Ignition timing effects on jetting ?

Andy86
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208
Joined
6/2/2015
Location
Lancashire GB
Been having some major issues dialing in the jetting on my 87 yz250

Constantly carbon and oil fouling new plugs within a few hours, it was running really rich and the plugs were constantly wet

Tried loads of variation's of pilots, main jets and needle clip heights all not really having much of an effect

I gave up and decided to try a different approach and looked into the ignition timing, i borrowed a friends dial gauge and it turns out the ignition timing was a little off, the stator plate was to far to the left of the flywheel mark, according to my friend too advanced ?

So we moved the stator plate a few mm to the right of the flywheel mark retarded according to him ?

Now the the plug is nice and dry but white and seems to indicate a very lean mixture, you could smell the burning when riding

The needle clip was at the top notch, to try and combat the severely rich mixture from before the timing change, so we moved the needle clip to the middle notch and now plug seems almost right off white just starting to go brown

I have moved the needle clip to the lowest notch as rich as possible 5th notch down but haven't had a chance to test it yet

Once it stops raining i will test it and if the plug seems good i will swap to 360 main jet instead of the 350 thats in there now and put the needle clip back to the 3rd notch in the middle

Just wondering if any timing and jetting experts here have any thoughts or input on this ?

Im just shocked that the timing seems to have had such a major effect on jetting

To simplify stator plate too far to the left and jetting changes had no effect on plug condition

Yet moving the stator a few mm to the right and jetting changes are now having an instant effect on plug condition

Gone from plug covered in oil and lots of exhaust spooge, to a noticeable drop in spooge and an almost perfect plug, just slightly still lean

All just from a timing change and lowering the needle clip from top to bottom

Any replies greatly appreciated guys
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mxb2
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22437
Joined
6/15/2010
Location
Bowie, MD US
10/1/2016 10:53am
Andy86 wrote:
Been having some major issues dialing in the jetting on my 87 yz250 Constantly carbon and oil fouling new plugs within a few hours, it was...
Been having some major issues dialing in the jetting on my 87 yz250

Constantly carbon and oil fouling new plugs within a few hours, it was running really rich and the plugs were constantly wet

Tried loads of variation's of pilots, main jets and needle clip heights all not really having much of an effect

I gave up and decided to try a different approach and looked into the ignition timing, i borrowed a friends dial gauge and it turns out the ignition timing was a little off, the stator plate was to far to the left of the flywheel mark, according to my friend too advanced ?

So we moved the stator plate a few mm to the right of the flywheel mark retarded according to him ?

Now the the plug is nice and dry but white and seems to indicate a very lean mixture, you could smell the burning when riding

The needle clip was at the top notch, to try and combat the severely rich mixture from before the timing change, so we moved the needle clip to the middle notch and now plug seems almost right off white just starting to go brown

I have moved the needle clip to the lowest notch as rich as possible 5th notch down but haven't had a chance to test it yet

Once it stops raining i will test it and if the plug seems good i will swap to 360 main jet instead of the 350 thats in there now and put the needle clip back to the 3rd notch in the middle

Just wondering if any timing and jetting experts here have any thoughts or input on this ?

Im just shocked that the timing seems to have had such a major effect on jetting

To simplify stator plate too far to the left and jetting changes had no effect on plug condition

Yet moving the stator a few mm to the right and jetting changes are now having an instant effect on plug condition

Gone from plug covered in oil and lots of exhaust spooge, to a noticeable drop in spooge and an almost perfect plug, just slightly still lean

All just from a timing change and lowering the needle clip from top to bottom

Any replies greatly appreciated guys
Race shop section?
Andy86
Posts
208
Joined
6/2/2015
Location
Lancashire GB
10/1/2016 10:58am
mxb2 wrote:
Race shop section?
I thought about posting it there, but just figured it would gather more attention and hopefully more replies on the main board, if its not permitted here i apologize for the inconvenience and could a mod please move it so i don't have to post it twice

