Mod Motor HELP!!

jmx281
Posts
58
Joined
12/14/2009
Location
USA
Edited Date/Time 1/22/2012 9:27pm
Ok guys while I was hurt I decided to Mod out 1 of my bikes. Its an 09 YZ250F. Went from 13:5 to 14:1 Piston, Ported and polished head and stage 2 hot cams few other little things. But, it idles fine and roll on throttle is decent (sometimes pops or back fires). If I go from full close to to full open it just shuts off completely. So I went bigger on pilot, nothing changed went bigger on main nothing changed played with fuel air screw nothing, moved the needle nothing. Am I making it to rich should I try leaner? I dont get it..

Oh also im using 110 octane

thanks
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bullpen58
Posts
4399
Joined
8/15/2006
Location
Fresno, CA, USA
8/2/2011 2:55pm
Get a KX80. No more problems.
The Rock
Posts
8758
Joined
3/21/2007
Location
HAIKU, HI, USA
8/3/2011 11:14am
For starters four strokes do not need that high of octane even with a high compression set up like yours. Not sure if you're using VP12 or not but that is a two stroke fuel.

I didn't spend last night in a Holiday Inn Express but I do know a former Yamaha factory mechanic.
Mr. Ted
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1679
Joined
5/7/2010
Location
Atoka, TN, USA
Fantasy
8/3/2011 11:32am
When we modded my wife's CRF250F, we did the same thing with the piston and cam and added a falicon rod. If I remember correctly we had to go way up on the jetting. Also you may need a fuel accelerator pump (I believe that is what it is called). And I assume the cam chain tensioner has been checked/adjusted?
mxryder231
Posts
70
Joined
6/24/2008
Location
San Marcos, CA, USA
8/3/2011 11:36am
i recommend not using the 110 octane fuel. i had good results with renegade fuel. it was the supercross mix, meaning it was not just the mx4 i think it was the sx-mx4 race fuel really stable and its gaining popularity. gieco, star racing, and rockstar makita are running it. i would try and time your acel. pump. but only go about 1/8 turns.

The Shop

8/3/2011 12:29pm
You shouldn't have to deviate from a 42 pilot, 178main.

For best results send your Carb to someone who knows what they're doing.
CamP
Posts
6826
Joined
8/16/2006
Location
Colleyville, TX, USA
8/3/2011 12:35pm
You shouldn't have to deviate from a 42 pilot, 178main.

For best results send your Carb to someone who knows what they're doing.
Yep, or get an adjustable leak jet kit. ALJ
jmx281
Posts
58
Joined
12/14/2009
Location
USA
8/3/2011 12:56pm
Thanks for the help. Im guna mess with it a little more today and if I cant figure out with my jets and new gas along with the AP adjusting then ill send it tokyo mods.

thanks again
mxtech1
Posts
1968
Joined
7/21/2011
Location
Galesburg, IL, USA
8/4/2011 7:04am
That bog from fully closed to fully open is all in your accelerator pump and leak jet. You first need to take the subframe off to remove the air filter boot so you can see the air intake side of your carb. You need to spend some time adjusting the timing of your acc. pump which can be done with the adjustment screw inside the plastic cover on the side by the throttle cable pulley. One thing to check for is that when you whack the throttle open (with the bike not running) watch the injection of fuel. You want a sharp stream that doesnt hit the back of the slide. This is where the timing comes into play. Fiddle with the adjustment screw so you can get the acc. pump to spray as soon as possible w/o hitting the slide as it comes up. Alot of people actually remove the adjustment screw and spring, drill a hole in the acc. pump lever and just safety wired the two actuating parts together so you get a direct shot as the throttle turns.

The next thing you need to do is change your leak jet. Stock yamahas come with way to rich of lean jet which allows too much fuel to return through the acc. pump diaphram. A smaller jet will restrict the amount of fuel that can re-circulate through the ass. pump diaphram, causing the injection to be a smaller, but sharper and crisper stream. I can't tell you what size leak jet to run, but i've often had to drop down anywhere from 15-30 point sizes. A good start might be around a #40 or so. The other option is to buy an aftermarket cover that has an adjustable leak jet (work very well and easier to re-jet, but not with the money in my opinion if you just have a little bit of time and patience to change jets.)

Also, you would be wise to find someone with a dyno and an exhaust sniffer and pay them for an hour's use to dial your main, pilot, and needle in. Sometimes you can chase your tail trying to jet these mod engines on the track.
Rooster
Posts
4432
Joined
4/1/2008
Location
Edmonton, CA
8/4/2011 9:42am
When I bored and ported my 450 I wound up having to go leaner to get it right.
8/4/2011 7:06pm
Change the diaphram in acc. pump, race gas is hard on the rubber.
machine
Posts
6404
Joined
1/5/2011
Location
Collettsville, NC, USA
8/4/2011 7:23pm
Did this mod on my 07 and it worked like a charm. I was frustrated and at my wits end before this.

From Thumper Talk....

This is an easy job and does wonders for getting rid of the bog that many with an FCR-MX (Only, regular FCR's use the 'Taffy Mod') experience. It can be done with the carb on the bike.

I use a #78 O-Ring (7/16" O.D. X 1/4" I.D. X 3/32" thick) from the plumbing dept. of nearly any home improvement/hardware store. Cost is about $2.00 for a box of ten, share with your pals!

1) Remove the throttle wheel cover from your FCR.
2) Work the O-Ring over the timing adjustment screw.
http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r155/WilliamLynne1/FCRO-Ring1.jpg

http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r155/WilliamLynne1/FCRO-Ring2.jpg

3) Pull the O-Ring over the black AP cam thusly.
http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r155/WilliamLynne1/FCRO-Ring3.jpg

4) Re-install the throttle wheel cover. Just that simple!

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