Are KTM's known for eating rear rotors/pads?

AnimalHungry
Edited Date/Time 9/7/2014 6:03pm
Never had a KTM before my 2012 250SX and this things eats rear brake pads like crazy. I swear I'm NOT a brake dragger either lol! In only 6 rides (2-3 20 min motos each time) the rear pads are shot, and after a total of about 15 rides I'm looking at a new rear rotor cos this one is pretty much toast. Oh, and I replaced the rear brake fluid 2 rides ago and it's started eating pads faster than ever now! I've never had to replace a rotor through wear (only damage).

Is this a KTM phenomenon? Or a 250SX thing? Any suggestions for pads and rotors that last better? The only thing I would say is that I LOVE the brakes on my bike and would go so far as to say they are the best stock brakes (esp the front) that I've ever used. So maybe this is just a cost of better stopping power?

Cheers
Simon
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GuyB
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GuyB 9/2/2014 8:39am
9/2/2014 8:39am
How would it be a KTM issue? They're Brembo brakes, you brake-dragger. Wink
AnimalHungry 9/2/2014 8:44am
9/2/2014 8:44am
Ha ha! I have no idea, I just ride the thing and replace bits when they fall off or wear out. And so far, as much as I love my KTM, bits seem to fall off and wear out at a somewhat alarming rate - and rear brake pads/rotors are the latest. Well, the exhaust pipe ripping itself apart is actually the latest, but that's another story...


cmunn
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cmunn 9/2/2014 8:55am
9/2/2014 8:55am
Slap a FMF exhaust on there - you will like it- Always use the OEM KTM brake pads with the heat insulator
JVT357
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JVT357 9/2/2014 8:59am
9/2/2014 8:59am
Keep
Throwing
Money

Keep
Two
Mechanics

There is a reason they are called that

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Bradford155
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Bradford155 9/2/2014 9:03am
9/2/2014 9:03am
JVT357 wrote:
Keep
Throwing
Money

Keep
Two
Mechanics

There is a reason they are called that
That should be the nickname for the sport. I've never had problems with my KTM rear rotor pads/etc on mine. I know that doesn't help you much, but hopefully someone here can.
AnimalHungry 9/2/2014 9:08am
9/2/2014 9:08am
cmunn wrote:
Slap a FMF exhaust on there - you will like it- Always use the OEM KTM brake pads with the heat insulator
Thanks. I have a Fatty pipe and a Shorty silencer coming this week. The current pads are Galfers - no idea if they have the heat insulator on them, but they've definitely worn faster than the stock pads. Never used stock pads back in the day as the aftermarket ones were always cheaper and better, but will go back to stock if it means they last longer.

Cheers
Simon

seth505
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seth505 9/2/2014 9:26am
9/2/2014 9:26am Edited Date/Time 9/2/2014 9:27am
Does it spin freely up on a stand? If so, try again up on a stand after riding for 10-20 minutes.

Mine does not have this issue ,but I have read of a few people having their rear lock up when getting hot and it just being that the rear pedal needs to be adjusted properly. Good luck

And agreed on the brake performance, these are easily the best brakes I have ever had on a bike.
nornevrder
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nornevrder 9/2/2014 9:29am
9/2/2014 9:29am
Stock pipes are known to do that at roughly 30 hrs. Never had any problems with my KTMs and I am pretty hard in my bikes. My brakes were always solid with no premature ware.
TeamGreen
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TeamGreen 9/2/2014 9:31am
9/2/2014 9:31am
Rear Brake Pedal adjusted down a bit? (Check adjusted bolt on back-side of pedal).
Olson
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Olson 9/2/2014 9:36am
9/2/2014 9:36am
I have changed my rear pads ONCE in 20 hours. Either I'm to slow or the problem is not there.
AnimalHungry 9/2/2014 9:40am
9/2/2014 9:40am
seth505 wrote:
Does it spin freely up on a stand? If so, try again up on a stand after riding for 10-20 minutes. Mine does not have this...
Does it spin freely up on a stand? If so, try again up on a stand after riding for 10-20 minutes.

Mine does not have this issue ,but I have read of a few people having their rear lock up when getting hot and it just being that the rear pedal needs to be adjusted properly. Good luck

And agreed on the brake performance, these are easily the best brakes I have ever had on a bike.
Thanks. Yeah it's spins freely when cold and when hot just after riding. I'll give it a bit more play so I need to push it further down to make it work and see if that makes a difference.