Thanks for the reply though mxb2 its appreciated
mxb2
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22437
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6/15/2010
Location
Bowie, MD US
10/1/2016 11:10am
mxb2 wrote:
Race shop section?
Andy86 wrote:
I thought about posting it there, but just figured it would gather more attention and hopefully more replies on the main board, if its not permitted...
I thought about posting it there, but just figured it would gather more attention and hopefully more replies on the main board, if its not permitted here i apologize for the inconvenience and could a mod please move it so i don't have to post it twice

Thanks for the reply though mxb2 its appreciated
Post in both,haha
Andy86
Posts
208
Joined
6/2/2015
Location
Lancashire GB
10/1/2016 11:15am
mxb2 wrote:
Post in both,haha
I guess i could lol but that would be a bit cheeky, i suspose it wouldn't get pushed down as quick in the race shop

The Shop

HippieLogger
Posts
40
Joined
6/24/2016
Location
Townsend, MT US
10/1/2016 12:12pm
"White ain't right" advancing the timing as you have done has caused detonation. The white on the plug is vaporized aluminum from the top of the piston.

Set the timing and jetting to factory specifications as a starting point for tuning and make sure your running fresh gasoline of a high enough octane.

If you can't find high octane gas, consider lowering the compression ratio.

Since changing the needle height hasn't had an effect, consider a new needle? Just a guess here, maybe a leaner taper needle?

Skidaddle
Posts
1707
Joined
7/19/2016
Location
Woodland, CA US
10/1/2016 12:26pm Edited Date/Time 10/1/2016 12:29pm
Set the timing to stock and replace clutch side crank seal.
Run bike and spray soapy water or brake cleaner behind stator.

Or buy a leakdown tester.
10/1/2016 3:55pm
"White ain't right" advancing the timing as you have done has caused detonation. The white on the plug is vaporized aluminum from the top of the...
"White ain't right" advancing the timing as you have done has caused detonation. The white on the plug is vaporized aluminum from the top of the piston.

Set the timing and jetting to factory specifications as a starting point for tuning and make sure your running fresh gasoline of a high enough octane.

If you can't find high octane gas, consider lowering the compression ratio.

Since changing the needle height hasn't had an effect, consider a new needle? Just a guess here, maybe a leaner taper needle?

This is what I was thinking too.

I feel like you're chasing a problem so far outside the box that you need to go back to stock and find a baseline.

Good gas (and proper jetting) really, really helped my YZ125. I don't get any grool out of the tail anymore and it pulls hard. This is - by far - the best mod on the bike (well, with jetting changes). I run full C12 in it which is overkill. But, I'd really try stock with really good fuel and see where you are.
BobPA
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10/31/2013
Location
PA US
10/1/2016 6:57pm
Are the crank seals fresh?
hillbilly
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8/16/2006
Location
Afton, TN US
10/2/2016 5:11am
2 str are opposite of a car engine which is what is sounds like friend is going on. You made it fire sooner ,right?

I'd say the crank seal on the clutch side is really the problem,letting oil in as it fails.

Remember,the main jet is the dangerous one,you go smaller on it and risk seizing.

You can also seize with small pilot on long downhills where the throttle is closed and rpm is high starving the engine of lube and cooling fuel spray.
10/2/2016 6:05am
hillbilly wrote:
2 str are opposite of a car engine which is what is sounds like friend is going on. You made it fire sooner ,right? I'd say...
2 str are opposite of a car engine which is what is sounds like friend is going on. You made it fire sooner ,right?

I'd say the crank seal on the clutch side is really the problem,letting oil in as it fails.

Remember,the main jet is the dangerous one,you go smaller on it and risk seizing.

You can also seize with small pilot on long downhills where the throttle is closed and rpm is high starving the engine of lube and cooling fuel spray.
I always tried to keep the needle clip in the middle or below position also. Dropping the needle too far into the main jet can also make for a squeaker. Once the heat factor from advanced timing also comes into play, along with lean pilot / needle settings, well, let's just say keep a few fingers over the clutch lever at all times, and be ready.

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