2006 ktm 85 sx

michael_Bryan
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Edited Date/Time 8/26/2022 11:14am
Hi all I need some advice on my 85 sx. I was out riding in oregon on some fast flowy trails pretty much racing my brother in-law I was wide open 3rd and 4th alot the bike felt perfect till it skidded to a stop the rear wheel had locked up it looks like the rear caliper seized some what. That's when I noticed my swing arm covered in oil from the muffler I am running 36 to 1 with maxima super m and 92 non ethanol. I did just replace my the cranks seal but it didn't look bad. The bike also when I start it cold with the choke it revs real high till I blip the throttle a few times. Any advice on where to start would be great. I'll snap a photo after work of the amount of oil on the swing arm
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Factor E
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8/2/2022 12:54am
The crank seals are known to work themselves out of the case enough to leak, this would account for you high reving.
The last 85 that I rebuilt I peened a couple small spots around the seal to prevent
it from moving.
michael_Bryan
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8/2/2022 7:52am Edited Date/Time 8/2/2022 7:53am
Factor E wrote:
The crank seals are known to work themselves out of the case enough to leak, this would account for you high reving. The last 85 that...
The crank seals are known to work themselves out of the case enough to leak, this would account for you high reving.
The last 85 that I rebuilt I peened a couple small spots around the seal to prevent
it from moving.
Would that be on the left hand side case? The right side has maybe 2 hours on new seals and I lock tighter it in place
Not-a-Fan
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8/2/2022 5:00pm
Where's the pics

The Shop

michael_Bryan
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8/2/2022 5:09pm
I know the silencer to head pipe rubber seal is toast I tried to Jerry rig it to work for the week cause I couldn't get one in time
1
Not-a-Fan
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8/2/2022 11:11pm Edited Date/Time 8/2/2022 11:18pm
[img]https://p.vitalmx.com/photos/forums/2022/08/02/562321/s1200_IMG_20220802_170350477.jpg[/img] [img]https://p.vitalmx.com/photos/forums/2022/08/02/562322/s1200_IMG_20220802_170340695.jpg[/img] [img]https://p.vitalmx.com/photos/forums/2022/08/02/562323/s1200_IMG_20220802_170334366_HDR.jpg[/img] [img]https://p.vitalmx.com/photos/forums/2022/08/02/562324/s1200_IMG_20220802_170320658_HDR.jpg[/img] [img]https://p.vitalmx.com/photos/forums/2022/08/02/562325/s1200_IMG_20220802_170258866.jpg[/img]





Great pics tbh. I wanted to see the texture and color of the oil.
1) can you pull the expansion chamber and get a pic of the piston through the exhaust port?
2) the bike ever restart once it cooled? Don't start it now but if you already tried did it work? Sound like it does if I read it right but maybe that was pre-seize.
3) can you check the coolant level please? Is it low, gone?
4) do an oil change and drain it into a ratio right or whatever and compare the oil level to whats suppose to be in there in cc. If you didn't change it or it was previous owner just see if it's low
5) how was your spooge before this? Considering the blown exhaust seal maybe its exaggerated a bit.
michael_Bryan
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8/3/2022 5:53am
[img]https://p.vitalmx.com/photos/forums/2022/08/02/562321/s1200_IMG_20220802_170350477.jpg[/img] [img]https://p.vitalmx.com/photos/forums/2022/08/02/562322/s1200_IMG_20220802_170340695.jpg[/img] [img]https://p.vitalmx.com/photos/forums/2022/08/02/562323/s1200_IMG_20220802_170334366_HDR.jpg[/img] [img]https://p.vitalmx.com/photos/forums/2022/08/02/562324/s1200_IMG_20220802_170320658_HDR.jpg[/img] [img]https://p.vitalmx.com/photos/forums/2022/08/02/562325/s1200_IMG_20220802_170258866.jpg[/img]





