300 twostroke might be the magic number

CamP
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10/25/2013 8:59pm
CamP wrote:
I think if you really wanted parity with a 450, it would require a 350cc 2-stroke.
malachi177 wrote:
:blink: All this talk about them not reving out or having enough power etc is crazy...that IS what makes it a killer engine. It's more tractable...
Blink All this talk about them not reving out or having enough power etc is crazy...that IS what makes it a killer engine. It's more tractable and they have a shit tonne of power/torque. Rip your arms off torque!! They are more then capable of staying with a 450. I haven't ridden a TM300, but I have ridden the KTM and it has a killer engine...and the rest of the bike is awesome too. The GasGas 300 racing (Nambotin) has an even stronger engine, but too bad it's an enduro only bike. I really hope they decide to join this European 300cc MX class because as I said that engine is gold!! I haven't rode the new Beta 300 but it looks good, and has had great reviews... but again it's an enduro bike.
I had a 380 SX. It was actually 368cc and when I raced against 450's, it was a pretty even match
LoudLove
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10/26/2013 5:00pm Edited Date/Time 10/26/2013 5:03pm
Picked up an '11 300 XCW yesterday. Lug it, rev it, throw everything you got at it. 300 don't care.
LoudLove
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10/26/2013 5:04pm
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mjskier
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10/26/2013 5:48pm
Btw the power valve dolly spring is not really suppose to be adjusted. Yes it determines when the Pv starts to open but for max power there is an optimal setting. Anything more or less will be a drop in power. The PV timer is specifically set to open at a predetermined spot and the auxiliary springs just slow of speed it up from that point on. It's not meant to be a tuning device for the end user. Guys wind the thing out to flush and say it's so snappy now. Well it's snappy because you opened the PV too soon, lost bottom end power and now you get a huge surge in the middle so it feels like its stronger. Dyno graphs undeniably prove this.

Thanks CR. that's good info. I never adjusted mine but I have ridden with people who had and they were all raving on how strong their bikes was. Mine was working a lot better in the tight technical stuff. I was chalking that up to my superior riding skills, but maybe their bikes just sucked :-)

Last week in Utah:

The Shop

bvm111
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10/26/2013 7:54pm
So what's wrong with a 250 that was so good for so many decades.....Why are we all of a sudden messing with displacement again? Is it because they are "too hard to ride" compared to a 450? Are you trying to make a 2 stroke run like a 4 stroke? I guess I just don't get it, if I'm out of shape and I can't run a 125 or 250 without barfing a lung and getting army pump like concrete I actually put forth the effort to get in better shape instead of developing a new racing class and motorcycle I can compete in!

Just sayin
mynewcr250
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10/26/2013 8:19pm Edited Date/Time 10/26/2013 8:27pm
mjskier wrote:
[b]Btw the power valve dolly spring is not really suppose to be adjusted. Yes it determines when the Pv starts to open but for max power...
Btw the power valve dolly spring is not really suppose to be adjusted. Yes it determines when the Pv starts to open but for max power there is an optimal setting. Anything more or less will be a drop in power. The PV timer is specifically set to open at a predetermined spot and the auxiliary springs just slow of speed it up from that point on. It's not meant to be a tuning device for the end user. Guys wind the thing out to flush and say it's so snappy now. Well it's snappy because you opened the PV too soon, lost bottom end power and now you get a huge surge in the middle so it feels like its stronger. Dyno graphs undeniably prove this.

Thanks CR. that's good info. I never adjusted mine but I have ridden with people who had and they were all raving on how strong their bikes was. Mine was working a lot better in the tight technical stuff. I was chalking that up to my superior riding skills, but maybe their bikes just sucked :-)

Last week in Utah:

yea JD did a ton of runs and let all that info out in a PV tuning thread over at ktmtalk. one thing you have to keep in mind is KTM changed the main spring in like 2011 (or maybe it was 2010, id have to check the thread again). before they changed the main spring, the best setting WAS red spring with the dolly screw flush with the case according to JD. once they changed the main spring tension, optimal setting became the 2 or so turns it is now.

