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Same here. for around 150 I could revalved it. Make sure you depressurize it. Use safety glasses. When you pull the shock shaft out, make sure your head is to the side or you will lose some teeth. Good luck.

So what are you doing with the bike, trails or Mx? So you've just added a 20 mm on the compression side of the mid? And now its too stiff. So taking away a 20 would put back to square one. lol! You could go into the basevalve and take out an LS shim or 2 and that will make...

ah, good point there lumpy!

vinc, What are you trying to achieve? Too soft, too stiff? If its too stiff go to the midvalve and do some work there. You call it the bypass. pull a 1 20 x .11 and test. there are several different ways to accomplish things. Mid valve is where its at IMO. If you need to stay up in stroke...

Yep, thats about right.

No, your absolutely correct. I didn't figure in the seal head. I just saw 250 not the 150. However, 130 to 150 sounds about right for a complete rebuild.

That sounds a bit steep for a rebuild, IMO. For that price you can get a revalve on that shock.

Although It can be a bit tricky, Just use common sense and you'll be fine. Depressurize the bladder. If it does not have a schrader valve, Its best to have it done for you. You have to have a needle setup. That is the most important step.. You have 150 to 175 psi in that shock bladder, that thing can...

IMO I think its very important to communicate to your suspension tuner on what you like and don't about it. LIke xnationalwrench mentioned, what application is this for? Woods or MX? Spring rates are the first thing to tune when you get a bike. Then you can accuratly test your suspension settings. I'm sure they won't revalve your suspension unless...