Not-a-Fan wrote:
Great pics tbh. I wanted to see the texture and color of the oil. 1) can you pull the expansion chamber and get a pic of...
Great pics tbh. I wanted to see the texture and color of the oil.
1) can you pull the expansion chamber and get a pic of the piston through the exhaust port?
2) the bike ever restart once it cooled? Don't start it now but if you already tried did it work? Sound like it does if I read it right but maybe that was pre-seize.
3) can you check the coolant level please? Is it low, gone?
4) do an oil change and drain it into a ratio right or whatever and compare the oil level to whats suppose to be in there in cc. If you didn't change it or it was previous owner just see if it's low
5) how was your spooge before this? Considering the blown exhaust seal maybe its exaggerated a bit.
The rear wheel seized up stopping the motor i started it up and it still seems to run perfect once I forced the wheel to roll backwards and break free I was able to ride the bike back to camp that was about 300 yard and it seemed ok. I'll pull the expansion chamber this weekend and take some pics unless I can find time earlier and as for water I'll check after work and I'll change the oil this weekend too. It's always spooged a little around the tip of the muffler but I also never ran the bike as hard as I was then. Not sure it would make a huge difference but the guy I got it from didn't say if he ran 32 to 1 or 40 and I'm not sure how to figure that out so I just went in the middle at 36
1
michael_Bryan
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8/3/2022 10:14pm
I did a new clutch maybe 3 or 4 hours ago and it's hard to tell but the coolant is full and green
Not-a-Fan
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8/4/2022 12:36pm Edited Date/Time 8/4/2022 12:39pm
Hmm, it doesn't look that bad honestly. Obviously not perfect but I was expecting more wear that what I'm seeing, its gouged but not that metal to metal transfer you can see sometimes. Coolant level looks good. I was expecting low coolant and hot running and the whole fun that follows that.

I almost think that we're being thrown off by the torn exhaust connection and it just looks worse because its an 85 and they tend to get really dirty when not rung out. I don't know how much throttle you use on flowing trails, could it be exaggerated because of low throttle input over a long ride? You dot have to change the oil you can reuse it but I would at least measure it. Up to you if you want to actually replace it but I'm always a fan of if you took it out you're already more than half way there. The right side won't cause it to go lean, that was just to see if the spooge was a combination of engine and trans oil.

The plug is kind of whitish to me. It could be that it is lean on top where you were really on it, but the spooge is kind of the old build up you've been blowing out which would help explain why thy it looks lean and rich at the same time. Can you pull the left side and see if there is oil or wetness behind the stator? Are you skilled enough to make a pressure tester (its not bad just some pvc, a gage and a bung for the exhaust. You might have a leaking left crank as stated but I'd expect more issues than just a little rev up when cold that goes away and does not return. Can you verify your jetting and float level and make sure the petcock filter in the tank is not plugged up and causing fuel delivery issues? Maybe it slow leaned out as you were on the main a lot vs normal?



michael_Bryan
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8/4/2022 12:51pm
Not-a-Fan wrote:
Hmm, it doesn't look that bad honestly. Obviously not perfect but I was expecting more wear that what I'm seeing, its gouged but not that metal...
Hmm, it doesn't look that bad honestly. Obviously not perfect but I was expecting more wear that what I'm seeing, its gouged but not that metal to metal transfer you can see sometimes. Coolant level looks good. I was expecting low coolant and hot running and the whole fun that follows that.

I almost think that we're being thrown off by the torn exhaust connection and it just looks worse because its an 85 and they tend to get really dirty when not rung out. I don't know how much throttle you use on flowing trails, could it be exaggerated because of low throttle input over a long ride? You dot have to change the oil you can reuse it but I would at least measure it. Up to you if you want to actually replace it but I'm always a fan of if you took it out you're already more than half way there. The right side won't cause it to go lean, that was just to see if the spooge was a combination of engine and trans oil.

The plug is kind of whitish to me. It could be that it is lean on top where you were really on it, but the spooge is kind of the old build up you've been blowing out which would help explain why thy it looks lean and rich at the same time. Can you pull the left side and see if there is oil or wetness behind the stator? Are you skilled enough to make a pressure tester (its not bad just some pvc, a gage and a bung for the exhaust. You might have a leaking left crank as stated but I'd expect more issues than just a little rev up when cold that goes away and does not return. Can you verify your jetting and float level and make sure the petcock filter in the tank is not plugged up and causing fuel delivery issues? Maybe it slow leaned out as you were on the main a lot vs normal?