Cheers
Simon
Fearo
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Fearo 9/2/2014 9:40am
9/2/2014 9:40am
AnimalHungry wrote:
Never had a KTM before my 2012 250SX and this things eats rear brake pads like crazy. I swear I'm NOT a brake dragger either lol...
Never had a KTM before my 2012 250SX and this things eats rear brake pads like crazy. I swear I'm NOT a brake dragger either lol! In only 6 rides (2-3 20 min motos each time) the rear pads are shot, and after a total of about 15 rides I'm looking at a new rear rotor cos this one is pretty much toast. Oh, and I replaced the rear brake fluid 2 rides ago and it's started eating pads faster than ever now! I've never had to replace a rotor through wear (only damage).

Is this a KTM phenomenon? Or a 250SX thing? Any suggestions for pads and rotors that last better? The only thing I would say is that I LOVE the brakes on my bike and would go so far as to say they are the best stock brakes (esp the front) that I've ever used. So maybe this is just a cost of better stopping power?

Cheers
Simon
Sorry to say, but it is true that they eat brake pads, although I must say I am a bit of a brake dragger. The funny thing is, I had less trouble with them on my '11 150SX but I experience the same issues you have on my '13 250SX. The way I see it you have 2 options; Either keep blowing through (hopefully) cheaper pads, or buy some of the highest quality brake pads which will obviously cost more. In my opinion the 2 highest quality ones are the Braking CM46 Race pads or my favourites, the Golfdren S33 brake pads. I'd say I get about 20 rides out of mine.

Also, do yourself a favour and get a solid rotor with holes in it. Your braking will not suffer and your pads will last longer.
AnimalHungry 9/2/2014 9:41am
9/2/2014 9:41am
nornevrder wrote:
Stock pipes are known to do that at roughly 30 hrs. Never had any problems with my KTMs and I am pretty hard in my bikes...
Stock pipes are known to do that at roughly 30 hrs. Never had any problems with my KTMs and I am pretty hard in my bikes. My brakes were always solid with no premature ware.
Well that sucks then about the stock pipes being known to do that. Never had a Suzuki/KX do that back in the day. Is it all brands' stock pipes that fail like that, or just KTM?

Cheers
Simon
disbanded
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disbanded 9/2/2014 9:42am
9/2/2014 9:42am
This is why I never use brakes
paul walker
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paul walker 9/2/2014 9:48am
9/2/2014 9:48am
I am amazed how frequently I am changing rear brake pads on my son's 2014 450 FE. The OEM's were back ordered briefly so he tried a set of aftermarket ones, but they must have glazed immediately, because they didn't work well.
AnimalHungry 9/2/2014 9:49am
9/2/2014 9:49am
Fearo wrote:
Sorry to say, but it is true that they eat brake pads, although I must say I am a bit of a brake dragger. The funny...
Sorry to say, but it is true that they eat brake pads, although I must say I am a bit of a brake dragger. The funny thing is, I had less trouble with them on my '11 150SX but I experience the same issues you have on my '13 250SX. The way I see it you have 2 options; Either keep blowing through (hopefully) cheaper pads, or buy some of the highest quality brake pads which will obviously cost more. In my opinion the 2 highest quality ones are the Braking CM46 Race pads or my favourites, the Golfdren S33 brake pads. I'd say I get about 20 rides out of mine.

Also, do yourself a favour and get a solid rotor with holes in it. Your braking will not suffer and your pads will last longer.
Thanks. Never heard of Goldfren but willing to try them. Can't be any worse than stock/Galfer. Any recommendations for rotors?
Cheers
Simon
seth505
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seth505 9/2/2014 9:54am
9/2/2014 9:54am
nornevrder wrote:
Stock pipes are known to do that at roughly 30 hrs. Never had any problems with my KTMs and I am pretty hard in my bikes...
Stock pipes are known to do that at roughly 30 hrs. Never had any problems with my KTMs and I am pretty hard in my bikes. My brakes were always solid with no premature ware.
AnimalHungry wrote:
Well that sucks then about the stock pipes being known to do that. Never had a Suzuki/KX do that back in the day. Is it all...
Well that sucks then about the stock pipes being known to do that. Never had a Suzuki/KX do that back in the day. Is it all brands' stock pipes that fail like that, or just KTM?

