Posts
6913
Joined
6/24/2010
Location
North Tonawanda, NY, USA
Edited Date/Time
3/15/2016 9:43am
I want to start hitting the trails . I don't want a bike that I have to keep replacing the next weak link everytime I ride it . What kind of bikes should I be looking for ? I think front and rear squishy squishy would be nice as well as hydro discs. Just those 2 options alone I'm guessing puts me in at no less then 1700ish, I realize they get expensive really quick . Thanks in advance.
Got my at the time GF a 1990's Cannondale with all new components, even brand new tires and grips. $200
Look on pinkbike.com for all the info you would ever want on mtn bikes.
The Shop
DeCal Works Huge Plastic Inventory of UFO and Polisport kits.
Luxon 4-Post Bar Mounts
$189.95 - $239.95
I ride an Intense but those can be pricey, a few good options that don't break the bank (compared to others).
https://www.norco.com/bikes/mountain/all-mountain/sight-alloy/sight-a72/
(also have a carbon model)
https://www.norco.com/bikes/mountain/trail/fluid-7/fluid-71/
pretty sweet closeouts:
http://www.jensonusa.com/Complete-Bikes/GT-Sensor-Carbon-Jenson-GX1-Bik…
http://www.jensonusa.com/Complete-Bikes/Intense-Spider-275-Foundation-B…
It's all in the components, I have that same Spider frame as above but a $6800 dollar build instead of $3k. That one is on sale for a great price but has parts that would not last for me.
http://www.vitalmx.com/forums/Moto-Related,20/Need-Mountain-Bike-Advice,1298474
really it comes down to the kind of riding. if you're jumping and dropping off stuff, get something like an Enduro or Stumpy. if you're riding mellow trails and the suspension is just a comfort/convenience factor then the Camber is a rad choice.
other than that, there are so many models from so many mfrs... i bought the mid-high grade Stumpy and it's amazing. i'll be upgrading wheels and cranks this year though.
i chose Specialized because there is a local shop by my house and i like the guys there, i wasn't really wanting to research every little difference in every bike out there, i wanted something i could get on and ride the shit out of with great quality. that's what i found in my Stumpy. good luck
my buddy told me about them and i think i will be ordering my next bike through YT.
[url]https://dirtmountainbike.com/longform/yt-capra-al1-review[/url]
I will say it is the most fun bike to ride I have ever had. It almost pedals itself. If the newer ones are that much better then that is crazy....................
Also, check out www.commencalusa.com for the same reason.
At 5'9" you'd probably land in the S to M size range. It can also depend on your proportions - for instance, I'm 6'1" but I like the L sizes over XL in most brands because my legs are shorter than those of most guys my height.
Do a Google search on how the frame for the bike you're looking at is measured (if buying online) the old Marins were measured with the shock collapsed. Now they're measured with the shock extended. So I ride a 15.5" (16") frame at 5'10"
It's a tad small. But I like it.
I'm a fan of smaller bike companies, simply because they are easier to work with should you have an issue. They really aren't more expensive than anything else, but are harder to find in bike shops since most shops are Specialized, Giant, Trek, Cannondale, Etc...
Kona, Transition, Banshee, Santa Cruz, Ibis, Pivot, etc... All great companies that make incredible bikes.
Pit Row
The plus side is, when you start buying parts that you really like, you can take them with you from bike to bike. For example, I have a bar, stem, grips, brakes, seat, seatpost, crank, pedals, and drivetrain that I've used on three different bikes now simply because it's cheaper for me. That way I just have to buy a new frame, fork, and wheels when I want a new bike, and can usually do it without losing any money... Free new bike every year!
For the most part, bike manufacturers only make frames, and then use aftermarket parts to build them into a bike to market to people. This means pretty much everything that comes on a bike is universal (or at least compatible with a ton of other frames). It also means that they will charge you more for a fancy frame, and then downgrade the specs that come on it to advertise a lower price... So just do your research on what comes on it before you buy...
Then go ride the piss out of it, regardless of what you get!
Perfect starting out bike. Change what you dont like as you get comfortable on it and on the trails. First thing i would change on it would be the wheelset. I would have a set of Industry9 hubs laced up to some better rims. The ZEE components are fine until you decide to start racing it, then you would want to go to an X series. Other than that, this has all you need for a killer price
i see too many of my friends drop $5k on a new bike then ride it 5 times because they just can never get into it. that's a lot of coin to drop on something that you may or may not really enjoy.
the other thing is my buddy bought a Specialized Camber for $1300, he liked it but he wanted to start hitting parks instead of cross-country and that bike just isn't built for that riding, so he sold it and bought a DH bike and he can't get enough. i have other friends that did the exact opposite.
i'm an all-mountain/xc type rider but i want to hit the parks from time to time, so i'm in the market for a 2nd bike that is more park friendly.
my .02
That being said, if you see yourself liking mountain biking, you'll probably have the desire to upgrade some things down the road. Wheels and suspension are the best upgrades you can make, but they are the most expensive to do... So you have two options: 1) buy a bike with nicer wheels and suspension now and upgrade drivetrain components as they wear out, or 2) buy a bike with a nicer drivetrain and upgrade wheels and suspension down the road. Option 2 will be cheaper to start, but you'll have more money into it in the long run (because you'll have to swap drivetrain components in either case).
For the most part, cassettes are all the same as far as performance, but the more expensive ones are lighter. Most aspects in the biking world revolve around shedding weight, so that's the number one reason one part is more expensive than another... You MAY get better shifting out of a nicer cassette, but with your limited experience I don't think you'll notice. A good mechanic is better than a good cassette, and if you get any drivetrain set up properly, they all work great.
Here is where I would ride during the week afterwork as it's in the middle of where everyone is located ,we have steeper trails more south in ski country that would ride on weekends as well.
http://www.mtbproject.com/trail/565265
And this is another spot.
Get something with 120mm-160mm of suspension. A bike with too much travel gets really heavy and tends to bob with every pedal stroke, making your job much tougher.
I would even think about going to a 29" wheel bike, simply because they feel a little more stable (like a motocross bike) and it's quite a bit easier to keep your momentum. You can also get away with less suspension travel on a 29er, since the wheels smooth out some of the bumps anyway.
A used Salsa Spearfish or Horsethief would be a good option...
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