I drained the oil forgot the pic I will grab that when I get home. And as for low throttle spooged I was pretty much pegged the entire time it was never off the band the laps time was 4.03 and I did prob 4 or 5 laps wide open. That's good the piston doesn't look to bad I was worried with the gouging. I'll pull the left side case to see what it looks like inside
Not-a-Fan
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8/4/2022 12:56pm Edited Date/Time 8/4/2022 12:56pm
Would you say you ended up putting in about the same amount of oil as you took out or was it noticeably more than what came out?
michael_Bryan
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8/4/2022 1:02pm
Not-a-Fan wrote:
Would you say you ended up putting in about the same amount of oil as you took out or was it noticeably more than what came...
Would you say you ended up putting in about the same amount of oil as you took out or was it noticeably more than what came out?
It seems about the same it looked half way grey ish thou I'll get a pic in 2 hours or so. I'm hoping the little bike is still good cause I love riding it with the kids and ripping on it me and almost all my friends have 85s for riding with the kids
Not-a-Fan
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8/4/2022 1:16pm
Not-a-Fan wrote:
Would you say you ended up putting in about the same amount of oil as you took out or was it noticeably more than what came...
Would you say you ended up putting in about the same amount of oil as you took out or was it noticeably more than what came out?
It seems about the same it looked half way grey ish thou I'll get a pic in 2 hours or so. I'm hoping the little bike...
It seems about the same it looked half way grey ish thou I'll get a pic in 2 hours or so. I'm hoping the little bike is still good cause I love riding it with the kids and ripping on it me and almost all my friends have 85s for riding with the kids
It'll definitely come out kind of grey so nothing too abnormal imo. Wereyou able to see the top of the piston or feel it to see if there is any damage to the piston crown?
Not-a-Fan
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8/4/2022 1:21pm Edited Date/Time 8/4/2022 1:21pm
Is it possible when you did the clutch that something got left behind, maybe a small nut or something that could of jammed in the transmission or somehow lodged between the clutch and cases and stopped the motor? Maybe bike didn't seize the piston but instead got something jammed elsewhere?but know it sounds dumb but I've seen it on cars. I've seen a bolt in an oil pa that didn't even belong to the car lol. Had to have the mfg field tech make that call cause we were lost on where it came from
michael_Bryan
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8/4/2022 1:25pm
Not-a-Fan wrote:
Is it possible when you did the clutch that something got left behind, maybe a small nut or something that could of jammed in the transmission...
Is it possible when you did the clutch that something got left behind, maybe a small nut or something that could of jammed in the transmission or somehow lodged between the clutch and cases and stopped the motor? Maybe bike didn't seize the piston but instead got something jammed elsewhere?but know it sounds dumb but I've seen it on cars. I've seen a bolt in an oil pa that didn't even belong to the car lol. Had to have the mfg field tech make that call cause we were lost on where it came from
I know the stoppage was from rear brakes cause once it stopped I started it back up and it ran good still I had to force to rear wheel to roll back to get it to move even right now the motor will start and run fine I was worried that with new seal it was eating trans oil. The plug looks light tan btw I'll see if I can get better pics of that shortly too
michael_Bryan
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8/4/2022 1:30pm Edited Date/Time 8/4/2022 1:31pm
Not-a-Fan wrote:
Would you say you ended up putting in about the same amount of oil as you took out or was it noticeably more than what came...
Would you say you ended up putting in about the same amount of oil as you took out or was it noticeably more than what came out?
It seems about the same it looked half way grey ish thou I'll get a pic in 2 hours or so. I'm hoping the little bike...
It seems about the same it looked half way grey ish thou I'll get a pic in 2 hours or so. I'm hoping the little bike is still good cause I love riding it with the kids and ripping on it me and almost all my friends have 85s for riding with the kids
Not-a-Fan wrote:
It'll definitely come out kind of grey so nothing too abnormal imo. Wereyou able to see the top of the piston or feel it to see...
It'll definitely come out kind of grey so nothing too abnormal imo. Wereyou able to see the top of the piston or feel it to see if there is any damage to the piston crown?
Do you have a rough idea of how long till I should be doing a top end?
FGR01
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Fantasy
8/4/2022 2:43pm
Not-a-Fan wrote:
Hmm, it doesn't look that bad honestly. Obviously not perfect but I was expecting more wear that what I'm seeing, its gouged but not that metal...
Hmm, it doesn't look that bad honestly. Obviously not perfect but I was expecting more wear that what I'm seeing, its gouged but not that metal to metal transfer you can see sometimes. Coolant level looks good. I was expecting low coolant and hot running and the whole fun that follows that.

