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Only $10 for all 2026 SX, MX, and SMX series.
xc cdi (tamer than the sx cdi)
xc low compression head
heavier flywheel
heavier crankshaft
this results in a very dull bike for MX. its purpose build with some heavier parts to slow down the engine so it hooks up rather than explode like the SX does, works good for the trails but as you experienced it doesnt hit like you like it to. also the SX jetting does not work in the XC bikes. most people lean the pilot out further, some like a different needle than the NEC/NED and the main will be different as well.
believe it or not, the porting between the SX and the XC cylinders is EXACTLY the same, the difference between the 2 bikes comes down to what i posted above. if you want to purchase the 300 kit, you MUST specify you want either the XC or the SX kit. one comes with the XC head and the other with the SX head, thats the ONLY difference in the kits. the nice part about starting with a SX is that you get all the SX motor goods like the lightened parts but you still get the 300 power in a snappy package, then you can use the spare XC cdi and your SX cdi to customize and then even more so with the PV springs. blah blah blah, long post.
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Luxon 4-Post Bar Mounts
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you can definitely get yours worked out, but me, i like a complete factory kit, i will always go with a factory kit vs having to send my stuff out to get it done. no PV mods needed, no machining the head, boring out the cylinder then sending it off to millennium. just more downtime IMO.
lots of people claim the aftermarket plating is stronger or last longer but ive never seen any proof of this, just unsubstantiated claims.
im not trying to encourage/discourage or influence your opinion, just putting my own thoughts out there.
edit: when i say i always prefer factory/oem this is in reference to engine components. i use a lot of aftermarket elsewhere.
I use Millennium for all my cylinders now, but have had good luck with U.S. Chrome in the past also. They both do excellent work. If Ron sets the port timing on the 300 cylinder the same as the 250, you will like it even better than the 250. Bigger bores tend to loose a little ability to rev out, but the extra 45cc's across the whole powerband will more than make up for a loss of a few hundred rpm's up top.
I'm not sure if you are a professional mechanic or just a very knowledgeable hobbiest, but in my opinion, it is not unsubstantiated. I have been building motors for the last ten years and have experienced issues with many OEM cylinders. Most notably Kawasaki's plating that almost peels off with your fingers. I seen multiple stock CR cylinders peel up at the exhaust bridge, all remedied by better aftermarket replating.
While KTM's tent to have very good stock plating, my experience with the 65 cylinders have shown that Millennium's plating holds up over a longer period of time with multiple rebuilds and honing. Most of the time after eating a lot of dirt from lack of proper filter maintenance.
Take it for what it's worth, but this is my opinion.
I do like to see proof though. ive read many people online make the claim of the aftermarket plating companies doing a better job than the factory, i think even millennium's website claims or at least used to claim right on the website that their plating is thicker or harder than the factory stuff.
i also remember reading about kawi's "electrofusion" plating or whatever it was, and there is a reason i have never considered owning an old 2 stroke kawi. i also have seen some cr jugs wear out at the exhaust bridge, now whether that is from inferior plating or just someone that decided to run an aftermarket forged piston with no oil holes drilled in and just overheated/damaged it, i cannot say. luckily for me, i run the old hpp motor so i do not have to deal with an exhaust bridge. our group runs 4 cr250's (my 00, and 3 01's) and neither has suffered any type of plating failure, then again neither has had to ingest any measurable amount of dirt and its possible that the aftermarket plating IS tougher especially when exposed to less than ideal filter maintenance.
not here to call anyone a liar, i respect any professional opinion, was just saying that i like to see proof to back it up as well.
How is KTM's overall bike prep especially the linkage suspension? Anything else need attention before the first ride?
I've been on Hondas for the last 15 years and learned to always tear the suspension down when new to add more good grease and otherwise make sure it was good to go.
Anybody else add the PC link as recommended by MXA?
Strictly moto for me and I've been at this for a long time, but this is my first KTM so want to make sure it's set up properly. I've read the jetting threads, so have that on my to-do list.
Thanks!
Pit Row
Also, Digger if you read this, please check your PM's.
Anyone else that has any idea when to change the piston?
KTM Parts Direct Link
Anyway I tried contacting Digger but he isn't answering, so maybe someone else can help me with this: I would really like to try the NECJ needle, but this is strictly a US part number and it is nowhere to be found in Europe. I can't exactly buy it online because most shops either will not ship something so small, or ask $50 to ship a $10 needle...
Would anyone be kind enough to buy the needle for me and ship it to Belgium? I can do Paypal or any other form of online payment. Thanks.
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