had DC plastics on my radar for white side panels and radiator shrouds, but I never noticed they had fork boots as well. Guess I failed in my investigative abilities. I was trying to build somewhat of an ‘83 works bike look.

That’s why I was wondering about dust seals in lieu of fork boots. I’m also going to cut the shrouds to get the curved look over the stock appearance, but I’m going to need to melt a curve to the edges to gain strength in the plastic, I think I can do that with a big welding iron that I have that’s used for welding rubber together. Hopefully it won’t discolor the plastic.
markit
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markit 1/11/2019 11:12pm
1/11/2019 11:12pm
Use a heat gun.
oldsocalmxr
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oldsocalmxr 1/12/2019 8:40am
1/12/2019 8:40am
This is my '84....... the fork boots were put out by WPS a while back. Unfortunately, they no longer carry the yellow ones. I found these on ebay. Quality is decent as is the color.....not exact but good enough for a racer. I prefer the clean look of the "works type" dust boots, but the full boots are much better for racing. I got a good pair of the dust boots from "Hotfoot" for my '78 CR250 (43mm KYB's) that seem to work well. The side panels are DC. Fit and finish isn't the best, but I know of no other alternatives. You will have to shim them for a good fit. For your crank issue, I used Crank Works in Arizona for my CR250 crank. They did a fantastic job on it....balanced/trued/and welded. Tolerances were spot on.

Good luck with your ride

Mike

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