I almost think that we're being thrown off by the torn exhaust connection and it just looks worse because its an 85 and they tend to get really dirty when not rung out. I don't know how much throttle you use on flowing trails, could it be exaggerated because of low throttle input over a long ride? You dot have to change the oil you can reuse it but I would at least measure it. Up to you if you want to actually replace it but I'm always a fan of if you took it out you're already more than half way there. The right side won't cause it to go lean, that was just to see if the spooge was a combination of engine and trans oil.

The plug is kind of whitish to me. It could be that it is lean on top where you were really on it, but the spooge is kind of the old build up you've been blowing out which would help explain why thy it looks lean and rich at the same time. Can you pull the left side and see if there is oil or wetness behind the stator? Are you skilled enough to make a pressure tester (its not bad just some pvc, a gage and a bung for the exhaust. You might have a leaking left crank as stated but I'd expect more issues than just a little rev up when cold that goes away and does not return. Can you verify your jetting and float level and make sure the petcock filter in the tank is not plugged up and causing fuel delivery issues? Maybe it slow leaned out as you were on the main a lot vs normal?



Not saying this is what is happening in this case, but just to make a point...

People always think a leaky right-side crank seal will only suck oil.. and that just ain't true. Take a look at most bikes where the oil level screw is relative to where the Primary gear and right seal are. Many times the seal is above the level of the oil and can easily suck air, oil, or either intermittently. Especially once it has sucked the oil level down even farther !

I've seen this quite a few times on YZ250's. The first indication of a leaky right seal was the bike getting super snappy from running lean.

One way to test, if you're doing a leak down test and losing pressure, put the trans vent hose into a jar of water and see if bubbles come out.
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Not-a-Fan
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8/4/2022 5:19pm Edited Date/Time 8/4/2022 5:25pm
Not-a-Fan wrote:
Hmm, it doesn't look that bad honestly. Obviously not perfect but I was expecting more wear that what I'm seeing, its gouged but not that metal...
Hmm, it doesn't look that bad honestly. Obviously not perfect but I was expecting more wear that what I'm seeing, its gouged but not that metal to metal transfer you can see sometimes. Coolant level looks good. I was expecting low coolant and hot running and the whole fun that follows that.

I almost think that we're being thrown off by the torn exhaust connection and it just looks worse because its an 85 and they tend to get really dirty when not rung out. I don't know how much throttle you use on flowing trails, could it be exaggerated because of low throttle input over a long ride? You dot have to change the oil you can reuse it but I would at least measure it. Up to you if you want to actually replace it but I'm always a fan of if you took it out you're already more than half way there. The right side won't cause it to go lean, that was just to see if the spooge was a combination of engine and trans oil.

The plug is kind of whitish to me. It could be that it is lean on top where you were really on it, but the spooge is kind of the old build up you've been blowing out which would help explain why thy it looks lean and rich at the same time. Can you pull the left side and see if there is oil or wetness behind the stator? Are you skilled enough to make a pressure tester (its not bad just some pvc, a gage and a bung for the exhaust. You might have a leaking left crank as stated but I'd expect more issues than just a little rev up when cold that goes away and does not return. Can you verify your jetting and float level and make sure the petcock filter in the tank is not plugged up and causing fuel delivery issues? Maybe it slow leaned out as you were on the main a lot vs normal?



FGR01 wrote:
Not saying this is what is happening in this case, but just to make a point... People always think a leaky right-side crank seal will only...
Not saying this is what is happening in this case, but just to make a point...

People always think a leaky right-side crank seal will only suck oil.. and that just ain't true. Take a look at most bikes where the oil level screw is relative to where the Primary gear and right seal are. Many times the seal is above the level of the oil and can easily suck air, oil, or either intermittently. Especially once it has sucked the oil level down even farther !

I've seen this quite a few times on YZ250's. The first indication of a leaky right seal was the bike getting super snappy from running lean.

One way to test, if you're doing a leak down test and losing pressure, put the trans vent hose into a jar of water and see if bubbles come out.
Thats actually a good point I didn't really think about it like that. Good idea.

That fluid looks a little odd in texture but its super easy to get fooled through a pic. I've actually never tried this on a 2 stroke and I'm not sure if it would work but it makes sense, we're you able to smell any fuel in the clutch/trans oil? On a 4 stroke would indicate bad rings but maybe its possible to have some seep through the crank seal on a 2 stroke on the down stroke and just very slow weep in there? Idk, the leak down would be best tbh lol. Would rule out a lot.

