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Trip gave a couple options; others exist as well is all I'm sayin'.
I am going to make an educated guess, and say, that if you were to contact Yamaha R & D, you will find that they use a different type titanium for their head pipes, than the other manufactures. Causing the unique glow.
If the bike runs, then run it.
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I said this earlier as well..... Im sure he has ridden all of them by now before making a decicion. He knows what the Yamaha will do for him and weather it will work. Besides aren't they supposed to be coming out with an entirely new model for 2010?
05 YZ450f... months ago the chain broke, and broke the engine case..... found a new used bottom end online complete, meaning cases, crank, water pump and clutch.... so i bolted my top end to it....basically my head, cylinder and piston with new rings..... started right up three kicks..feeling really good about my mechanic skills at that point...i didn't torque down the head to spec and had a water mixing with the oil...fixed that problem by reading the manual and seeing what to torque it to.....went riding just taking it easy at the track..once I felt like everything was tight, I got on it and rode for about 10 minutes of high rpm riding....got back to the trailer and noticed the head pipe glowing....never had any coolant come out of the overflow like it was getting to hot.....ran fine..never lost power....but I am kind of spooked to take it out again without knowing why the pipe was orange..... I asked a friend about it, and he said his Honda did the same thing, but he left the choke on to long.....Yeah, I don't have the brightest friends....I've never had the pipe get orange before....it has gotten hot at a race once when they held the gate for a while, coolant just ran out of the overflow.
Thanks guys for all your help!!!
Most friction of moving engine parts happen when oil is cold/at it's lowest level. If any of the below are happening could lead to overheating.
Warped or not proper torqued head.
Air leaks. Worn crank seals. Excessive spark plug gaps from long time use adds heat because requires more volts from electrode to grnd arm...Just rebuilt one due to electrode falling off; dude was lucky the piston took brunt and head was in surprisingly fair shape. Shot outta exhaust.
Use of High Compression pistons create more heat than stock. Need new cams and all valve goodies to handle the power and heat comb chamber makes.
Lack exhaust valve clearance. Need more than the intake due to heat expansion, too much lash is nearly as bad too little keeping the valve seat closer to the heated head seal area.
Oil pump line(s) and orfices have flow probs causing more heating.
Incorrect timing. Exhaust valves open just prior to piston rising on final stroke help release pressure tad early and intake opens for a moment while exhaust valve nearly shuts to allow scavenging, which allows fresh unburned gas/air to clear hot burned exhaust gas fully.
Preignition or detonation due to low grade fuel, incorrect jetting(rich-carbon build up more preignition; lean creatin' pingin' too much heat in comb chamber.)
Worn piston and or rings can rock in cylinder, create more heat, chance of shirt breakin' and crank pressure blows back oil thru breather in airbox area.
Never seen an orange glow header myself. Puzzlin' when dude said he would get the glow after startin' the bike, but not at full op temp.....Older Hondas used valves that would mess up the seat in head...have to lap head seat. Hondas easier w/unicam to get motor rebuild; little more tedious on the others with dohc. Torquin' cam(s) cappin' area properly crucial on all. Good valve springs so no valve float..blah, blah, blah......
Pit Row
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