Posts
2065
Joined
3/29/2011
Location
Frisco, TX, USA
I picked up this Honda today for $1,400. It was advertised as a 94, but I think it is a 96. The guy said he put in a new piston and when I asked how the old one looked, he said the rings were melted to the piston. I am extremely nervous to dive into this but I do love a challenge.
If anyone is familiar with these, any and all advice is welcome. I built a 89 a couple years ago which was fun and I also had a new 99 back in the day. So looking forward to restoring this bad boy.
the carb boot to the reed block looked to be a piece of radiator hose off an automobile. that cant be good. chinese radiators, not sure if these are good or junk. and a crusty o-ring chain.
Anyone know what's up with this reed block?
gah, it's a boyesen rad valve minus the boot
The Shop
DeCal Works Huge Plastic Inventory of UFO and Polisport kits.
Free shipping: VITALMX
Luxon 4-Post Bar Mounts
$189.95 - $239.95
Good on you for bringing her back! You can still get the Rad valve boots from Boyesen if you want to use it. UFO makes excellent plastic kits or individual pieces at a really good price point. Parts availability for these bikes is very good! Look forward to see what you come up with! Good luck!
Just bought a 1995 myself and paid £1750, money in the UK seems loads more than you guys in the states.
Thanks, sandman. Your build helped motivate me. Still on the hunt for a steel yz250, but couldn't pass this one up. Plus, I have always been interested in what a 144 feels like. Considering that option for this.
It's hit or miss. All used bikes are overpriced in this economy. Good luck on your build!
I was just on UFO’s site Saturday. They’re having a huge sale on everything. I bought two sets of plastic and, a couple other items for my 250.
Throttle Jockey usually has great graphics along with seat covers.
For ti hardware, I usually use Mettec or, Race tech.
OEM hardware, I usually compare carts between Motosport and, Rocky Mountain MC. Some items are cheaper on one site than the other at times.
Jetting was an issue. I believe that was a 36 PJ carb.
A decent sea level baseline for 93 pump was, a 58 slow jet, 178 main and, a 1468 needle.
Last time a rode a CR 125 I was just out of high school so, things are a little foggy lol.
Carbon fiber reeds. Don’t go with stiffer clutch springs when time comes to replace the clutch. Try to find a Hinson clutch if possible. I’m not sure what the availability is but, like I said it’s been awhile. I had issues with clutch fade hence, the replacement.
Dubya is a good place to send your wheels if that’s on your radar.
Last tip. Don’t send your engine to Varner lol
Hope you’re doing well buddy. 👊🏼✊🏼 💨
Thank you, Chance! Hope you are good as well.
Wow! those plastics are cheap! thanks for the tip!
Yeah buddy!! I was shocked as well.
You get what you pay for, I suppose. This thing is GHETT-TOW. I don't think it has seen grease in years.
Where do I even start with the problems...
The motor: So, the clutch felt really bad, upon tear down, a clutch spring bolt backed out, ripped the head off the bolt, the washer spun around and probably pierced the case from the clutch basket gear, hence the JB Weld. Washer was intact, but chewed up. Gears look fine though. Head of the bolt didn't leave and ground down the clutch cover on the inside.
It has a new Wiseco crank and piston with only a few hours on it. Cylinder looked good, could still see the honing done.
- -
Real Axle was stripped at the nut and frozen. That was fun getting out.
Swing arm bearings trashed. Linkage arm at the frame is frozen, going to need some PB Blaster days.
Triple tree is stripped, with the nut basically just sitting on there. Only thing holding the bars on the bike were the fork fasteners. A handle bar fastener bolt was broken so only three holding the bars in place.
Car radiator hose as a carb boot.
Lots of misc bolts missing or mismatched. Hardly any bolt was tight.
This build is going to be a doozy. I might just keep an eye on part-outs to do another front-end swap like I did with my 99.
That intake hose 😂brilliant! My brother is rebuilding an RM85 for a local kid, someone used threaded rod for the rear axle….wtf is wrong with people….
Pretty much the state of all important, maintainable components I am finding. Literally everything simple is a struggle/
Swing arm actually moves again. I am a very happy camper this morning
You certainly didn't have the easiest object to start with but the development look promising. I will follow, keep up the good work! Below is my 96.
Nice bike! Where did you source your shock?
Pit Row
Thanks! I found it on ebay over 10 years ago, the demand for these bikes were lower then.
Truth! I am not going to go crazy on this. Just want something to get my 49yr old ass back out there again. I have seen a lot of vet riders going back to the ring a dings so I thought I would give it a try and rehab an old bike in the process. Just didn't expect it to be this trashed.
The struggle we can all relate to
Lots to feel good about. But this shock, man. Are there any options of putting later model shocks on these? Going to try to rebuild this, but may need replacing all together.
The issue with going past 97 is they changed several aspects of the shock. You should stay with 92-96 for CR 250 shocks. I know this since I have extra shocks past 1996. The remote reservoir is moved and the length will be an issue. There’s more because Honda switched to a aluminum frame.
Those rings can be cleaned up much better than one might think. I would absolutely rebuild what you. Basically a seal head is all you may need if the one on it was leaking. Get a Gold Valve from Racetech along with their suggestions on how to shim it. Doing that will take it well beyond stock. Or at least this what I have been told.
Thank you for the heads up. I rebuilt it. I guess I should get with a suspension shop concerning the threads on the body. I cant adjust the spring beyond that point. The ring nuts are hammered beyond belief!
The body is aluminum and those rings steel. I would try and soften the area where it binds and hope to just cut a path or reform the threads. Maybe something narrow running that valley of the threads.
I have no idea what a suspension shop would have to deal with that. Vice the body with padded jaws and a set of massive channel locks. Working the adjuster nuts slowly back and forth. Gaining a little ground each time.
More progress. The rest of assembly is on hold until I get my plastics (thanks again Chance for the hot tip on the closeout sale!). Waiting on the chain slider to get the shock and linkage bolted up. But yay, no pinched tubes! Working on designing out the graphics while I wait.
All these shocks are different lengths, its an absolute nightmare. I'm trying to get one for a 95 and a total ballache.
More progress. It started right up and sounded great, not a lot of smoke, which I am hoping the jetting is on point. It sounded a little loud and I realized I only hand tightened the nuts on the exhaust manifold, makes me a little nervous if there is anything else I missed. Here is a link to a vid:
https://x.com/bonseff/status/1716106121167995328?s=20
I need to fill the brake lines and I might terrorize the neighborhood for a minute today. It feels like a different bike from what I bought with all the bearings replaced and pivots freed up now. And not having a crunchy o-ring chain.
The color of the plastics are not at all what I was expecting, it's like this flow redish pink, which I don't mind, really like it, actually. Makes me wish I had a white tank. I am working on designing out the graphics and this color is going to be hard to match because I can't find my pantone swatch book! But I am liking the direction they are going. Lots of measurements and going to have to print them out on regular paper to check the fitment a couple times I am sure. Designing graphics is hard work!
Here is my process so far:
Looking good! That black tank reminds of this….
Those Honda of Troy bikes always looked so good.
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