Its just nothing in your pics screams at me, I really thought it should be super obvious. Being an auto tech I tend to just pull things apart but I hate to suggest that because not everyone wants to do that, and sometimes you do all the checks and find nothing and you pissed someone off lol. Let me see if I can find my tester. Its super basic and easy to build and then pressurize with a bike pump or similar. It would definitely be nice to rule out an air leak. The 2 strokes are so sensitive to that.
michael_Bryan
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8/4/2022 5:25pm
Not-a-Fan wrote:
Hmm, it doesn't look that bad honestly. Obviously not perfect but I was expecting more wear that what I'm seeing, its gouged but not that metal...
Hmm, it doesn't look that bad honestly. Obviously not perfect but I was expecting more wear that what I'm seeing, its gouged but not that metal to metal transfer you can see sometimes. Coolant level looks good. I was expecting low coolant and hot running and the whole fun that follows that.

I almost think that we're being thrown off by the torn exhaust connection and it just looks worse because its an 85 and they tend to get really dirty when not rung out. I don't know how much throttle you use on flowing trails, could it be exaggerated because of low throttle input over a long ride? You dot have to change the oil you can reuse it but I would at least measure it. Up to you if you want to actually replace it but I'm always a fan of if you took it out you're already more than half way there. The right side won't cause it to go lean, that was just to see if the spooge was a combination of engine and trans oil.

The plug is kind of whitish to me. It could be that it is lean on top where you were really on it, but the spooge is kind of the old build up you've been blowing out which would help explain why thy it looks lean and rich at the same time. Can you pull the left side and see if there is oil or wetness behind the stator? Are you skilled enough to make a pressure tester (its not bad just some pvc, a gage and a bung for the exhaust. You might have a leaking left crank as stated but I'd expect more issues than just a little rev up when cold that goes away and does not return. Can you verify your jetting and float level and make sure the petcock filter in the tank is not plugged up and causing fuel delivery issues? Maybe it slow leaned out as you were on the main a lot vs normal?



FGR01 wrote:
Not saying this is what is happening in this case, but just to make a point... People always think a leaky right-side crank seal will only...
Not saying this is what is happening in this case, but just to make a point...

People always think a leaky right-side crank seal will only suck oil.. and that just ain't true. Take a look at most bikes where the oil level screw is relative to where the Primary gear and right seal are. Many times the seal is above the level of the oil and can easily suck air, oil, or either intermittently. Especially once it has sucked the oil level down even farther !

I've seen this quite a few times on YZ250's. The first indication of a leaky right seal was the bike getting super snappy from running lean.

One way to test, if you're doing a leak down test and losing pressure, put the trans vent hose into a jar of water and see if bubbles come out.
Not-a-Fan wrote:
Thats actually a good point I didn't really think about it like that. Good idea. That fluid looks a little odd in texture but its super...
Thats actually a good point I didn't really think about it like that. Good idea.

That fluid looks a little odd in texture but its super easy to get fooled through a pic. I've actually never tried this on a 2 stroke and I'm not sure if it would work but it makes sense, we're you able to smell any fuel in the clutch/trans oil? On a 4 stroke would indicate bad rings but maybe its possible to have some seep through the crank seal on a 2 stroke on the down stroke and just very slow weep in there? Idk, the leak down would be best tbh lol. Would rule out a lot.

Its just nothing in your pics screams at me, I really thought it should be super obvious. Being an auto tech I tend to just pull things apart but I hate to suggest that because not everyone wants to do that, and sometimes you do all the checks and find nothing and you pissed someone off lol. Let me see if I can find my tester. Its super basic and easy to build and then pressurize with a bike pump or similar. It would definitely be nice to rule out an air leak. The 2 strokes are so sensitive to that.
That would be great to see if there is any air leaks the oil didn't smell of fuel at all. It's hard to find time to disassemble the bike at all cause I have 4 kids 1 in soccer 1 in foot ball and 2 in 20 or so hours of competitive dance so week days and most Saturdays are fucked trying to do anything
1
michael_Bryan
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8/4/2022 5:27pm
Not-a-Fan wrote:
Hmm, it doesn't look that bad honestly. Obviously not perfect but I was expecting more wear that what I'm seeing, its gouged but not that metal...
Hmm, it doesn't look that bad honestly. Obviously not perfect but I was expecting more wear that what I'm seeing, its gouged but not that metal to metal transfer you can see sometimes. Coolant level looks good. I was expecting low coolant and hot running and the whole fun that follows that.

