Posts
11
Joined
7/30/2015
Location
Joliet, IL, USA
Edited Date/Time
7/30/2015 9:57am
2011 yz250f clutch isn't disengaging when going into gear bike will creep forward but no power ? bike will still shift gears but remains at a very low speed but RPMS will go up if on throttle ? Any answers to what is causing my bike to do this ?
Replace.
The Shop
Luxon 4-Post Bar Mounts
$189.95 - $239.95
DeCal Works Huge Plastic Inventory of UFO and Polisport kits.
Alternatively, you can get a micrometer and measure them. Yamaha has the specs in the manual and if they're below the lower limit, they definitely need replacing.
There should be free play in that arm ,if not then that has fried the clutch thru slipping and warped the plates.
If it is sounds like your cable is frayed in the housing. This would then not let the clutch fully engage and fried it.
Yes,just replace the plates and make sure there is freeplay in the arm on the engine the cable hookes to.
And replace the cable if it isnt moving freely thru the housing.
If you have more than 3 hours on the oil, drain the oil. If not, lean the bike over on the L side. (So the R side is up)
Loosen up the rear brake pads (compress the rear caliper piston) this will allow you to push the rear brake lever down far enough to get to all of the bolts on the Right side of the engine for the clutch cover... I believe there are 6 or 7 of them, pretty sure they are 8 mm. Cover should come off very easily.
Then there are 5 bolts for the pressure plate. when you lift that up, watch for a single ball bearing on the end of the clutch rod, you do not want to lose this. Then the metal and fiber clutch plates come out.
Check the clutch basket for abnormal wear or any grooves. The proper way to remove the basket is with an impact wrench. This does not have to come out if the basket is ok and you're just doing the clutch plates.
Putting the clutch plates back in, ensure you alternate between fibers and metals, and that all of the metal plates face the same direction (it's hard to see but they are different on each side), it does not matter what direction they face as long as they all face the same (unless what I've been doing for years is wrong).
Put the ball bearing back on the clutch rod, then the pressure plate and the 5 bolts with new clutch springs if the old ones don't measure up or have been so hot they turned blue.
Make sure you do the proper torque on these bolts in the right sequence... It's something like 5ft/lbs but check the manual for that... Be sure you are using an in/lb torque wrench, just multiply the ft/lb torque spec by 12 to give you the proper in/lb reading on the wrench (Ie, 5ft/lb is 60 in/lb)
Then put the cover back on, fill the bike with oil, make sure that your clutch cable pulls with zero effort, no snagging etc and then put it back on the lever. You will have to adjust your cable slack at the bar lever.
It's honestly a very simple job, takes me about 10 minutes once everything is set up.
I soak the new clutch fibers the night before I do the job typically, though I have been in a rush and let them soak for only an hour and I didn't notice a difference (I soak them in new oil, the same that you put in the bike).
I have the best luck with stock replacement Yamaha fibers and discs... I've tried others, and never liked them as much for various reasons.
Make sure the bike is clean before you do any work like this, and make sure everything stays spotless during the procedure, change gloves if you need to.
It sounds like this might be something that is over your head, if so, find someone that knows what they are doing and have them show you. However, I'm pretty much entirely self taught by using manuals, youtube etc so I will never discourage anyone from teaching themselves, it's the best way to learn.
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