JD also confirmed that there is some leeway in adjustable and his dyno runs showed that the optimal setting on the new bikes is actually a 1/4 or so turn out from the current stock position. not every spring and engine will be exactly the same, and it seems like KTM just sets it to a predetermined setting and leaves them at that.

a dyno would be best to confirm if you need a little adjustment but my 13 runs fantastic so i see no reason to spend money on a dyno. if that is your current bike in the picture, i wouldnt hesitate to try a setting closer to flush and see what you get.

i wouldnt sell yourself short, you probably just handed out a good ol fashioned whopping Smile
mynewcr250
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10/26/2013 8:30pm Edited Date/Time 10/26/2013 8:35pm
bvm111 wrote:
So what's wrong with a 250 that was so good for so many decades.....Why are we all of a sudden messing with displacement again? Is it...
So what's wrong with a 250 that was so good for so many decades.....Why are we all of a sudden messing with displacement again? Is it because they are "too hard to ride" compared to a 450? Are you trying to make a 2 stroke run like a 4 stroke? I guess I just don't get it, if I'm out of shape and I can't run a 125 or 250 without barfing a lung and getting army pump like concrete I actually put forth the effort to get in better shape instead of developing a new racing class and motorcycle I can compete in!

Just sayin
the 300 just widens the powerband. you dont gain much peak hp, but you gain down low where it counts.

its not like the 300 just came out, its been around for quite a while too. theres a reason its so popular, it basically a 250 with more bottom end making it easier to ride.

believe it or not, some people would love a more 4 stroke like powerband on their 2 stroke. you get a strong tractable poweband, but with less parts and easier to service for the average joe.

why is better distributed power with less moving parts a negative? why is having more choices a bad thing? the point is it would be awesome to retain "true" 2 strokes like the 125/250 for guys that want the full "2 stroke experience" and give guys that want a more 4 strokish type of power a 300/350.
malachi177
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10/26/2013 9:25pm
mynewcr250 wrote:
the 300 just widens the powerband. you dont gain much peak hp, but you gain down low where it counts. its not like the 300 just...
the 300 just widens the powerband. you dont gain much peak hp, but you gain down low where it counts.

its not like the 300 just came out, its been around for quite a while too. theres a reason its so popular, it basically a 250 with more bottom end making it easier to ride.

believe it or not, some people would love a more 4 stroke like powerband on their 2 stroke. you get a strong tractable poweband, but with less parts and easier to service for the average joe.

why is better distributed power with less moving parts a negative? why is having more choices a bad thing? the point is it would be awesome to retain "true" 2 strokes like the 125/250 for guys that want the full "2 stroke experience" and give guys that want a more 4 strokish type of power a 300/350.
Great post!!
Suns_PSD
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10/27/2013 10:52am
I had to shift my 300 2 stroke dramatically more often than I do a 450F. I actually counted once and it was a huge difference. Even my 314cc needs a lot more gear work although I'm hoping the additional over-rev of a Smartcarb will cure that. Try to get over the largest jumps at Chicken Licks raceway in 3rd gear on a 2 stroke, just like you can do on any modern 4 stroke, and you'll see it doesn't work well. Okay now try and come out of a slow turn in 3rd gear on your 2 stroke with authority, that's tough to make work unless you use a lot of clutch which kills your traction and therefore lap times.

It's not that the 300 isn't fast, it's just that it has a very narrow area (compared to a 450F) where it is fast.

The 2 strokes we all ride are 'tuned' meaning ports, pipes, etc are optimized for the scavenging effect which produces optimum peak hp. But the consequence of this is that in other places the powerband is even less optimal.

When I was a kid I use to ride a friends blue 1982 Suzuki streetlegal 2 stroke endure bike. and that thing ran exactly like a low power 4 stroke. Super tractable, torque, very even smooth powerband, etc...

If the manufacturers didn't have to try to make 2 strokes compete with bikes of double the displacement, they could be very 4 stroke like.

The ultimate 250 class bike would be a modern 250SX DETUNED to have peak hp in the range of a modern 250F. It would be superior in every way because it could then have a very long and smooth powerband, plus the weight and cost benefits of a 2 stroke.
Suns_PSD
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10/27/2013 10:59am
mynewcr250 wrote:
There's nothing wrong with the keihin it's just that the smart carb is self adjusting for ambient conditions and atomizes fuel much better. It's essentially a...
There's nothing wrong with the keihin it's just that the smart carb is self adjusting for ambient conditions and atomizes fuel much better. It's essentially a lectron style carb but updated so it doesn't have the "flaws".

