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I welded the holes shut and milled to thickness needed, then drilled on correct case location
Suzuki used oversized case mount holes on all there
76-80 RM's and undersize shank diameters
resulting in loose/ worn case mount holes
So after it's sat for that long... cut it flat with 3000 grit paper. If you smell any reducers/paint while doing this let it dry another week or so then buff it with first a yellow foam pad/ compound and water. Then the black finish pad/polishes. The extra dry time helps let the paint setup for the final wet sand. Paint keeps moving for 30-60 days or so... And bondo shrinks too... Allowing things to dry is really important. And it takes more time then most think.
PPG prices are JUST nuts now adays.
Yes I always let parts sit as long as i can before finishing
The Shop
Luxon 4-Post Bar Mounts
$189.95 - $239.95
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I have been doing autobody/ painting since 1981
when I bought my first car, 1967 Chevelle, and a relative owned the Chevy dealership, body shop in
town, while going to school for machining/ millright.
The main thing to remember on the stock tanks
when new they had paper thin paint, no primer
and that is what gave the tanks the best look.
raw, cobby look, the paint should not look thick or mint gloss car show
a nice sheen that is it. You should be able to see the rolled marks on the tank seams
The same goes for polishing swingarms
fork tubes, triples, powder coating parts, it just not look right on vintage mx bikes, same with expensive plating.
I just like nailing it when you can. And a tank is so darn small relative to a whole car. When I see a tank I think... oh this is small so lets make it perfect.
But I totally get what you're saying.
fresh ppg paint
going oversize to 8 x1.25 in the vertcal mill
Setting the timing with a quality dial gauge is
important to great performance, the marks are
not close enough for me ,also repared the spring holes
new molds will be made for some of the plastic parts
and a new mold for the seat foam
made here in house
lots of nos items
i will start on the mold making this weekend
Pit Row
working on silencer repair, cylinder matched to piston
a custom machined the engine mount bushings to reduce the slop suzuki had in all the RM bolt sizes to frame holes
or .5 of 1 mm
Did not notice on the first 2 builds , clutch cover gaskets/ covers are different- and I the gasket kits
have different part numbers, so i did not have
a 78-81 gasket
now for all the part fabbing
Since the fuel caps are NLA - had to fab some up all hand made
In the pipeline to fab from scratch
Shift levers
chain tensioners
seat foam
front plates
seat base
Post a reply to: 1977 Suzuki RM80B and a 1978 Suzuki RM80C resto/mod builds