Brake pads advice

borg
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borg
Edited Date/Time 8/24/2013 7:39pm
Anybody have any advice on which type of brake pads to get. Organic non met, semi met, all ceramic. It's a light truck. I don't pull a trailer or haul heavy loads. Is 88k miles about the right time to have to replace rotors?
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biscuit1
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biscuit1 8/22/2013 8:43am
8/22/2013 8:43am
Rotors should be fine, may need turning.

As far as pads go, I'd get what ever was on it. They must be good, they got you 88K on them.

I'm assuming they were OEM?
borg
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borg 8/22/2013 8:55am
8/22/2013 8:55am
biscuit1 wrote:
Rotors should be fine, may need turning. As far as pads go, I'd get what ever was on it. They must be good, they got you...
Rotors should be fine, may need turning.

As far as pads go, I'd get what ever was on it. They must be good, they got you 88K on them.

I'm assuming they were OEM?
Rotors have to be replaced. I had them turned last time. Not enough thickness left. I also don't know what type the original pads were. I'm guessing semi metalic.
newmann
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newmann 8/22/2013 8:56am
8/22/2013 8:56am
Plan on keeping the truck? Get some from Auto Zone with a lifetime guarantee. Other than that, check prices. Sometimes the OEM parts are actually less expensive that the local parts store.
Missing_Muffs 8/22/2013 8:59am
8/22/2013 8:59am
i sat through a 2 hour seminar on breaks and walked away knowing exactly what i arlready knew. i t was basicly a 2 hour sales pitch from a company that was pushing thier product on a bunch of local shops.

how much of a break job do you want? any shop out there is going to push you to get as much work done as they can squeeze out of you. thats why they will always push the safety card on you saying you absolutly need everything done. the big push in the industry right now is break rotor and hub "matching" basicly fancy tak for turning rotors while they are on the car.
when you talk newer and higher end vehicles the tolerances are so tight that you have to do that.

so back to the original question what break pads to get.
is this a daily driver? highway driving? city driving?
normal everyday driving a semi metalic pad should be fine its always a good idea to get rotors turned if possible. just makes for a cleaner better job.

but again its all in who you are. my father in law is die hard oem parts only and even with me doing the labor it cost him $500 in parts to do front and rears on an accord. i laughed at him as i went to nappa and spent $20 on the cheapest pads they had not caring if they get worn out in 6 months cause i would gladly spend another $20 and 10 min replacing the pads.

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borg
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borg 8/22/2013 9:18am
8/22/2013 9:18am
Missing_Muffs wrote:
i sat through a 2 hour seminar on breaks and walked away knowing exactly what i arlready knew. i t was basicly a 2 hour sales...
i sat through a 2 hour seminar on breaks and walked away knowing exactly what i arlready knew. i t was basicly a 2 hour sales pitch from a company that was pushing thier product on a bunch of local shops.

how much of a break job do you want? any shop out there is going to push you to get as much work done as they can squeeze out of you. thats why they will always push the safety card on you saying you absolutly need everything done. the big push in the industry right now is break rotor and hub "matching" basicly fancy tak for turning rotors while they are on the car.
when you talk newer and higher end vehicles the tolerances are so tight that you have to do that.

so back to the original question what break pads to get.
is this a daily driver? highway driving? city driving?
normal everyday driving a semi metalic pad should be fine its always a good idea to get rotors turned if possible. just makes for a cleaner better job.

