Project YZ465 -81 (also parts needed)

Hi, I can’t stress enough you need to get this manual if you don’t already. Clymers version has some info,, but there books are multiple models that confuses info. Nothing like factory one.

Also,,, in cases like yours,, a complete parts bike is often money well spent. Projects like these will kill you one part at a time. 
 I prefer stock ignition parts. If you go flea bay coil shopping you’ll end up with chinese parts that will not ohm the same and can screw up timing to point bike will not run properly,,, ask me how I know.  Pull off that super duper new Chinese trigger coil that has bike backfiring and popping and put on original and bam she fires up…

  Rarely does the cdi go bad… clean the plugs ends,, maybe use needle nose pliers to close them for snug fit,, 

If the stator coils are toast,, I use clean original or nos,,,last choice but good one is Custom Rewind in Alabama . Small shop that’s been doing a few of mine for 25+ years.

 Good luck

Also.... last thing you want with a 465 is screwed up timing from wrong parts....that backfire one time will ventilate another case and kicker gear.

You can have the hole in the case welded

an IT465 clutch basket will fit. as far as the helical vs straight gear goes, the 80 used one style and the 81 used the other style.

have your head modified to install a cnc made stainless steel automatic compression release. you have to build up the outside of the head with weld then machine it flat then drill and tap it. harley guys use this compression release on their high compression bikes.

the price is for 1

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Engineering-Manual-Compression-Release/dp/B000WP1SV8/ref=asc_df_B000WP1SV8?mcid=b2e95011a0d835d180cf692a6870820c&tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=693493810556&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=17087593899136088756&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9031521&hvtargid=pla-2003895610487&psc=1

https://www.ebay.com/itm/405438855694

australians are big on the oit 465;s and you can find some spare parts there.

you also should run a spacer plate between the reed valve and cylinder then get boysen dual stage reeds and run them without the reed stopper. this will smooth out the violent hit while increasing power slightly in part of the power band.

you can also machine the cylinder head dome to reduce detonation. i should have the drawing on how to do that or you can find it on the australian it465 page

you will also likely need to run a different needle to make it run cleaner and reduce detonation

i also added additional fins on my head for additional cooling but it gets to 110 degrees f here in the summer so it may not help you where you live

my bike pulls like an electric motor after i did all the mods.