1986 Cr250 resto

Forever Black Bumper & Trim Kit (NEW Improved Formula & Larger Size) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FAYLPZK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_lslGybQDHS2MV

There's the link to what I used. There's others out there that I'm sure work also... I simply put it in a mini spray gun and shot it. It showed brush marks when I tried to apply with the brush.
It goes on thick and rough looking but dries down really slick and looks as close to new plastic as I can hope to get, and hasn't peeled off yet. I do clean the living be Jesus out of the parts first.
Hope this helps.

Been busy on the CR, went to Tennessee and picked up the roller chassis from ledger over the weekend... Can't say enough good about the bike he hooked me up with, it's got 90% of the major parts I was missing or were damaged on the original bike, guess it will be morph of the two bikes when I'm done, a true frankenbike!
I got busy and stripped the frame down so I can get it off to the sandblast shop so I can get it painted and start hanging parts!!! I have quite a collection of cleaned parts awaiting assembly. I've ordered a good chunk of the chassis parts this week so the swingarm and steering tree can go back on and it will start to look like a bike again.
I took a bit of time today and found a decent match to the original R119 paint that was under the headtube badge. it's close enough for me and quite a bit closer than the paint job the frame has now. I attached a picture of the chip, its Sherwin Williams code 94967 from a generic industrial color chip book.

Been busy on the CR, went to Tennessee and picked up the roller chassis from ledger over the weekend... Can't say enough good about the bike he hooked me up with, it's got 90% of the major parts I was missing or were damaged on the original bike, guess it will be morph of the two bikes when I'm done, a true frankenbike!
I got busy and stripped the frame down so I can get it off to the sandblast shop so I can get it painted and start hanging parts!!! I have quite a collection of cleaned parts awaiting assembly. I've ordered a good chunk of the chassis parts this week so the swingarm and steering tree can go back on and it will start to look like a bike again.
I took a bit of time today and found a decent match to the original R119 paint that was under the headtube badge. it's close enough for me and quite a bit closer than the paint job the frame has now. I attached a picture of the chip, its Sherwin Williams code 94967 from a generic industrial color chip book.

Ledger, I've made a high art out of screwing stuff up so no promises of everything going right... BTW I have your screwdriver packed up along with a little something for the bike so I can sleep better, I will make it to the post office Friday and get it going your way.
Bimotofab honestly I usually use whatever I can get my hands on at work in the form of damaged product or demo write off so it varies from job to job. I am dropping off the frame tomorrow at sandblast shop, after they are done it will get two coats of direct to metal epoxy primer then topcoated with either single stage polyurethane or base clearcoat (depends on if I have hardener for the polyurethane or not). Sometimes I use a etching primer followed with urethane sealer but I'm out so epoxy it is.. Both ways work fine but it seems that the etch/sealer offers slightly better chip resistance. Just my hillbilly observation of projects done in the past. Nothing survives rock hits and boot rub but I kinda like the used look, nothing worse than a trailer queen!
I will be getting the engine cases stripped soon and they will get epoxied and a reduced gloss polyurethane single stage applied to match the OE honda look, I had a helluva time with the husky cases trying to use rattle can engine paint. I tried a couple brands but ended up stripping it off due to it not sticking well. Lesson learned! Plus the polyurethane offers the best gas resistance.
I also got a bunch of parts in today, new fenders (UFO's look amazing!), a rear brake pedal, tecnosel seat cover, and some misc bits and bobs, all the chassis bearings are on there way so the swingarm and steering head will be ready to go back on as soon as the paints dry..
Also got a "good" damaged 86 cylinder and have a piston on the way so they can get shipped off to Langcourt for a repair and recoat, they bored the Husky cylinder and did a fantastic job on it, with superfast turnaround. While I'm shipping stuff the pipe needs to go out for repair, fingers crossed it comes back better than hoped as its a little beat, but its an FMF and I haven't stumbled across many of those. I will have to build a mid pipe to the silencer but luckily I have access to tubing, a bender and a TIG welder so surely I can whip up something trick. If it all goes sideways and looks like a hot mess I guess a new pro circuit exhaust will be the next option.

I also think I'll send the crank out for the rod replacement, normally I do my own but the Honda's are a pain so a sublet on that job won't hurt my feelings, does anyone have a preference on places to get a rod done, looking at Crankworks or Ken Oconnor, has anyone had experience with either of them good or bad? I'm a believer that a true crank is the biggest factor to a good engine and I want this thing to be a ripper!!!

Well managed to ge the pics out of order but here's the frame all sandblasted then the epoxy (gray color really close to the color of the steel funny enough) finally after two coats of polyurethane single stage.
Now I've got to try and get my eyelashes unglued from themselfs. They are the only part sticking out on me while I sprayed. Even with good airflow it makes a mess way worse than base clear, hope it pays off down the road in durability!!
Couple days to fully dry and I can get some parts hung back on!!! Can't wait!!!!

Think I'm good as I've got a plated FMF pipe and silencer that's off to be welded and straightened at fusion one pipe repair right now, and to be honest if it isn't decent after they are done I'll probably buy a pro circuit combo, 70% vanity 30% performance. But thanks for the offer!

