Posts
3
Joined
4/1/2008
Location
USA
Edited Date/Time
1/26/2012 5:11am
My son and I are going to give the NCHSA series a try this year to do something different than mx. So my question is should I soften our suspension up for these races and adjust sagg differently. Thanx for the input.
There is a MX-Tech dealer that does a lot of good work with the NC woods too. Personally that would be my first choice b/c I don't race just in the woods, I like to do some MX here and there and MX-Tech can give me a better package for what I want.
Ivan
If all you want to do is make some adjustments, and not do any major work, here's my recommendation:
I would reduce the preload a bit in the back end, soften up the compression damping at both ends, and tighten up the rebound damping at both ends. I would also run a flywheel weight...the heaviest they make for your bike. You'll be much better off in the technical sections, and you won't stall as much.
I would reduce the preload a bit in the back end, soften up the compression damping at both ends, and tighten up the rebound damping at both ends. I would also run a flywheel weight...the heaviest they make for your bike. You'll be much better off in the technical sections, and you won't stall as much.[/quote:2s28vx59]
That should do it. The NC Harescrable series is bikes only(no quads), so a lot of it is tight. Don't even show up without hand guards.
The Shop
Luxon 4-Post Bar Mounts
$189.95 - $239.95
DeCal Works Huge Plastic Inventory of UFO and Polisport kits.
When you get the handguards, don't just get the mud guards. Get full on bark busters with the aluminum bar. If you bounce off a tree, you'll likely break the all plastic ones. Also, if it's a muddy event, MSR makes mud guards that keep everything off your hands. They're called MSR HP mudguards. They go on over your bark busters. Good luck!
Another thing is to not use those bar-clamp things that come with most handguards. Buy the Cycra triple-clamp mount brackets. The others will just turn up if you hit something. Even if you fall during the race (and you will LOL) the handlebar version will turn up and cause you trouble. The [url=http://204.56.209.7/misc/2005rm250/pipe/images/dsc06704_jpg.jpg:2dtd15v… mount version[/url:2dtd15ve] is very very sturdy when you need it the most.
http://store.cycraracing.com/frmoon.html
[img:2dtd15ve]https://fstg.motosport.com/motographics/images/products/hardparts/contr…]
It didnt take to long before peeps were telling me how "That was the gaurd" that broke their wrist as they went over the bars
because the back of your hand couldnt get away from the Solid non forgiving plastic molded part of the gaurd .
It didnt take to long before peeps were telling me how "That was the gaurd" that broke their wrist as they went over the bars
because the back of your hand couldnt get away from the Solid non forgiving plastic molded part of the gaurd .[/quote:34vbqymf]
Quick fix for that...let go of the bars.
On a more serious note, I nearly broke my wrist going over the bars with aluminum bark busters. It's a risk you have to put up with if you don't want your hands looking like hamburger after a race.
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