Cheers
Simon
Just the KTM, mine cracked at 15 hours. The worst item on the entire bike!

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AnimalHungry 9/2/2014 9:59am
9/2/2014 9:59am
seth505 wrote:
Just the KTM, mine cracked at 15 hours. The worst item on the entire bike!
That's ridiculous! Can you imagine if that happened on a car? You buy a new Ford and the manifold cracks routinely after 15-30 hours - that would be a massive recall and the media would vilify them.
mjskier
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mjskier 9/2/2014 10:03am
9/2/2014 10:03am
I was told that the KTM 2 stroke pipes collapse if you look at them wrong.
So when I got my 07 300 I just installed an FMF fatty right away. I use the KTM pipe as wall decoration in my garage. Looks nice and shiny.
Never had an issue with rear pads. I did lock the rear solid once though, after "adjusting" the rear pedal. I must have missed some fine print in the manual. The rear was spinning freely after the adjustment, but I couldn't make it up the first small hill right out of camp. Apparently as soon as the fluid heated up it expanded enough to lock the rear. Opening the bleed bolt fixed that problem.
A.j._Stevens 9/2/2014 10:08am
9/2/2014 10:08am
I know Mike Lafferty uses the caliper off a 2002 KTM be cause he is a boot dragger and the caliper is bigger and doesnt heat up as much
Colo moto
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Colo moto 9/2/2014 10:16am
9/2/2014 10:16am
Yes, KTM's are prone to eating pads quicker than the other brands. They also overheat the rear brake quicker. KTM uses a 220mm rear disc and I believe all the others brands use a 240mm rear. Smaller diameter disc equals less leverage the brake has on the wheel. Less leverage means more clamping force is required to do the same work. In my opinion this is the cause of the KTM rear brake problems.

The rear brake can also lock up when it overheats. This is usually due to an improperly adjusted brake pedal, or a pedal that has the adjuster bolt area broken. I had the rear lockup at about 50mph because the little threaded area where the pedal adjuster bolt goes through had cracked allowing the pedal to drag and overheat.
Langhammx 9/2/2014 10:20am
9/2/2014 10:20am
I've put 75 hrs on my '14 EXC 500 and 65 hrs on my '14.5 FE 450 and both have more than 50% left. Then again, the 2-strokes have no engine braking..... I've never kept a bike long enough to need a new rotor. I put 200 hrs on my '09 EXC 530 and only went through 2 sets of pads on the rear and 3 on the front. Both rotors were still in good condition.
FWYT
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FWYT 9/2/2014 10:25am
9/2/2014 10:25am
Haven't had this issue in LOTS of hours on a KTM 125 and 200. And I'm kind of a dragger.
cingred
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cingred 9/2/2014 10:43am
9/2/2014 10:43am
Some will fail with constant brake dragging - the hot ticket is to add another brake spring, allowing the brake to ride higher and give more feedback to the rider.
AnimalHungry 9/2/2014 12:47pm
9/2/2014 12:47pm Edited Date/Time 9/2/2014 12:48pm
cingred wrote:
Some will fail with constant brake dragging - the hot ticket is to add another brake spring, allowing the brake to ride higher and give more...
Some will fail with constant brake dragging - the hot ticket is to add another brake spring, allowing the brake to ride higher and give more feedback to the rider.
I like that idea, thanks. Might try it after I give the pedal some more play.
Cheers
Simon
mxpappy711
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mxpappy711 9/2/2014 12:57pm
9/2/2014 12:57pm
Couple hundred hours on mine. I do drag rear brake. No problems with brakes or pipe. I run aftermarket pads with heat shield. Trail riding mostly so I am sure we are not using our brakes in the same manor.
ob
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ob 9/2/2014 1:02pm
9/2/2014 1:02pm
The better the pads work the faster they wear out. Same with any high performance brake system, car, bike, whatever. The pipes crack because they are super thin and lightweight, and because the mounts get bound up when they are tightend wrong. Stresses the thin metal, I used FMF parts. Just my two cents after riding and racing KTMs for a few years.

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