As a update, in addition to the pipe repair I've got the cylinder off to langcout for repair and replate to std bore. The crank is at O'Conner for a new rod.
I just pulled the trigger for all the engine parts, new everything that moves in there, bearings, clutch, studs, nuts...
The Ceracoat gloss black paint showed up today and luckily I have a customer that has a oven that is able to bake it at the 300 degree temp needed... and maybe even a sales opportunity for me if they think it's cool! Pretty excited to see how it works, as the pictures look bada**

Also found an anodizing place here in indy that can hardcoat anodize the fork tubes and shock, just sent them some pics so I can get a quote and if reasonable I'll get them dropped off this week. All the parts are sitting in boxes to put the suspension back together (well as soon as the piston band for the shock comes off backorder).

I even found a Answer accu-tracx thingie. Forgot about those things! 24.00 bucks and in nice shape. Why not when I'm this deep in right. Lol.

Found a WP shock on eBay for a quasi reasonable price but I know the parts are impossible to find for some of the old WP's so I'm gonna check to see if rebuilding it's even possible... I'd really like to find a Ohlins for it though just in case anyone has one lying around...

I promise some pictures as soon as I do some stuff, just seems like all ordering and sourcing stuff so far...

So finally I put a part together! Had the bits for the carb so flipped the lever on the ratchet! Of course I'm not happy with the float (has a notch worn in it by the needle, why I didn't buy new one is beyond me, I'll never learn). Oh well added one to the next order.
Engine case is welded up so I'll pick it up tomorrow. Bit more cleaning and a sandblasting then time to try the cerakote. Got invoice for the rod replacement so guessing it will appear on the porch sometime next week so won't be long before the bottom end can be one again.

Recon the cylinder will be done soon. Lang court is pretty fast usually. I have all the cylinder parts except for one of the power valve closing springs. It looks like Honda quit using them later on so wondering if they are even needed?

Made a little more progress today. Got the plastic all fit up and the decals on the shrouds as I needed to see some progress.
Got the carb all finished and the new float installed, didn't even need a tweak as it was dead on right out of the box.

OEM Honda parts. Quite a few of the bearings in this motor are proprietary, they were pretty reasonably priced.
For my husky I just bought SKF and nachi bearings off eBay, even found the double row main bearing for way less than the husky parts places were asking but there were all common bearings.

I try to stay away from aftermarket Chinese bearings.
Thought I'd be smart on this job and bought pro x (which sells OEM supplier rods and pistons) wheel bearing kits. Their wheel bearings in the kit were el cheapo Chinese and sure enough after I installed the fronts one was rough. I ordered Nachi bearings off eBay and replaced all of them for not much more in cost and ordered Honda seals that are also reasonable. Never again!!

Yep. Partzilla is typically the cheapest and has it all in stock. Get my boat parts from them too! Big ticket items it's good to check Ron Ayres Honda also. They beat partzilla pretty good when I had to buy a new stator and flywheel for my Yamaha.
Rocky Mountain MC also has it all plus it's on my doorstep the day after I order and has a Lower min for free shipping and aftermarket parts too.
I'm sure they are wondering what the heck I'm doing as they pick my orders...

Boats.net and partszilla are one in the same. Sucks they won't combine shopping carts for my Yamaha outboard parts and moto parts. I've found the prices for crossover parts to be the same.
Must be a helluva place down in Atlanta.
Haven't done the math but recon I'm coming out close on price using RMMC after the cash rebate and the 25 dollar gift cards they send out. Plus the next day delivery is just too good!
Definitely burnt out on buying parts but on a good note fusion 1 pipe repair said they got the FMF pipe straightened and welded up, plus cleaned and buffed! Can't wait to see it! Need the cylinder back so I can prep it for paint.

http://www.boats.net/pages/about.html

Had to look it up to be sure... All part of a group called ODN. I haven't run across a price difference like that but I can imagine that there's plenty of chances for mis-pricing with that many SKU's to manage... Could also be other explanations due to location of warehouse, whatever the reason pretty sweet!
When I bought the ignition for my WR Yamaha Ron Ayers beat them all by a lot.. seems like 50-60 bucks on 500 dollar order!

My wife worked at a bicycle shop that ran multiple channels on ebay, amazon and several stand alone websites, it was a cluster keeping pricing separate and people discovering lower prices on a different channel (amazon is typically a little cheaper than ebay) and call bitchin and wanting a refund...

Agree that a few bucks adds up, I think one of my orders was over 100 items... So tempting when everything is anywhere from .30 to under 10 bucks but that total racks up quick!!! Also the chore of sorting all the parts out and figuring out what they all are, I had to develop a system of stapling bags into groups and marking with a sharpie then dividing into categories, engine, shock, pipe... Bit of work but so nice when I go to put stuff together.

The Husky was tougher in that I had to find everything at the local hardware store or the internet as far as fasteners went, I didn't want it to look like I'd bought from the hardware store though, luckily my local ACE has a massive metric selection of really nice stuff, even had the kickstand spring (close enough anyways). One bolt from fastenal was the only oddball. The honda feels like I'm cheating!

I did have to order a couple bits from Phil Denton http://phildentondirect.com/shop/ can't get over how nice the parts were and super reasonable prices, I have a couple machinists friends that I can beg a favor from but try to save that for emergencies!

Your totally welcome to the YZ pipe (it's lying in the recycle pile) but it's for a 250 not a 125.