Btw the power valve dolly spring is not really suppose to be adjusted. Yes it determines when the Pv starts to open but for max power there is an optimal setting. Anything more or less will be a drop in power. The PV timer is specifically set to open at a predetermined spot and the auxiliary springs just slow of speed it up from that point on. It's not meant to be a tuning device for the end user. Guys wind the thing out to flush and say it's so snappy now. Well it's snappy because you opened the PV too soon, lost bottom end power and now you get a huge surge in the middle so it feels like its stronger. Dyno graphs undeniably prove this.

this is from James Dean at JD jetting. you can see as the spring is turned outwards you get a drop in torque from 4500 to 7500 rpm. the blue line is optimal which is the red spring around 2 turns in (which is ~stock)



now you have the same runs but done by turning the screw IN, passed about 2 turns in. as you can see, you again lose power because the PV is held closed too long.



there IS an optimal setting and IMO you should be doing all PV tuning using the ignitions maps and aux springs only. to each their own.
Yep. I've been trying to tell people this for years but no one listens.

It's pretty obvious when you ride the bikes. If you install the hardest spring (slows PV opening) the bikes are just dogs until they then light up the rear tire violently. But some people think that this somehow 'smooths' out the powerband. What I would say is if you want your bike to be a lot slower for a trail ride, and have no intention of ever getting in to the actual powerband, then the stiff spring might work great for you. But if you want lots of smooth power for good lap times, run the softest tension PV spring.


I would love to get my bike on a dyno and try all Smartcarb setting options and PV options to create the longest smoothest powerband possible. Does anyone have a used 19" trials tire they could throw my way so I could give this a try?
The Rock
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10/27/2013 11:16pm
Street bike tire would be better than a trials tire.
DrSweden
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10/28/2013 7:08am
Suns_PSD wrote:
I had to shift my 300 2 stroke dramatically more often than I do a 450F. I actually counted once and it was a huge difference...
I had to shift my 300 2 stroke dramatically more often than I do a 450F. I actually counted once and it was a huge difference. Even my 314cc needs a lot more gear work although I'm hoping the additional over-rev of a Smartcarb will cure that. Try to get over the largest jumps at Chicken Licks raceway in 3rd gear on a 2 stroke, just like you can do on any modern 4 stroke, and you'll see it doesn't work well. Okay now try and come out of a slow turn in 3rd gear on your 2 stroke with authority, that's tough to make work unless you use a lot of clutch which kills your traction and therefore lap times.

It's not that the 300 isn't fast, it's just that it has a very narrow area (compared to a 450F) where it is fast.

The 2 strokes we all ride are 'tuned' meaning ports, pipes, etc are optimized for the scavenging effect which produces optimum peak hp. But the consequence of this is that in other places the powerband is even less optimal.

When I was a kid I use to ride a friends blue 1982 Suzuki streetlegal 2 stroke endure bike. and that thing ran exactly like a low power 4 stroke. Super tractable, torque, very even smooth powerband, etc...

If the manufacturers didn't have to try to make 2 strokes compete with bikes of double the displacement, they could be very 4 stroke like.

The ultimate 250 class bike would be a modern 250SX DETUNED to have peak hp in the range of a modern 250F. It would be superior in every way because it could then have a very long and smooth powerband, plus the weight and cost benefits of a 2 stroke.
totally agree!
mjskier
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6/24/2014 11:02am
So is the Lectron carb still the best bet if you ride at varying altitude?
I can be anywhere from 5000 to 12-13000 feet on a given day. The low end torque on my 300 (07) still pulls me out of trouble but I can tell it isn't running quite right as I go high(er)

6/24/2014 2:54pm
I got to ride the 2015 KTM 250sx yesterday. All I know is wow did that thing have some power! That was stock also so I can imagine what a pro team could do with that engine! Two strokes have tons of power. Now its just a matter of putting the power to the ground better and not having to clutch it in the turns to get that bottom power. Once they figure that out then I think its game on.
Suns_PSD
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6/26/2014 10:06am
mjskier wrote:
So is the Lectron carb still the best bet if you ride at varying altitude? I can be anywhere from 5000 to 12-13000 feet on a...
So is the Lectron carb still the best bet if you ride at varying altitude?
I can be anywhere from 5000 to 12-13000 feet on a given day. The low end torque on my 300 (07) still pulls me out of trouble but I can tell it isn't running quite right as I go high(er)

I've ran a Dick's carb, A cast SmartCarb, and now the Lectron.

Trust me, buy the Lectron. It's tits.
Tim507
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Oregon City, OR US
6/26/2014 10:49am
I have a Lectron on my 300 and love it.....I've been riding at 4 to 6 thousand and now at sea level and it runs just fine. I have the tool in my waste bag to make subtle adjustments if needed.

Also my Lectron for my KTMKX500 will be here this weekWoohoo
shanhard
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Leipzig DE
6/26/2014 11:39am
New model TC300. I want!


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