2012 kx250f clutch Issue

Sounds like you have some clutch plates stuck together. You will need to tear the clutch down and free them up. You will also need to see if you have warped steel plates created from clutch over heating and slipping due to the possible use of an incorrect oil. I would also check for notches on the clutch basket.

Paw Paw

Drain all of the oil from the bike and remove the oil filter. Lay the bike on its side so the clutch cover is facing up. Take off the rear brake pedal. Remove the bolts holding the clutch cover on. Then take off the bolts that hold the clutch springs on. From here you can take off the pressure plate and pull the plates out. Look at your outer clutch basket (the hinson BILLET proof one as well as the inner clutch hub for notching. My guess is that the inner clutch hub is notched (grooved). If that is the case you will need to replace it. I would replace the springs and plates as well as the steels just for peace of mind. Just because it has a hinson basket doesnt mean it will last forever. Wrong oil, bad maintenance, etc can all lead to premature wear. If the outer hub and or inner hub are notched up you will not get rid of that creaping. The cable adjuster behind the plate does the same as the one on the perch. It just gives you more adjustment for when the perch will no longer do the job. My guess is that the cable was never properly adjusted which can also help lead to premature wear. There needs to be enough slack in the cable so that the clutch can fully disengage. A nickel worth of space between the lever and perch is a good rule of thumb. If you need to take the basket or inner hub out a impact will be your best friend. Once that is done get a gallon jug of Rotella T 15W40 (white bottle) and change the oil every ride or every other ride. Say goodbye to clutch problems as long as you are not abusive to the clutch. Clean fresh oil equals happy bike and rider! Let us know. Also get a service manual!

If that is the case, I would assume that there is a problem with the oil (possible breaking down at the over heating temperatures). I would recommend changing the oil and using an oil rated for the higher end of the operating temperature range. Maybe look into possible ways to remove the film? Also double check your coolant levels if you are having over heating problems. Gotta keep that four stroke cool.

I think the wrong oil was used. Replace the disk and use the correct oil.

You probably need to look at replacing OEM part #92200.

I am going to try and diagnose your problem, but please keep in mind I am only using the information that you have said. It is evident to me that when you pull in the clutch lever, no matter how the cable is adjusted, you aren't getting enough expansion in the clutch to keep it from grabbing or stalling. This tells me that your current 92200 washer is too thick. If you order a thinner 92200A/B/C, the overall clutch pack thickness will be reduced and you will be able to get the full amount of travel back.This should properly disengage your clutch.

I assume you have the stock 92200 right now. You can verify by measuring it - it should be 2.5mm thick. Since parts numbers 92200A/B/C are cheap, I think you should order all three because it is difficult to know what thickness you need. They are also great to have on hand as well. When you put a new set of clutch plates in, you may need to swap the washer out depending on feel.

I am about 95% certain this will be your fix. If it doesn't work, I have a couple other ideas that would be related to the push rod, ball, and holder.

Edit: After looking more closely at your clutch plates, I would agree that the plates and steels are questionable. However, I still believe the culprit is the thickness washer. Most guys don't ever change this washer as the bike ages, but this is one of the most important parts for having a good clutch on a Kawasaki.

Also, Kawasaki purposely designed these thickness washers so that the rider does not have to replace a pressure hub or clutch basket when they get a little bit of wear on them. The only point I would consider replacing the basket and hub is if you have installed the thinnest washer and you still can't get the clutch to disengage.

Thanks for that mxtech1! I never knew that myself as my current 13kx250f is the first kawi I have had in just over a decade!

Stronger springs.

any resolve in this. my 13 does the same thing. creeps in 1st with clutch pulled. cable is adjusted correctly. mxtech1 when you say washer, are you talking about the washer under the inner basket? thanks

Splinter: Pull up an online diagram of the clutch and reference the part numbers I listed above.

I did seems they use that number for a lot of things. I think I'm understanding what your saying, just wanted to make sure

did this work for anyone? 2013 kx250f with the same issues. meanwhile, I'm going to order all 3 washers and try it.

it worked!! had 1.5mm washer, and put in 1.0 mm.
smooth gears, no more jumping from idle to 1st. this is my after pic.

it worked!! had 1.5mm washer, and put in 1.0 mm.
smooth gears, no more jumping from idle to 1st. this is my after pic.

$ 2.95¢ fix and 10 minutes.