but again its all in who you are. my father in law is die hard oem parts only and even with me doing the labor it cost him $500 in parts to do front and rears on an accord. i laughed at him as i went to nappa and spent $20 on the cheapest pads they had not caring if they get worn out in 6 months cause i would gladly spend another $20 and 10 min replacing the pads.
That's kind of what I'm thinking. The non metallic pads are supposed to be quieter and not as likely to chew on the rotor as much. Especially since the rotors are new. I do it myself anyway. 10 minutes to change a pad, 20 min if you have to change the rotor. I do 90% local driving. no heavy loads or trailers.
jtomasik
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jtomasik 8/22/2013 9:21am
8/22/2013 9:21am Edited Date/Time 8/22/2013 9:22am
I go with at least semi-metallic, rotors be damned. They hold up better than the organics, especially against downhill loads (heat), and they don't vomit that dark brake dust all over my wheels.
vet323
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vet323 8/22/2013 9:48am
8/22/2013 9:48am
Ceramic pads leave less visible dust, but use OEM pads and replace the rotors.
MR. X
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MR. X 8/22/2013 10:37am
8/22/2013 10:37am
If its a chevy ,don't waste your time searching , i have always and will always drive a chevy and i have never found a combination of rotors/pads that last any longer than the rest . My 93 had 300k , no matter what , it needed rotors before inspection time every year.
Mr. G
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Mr. G 8/22/2013 11:37am
8/22/2013 11:37am
I recently bought a 1998 Chevy 3/4 and the brakes are dangerously weak. With two people aboard it is about 200lbs below GVWR but it should be better than this. Had it checked out by a mechanic and the dealer, everything OK?! My 1999 F250 could stop a train but could at any moment spit out a plug. They all have their strong/weak points.
FlickitFlat 8/22/2013 12:32pm
8/22/2013 12:32pm
MR. X wrote:
If its a chevy ,don't waste your time searching , i have always and will always drive a chevy and i have never found a combination...
If its a chevy ,don't waste your time searching , i have always and will always drive a chevy and i have never found a combination of rotors/pads that last any longer than the rest . My 93 had 300k , no matter what , it needed rotors before inspection time every year.
Silly question, Do they check your rotors every inspection? Check them for what?
Mr. G
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Mr. G 8/22/2013 2:50pm
8/22/2013 2:50pm
You know I have never had rotors turned. I figured after I hit the brakes a couple times the pads will conform, and hey I'm cheap. I have also never had to replace a rotor which seems impossible but true. Not advice, just conveyance.
FlickitFlat 8/22/2013 3:36pm
8/22/2013 3:36pm
I live in WV and travel across the mountains to Va and NC fairly often. I've changed many rotors. I have had some turned and it will take the bounce out. It will also make them heat up quicker because there is not as much metal as before. Heating up is what caused them to warp and bounce in the first place, so it really isn't a cure all. It is nearly as inexpensive to just put on new rotors. Plus, if you work on your own vehicle you can do it at your own convenience and not have to hassle with shop appointments to have them turned ect.
I have found out that if you buy lifetime pads, also buy rotors with the most warranty on them. Usually 1 or 2 year around here. Life time pads last longer because there is more metal in them. That also causes them to run hotter and also squeek. Living in the mountains, the extra heat will cause the pads to chip, which will make them ok for an exchange. It will also heat the rotors and make them bounce, or wear impressions. I hate to say it but catch them within the warranty and your good to go with a new set.
borg
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borg 8/22/2013 7:05pm
8/22/2013 7:05pm
I'm going with the ceramic pads. The semi metallics the truck came with chewed through the rotors too fast. It seems like they are the worst of both worlds. Noisy and abrasive. The non metallics leave too much brown shit on my wheels. The ceramics are like $50 a set. They sound like the best of both worlds for an extra $25. Hell, I blew twice that much playing golf today.

Thanks for all the input.
RNagy052
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RNagy052 8/22/2013 7:41pm
8/22/2013 7:41pm
I just did the brakes on my 2005 F150 a few weeks ago, went with the ceramic pads front and back, no complaints here. On the front I also replaced the rotors which came with new sealed bearings. The rear rotors were still in good shape so I just went with new pads in the rear. I also bled the brake lines and put in new brake fluid.

After I finished the brake job, I replaced the front shocks and springs, lower balls joints, tie rod ends, upper control arms and upper ball joints, and rear shocks. It would have been easier if I would have done it all while I already had the brakes undone. Oh well, as they say hindsight is 20/20.

Then took it to the tire shop and got four new tires and an alignment. Truck drives and stops like a brand new one. I just went over 188,000 miles. Think I will keep it a little while longer.
Mr. G
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Mr. G 8/22/2013 7:45pm
8/22/2013 7:45pm
Man that is a LOT to replace on a 2005.
borg
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borg 8/22/2013 7:54pm
8/22/2013 7:54pm
RNagy052 wrote:
I just did the brakes on my 2005 F150 a few weeks ago, went with the ceramic pads front and back, no complaints here. On the...
I just did the brakes on my 2005 F150 a few weeks ago, went with the ceramic pads front and back, no complaints here. On the front I also replaced the rotors which came with new sealed bearings. The rear rotors were still in good shape so I just went with new pads in the rear. I also bled the brake lines and put in new brake fluid.

After I finished the brake job, I replaced the front shocks and springs, lower balls joints, tie rod ends, upper control arms and upper ball joints, and rear shocks. It would have been easier if I would have done it all while I already had the brakes undone. Oh well, as they say hindsight is 20/20.

Then took it to the tire shop and got four new tires and an alignment. Truck drives and stops like a brand new one. I just went over 188,000 miles. Think I will keep it a little while longer.
Ho Lee Shiite! You put some miles on that 05. I almost went with the F150. I have less than half that on an 06 Tundra.
Mr. G
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Mr. G 8/22/2013 7:58pm
8/22/2013 7:58pm
I just sold an 05 F350 diesel that had 45K on it. Would have kept it if it wasn't a diesel. Sure, if given enough traction you could slow the rotation of the earth, but for how long?
RNagy052
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RNagy052 8/23/2013 5:28am
8/23/2013 5:28am
borg wrote:
Ho Lee Shiite! You put some miles on that 05. I almost went with the F150. I have less than half that on an 06 Tundra.
Most of those miles are from driving to MX tracks all over the place.

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Hman144
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Hman144 8/23/2013 11:36am
8/23/2013 11:36am
Hey Muffs,

Gimmee a "brake".

Juss sayin'
Mr. G
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Mr. G 8/24/2013 3:15pm
8/24/2013 3:15pm
"One break........coming up" David Lee Roth
KMC440
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KMC440 8/24/2013 7:39pm
8/24/2013 7:39pm
So how'd you shoot the other day Borg?

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