I almost think that we're being thrown off by the torn exhaust connection and it just looks worse because its an 85 and they tend to get really dirty when not rung out. I don't know how much throttle you use on flowing trails, could it be exaggerated because of low throttle input over a long ride? You dot have to change the oil you can reuse it but I would at least measure it. Up to you if you want to actually replace it but I'm always a fan of if you took it out you're already more than half way there. The right side won't cause it to go lean, that was just to see if the spooge was a combination of engine and trans oil.

The plug is kind of whitish to me. It could be that it is lean on top where you were really on it, but the spooge is kind of the old build up you've been blowing out which would help explain why thy it looks lean and rich at the same time. Can you pull the left side and see if there is oil or wetness behind the stator? Are you skilled enough to make a pressure tester (its not bad just some pvc, a gage and a bung for the exhaust. You might have a leaking left crank as stated but I'd expect more issues than just a little rev up when cold that goes away and does not return. Can you verify your jetting and float level and make sure the petcock filter in the tank is not plugged up and causing fuel delivery issues? Maybe it slow leaned out as you were on the main a lot vs normal?



FGR01 wrote:
Not saying this is what is happening in this case, but just to make a point... People always think a leaky right-side crank seal will only...
Not saying this is what is happening in this case, but just to make a point...

People always think a leaky right-side crank seal will only suck oil.. and that just ain't true. Take a look at most bikes where the oil level screw is relative to where the Primary gear and right seal are. Many times the seal is above the level of the oil and can easily suck air, oil, or either intermittently. Especially once it has sucked the oil level down even farther !

I've seen this quite a few times on YZ250's. The first indication of a leaky right seal was the bike getting super snappy from running lean.

One way to test, if you're doing a leak down test and losing pressure, put the trans vent hose into a jar of water and see if bubbles come out.
I do have a leak down tester I could give it a rip I gotta find a little time tho should be in the next few days thanks for the response
1
Not-a-Fan
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8/4/2022 5:29pm Edited Date/Time 8/4/2022 5:33pm
Here is my tester. Not much to it. Just need a bike pump that can go to 6psi, which is all of then lol. Been a long time but I think the gauge and brass is one piece you buy, then there is a threaded pvc, and then the pvc you size to your carburetor boot. Then the exhaust plug and that's it.


Not-a-Fan
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8/4/2022 5:31pm Edited Date/Time 8/4/2022 5:32pm
Not-a-Fan wrote:
Hmm, it doesn't look that bad honestly. Obviously not perfect but I was expecting more wear that what I'm seeing, its gouged but not that metal...
Hmm, it doesn't look that bad honestly. Obviously not perfect but I was expecting more wear that what I'm seeing, its gouged but not that metal to metal transfer you can see sometimes. Coolant level looks good. I was expecting low coolant and hot running and the whole fun that follows that.

I almost think that we're being thrown off by the torn exhaust connection and it just looks worse because its an 85 and they tend to get really dirty when not rung out. I don't know how much throttle you use on flowing trails, could it be exaggerated because of low throttle input over a long ride? You dot have to change the oil you can reuse it but I would at least measure it. Up to you if you want to actually replace it but I'm always a fan of if you took it out you're already more than half way there. The right side won't cause it to go lean, that was just to see if the spooge was a combination of engine and trans oil.

The plug is kind of whitish to me. It could be that it is lean on top where you were really on it, but the spooge is kind of the old build up you've been blowing out which would help explain why thy it looks lean and rich at the same time. Can you pull the left side and see if there is oil or wetness behind the stator? Are you skilled enough to make a pressure tester (its not bad just some pvc, a gage and a bung for the exhaust. You might have a leaking left crank as stated but I'd expect more issues than just a little rev up when cold that goes away and does not return. Can you verify your jetting and float level and make sure the petcock filter in the tank is not plugged up and causing fuel delivery issues? Maybe it slow leaned out as you were on the main a lot vs normal?



FGR01 wrote:
Not saying this is what is happening in this case, but just to make a point... People always think a leaky right-side crank seal will only...
Not saying this is what is happening in this case, but just to make a point...

People always think a leaky right-side crank seal will only suck oil.. and that just ain't true. Take a look at most bikes where the oil level screw is relative to where the Primary gear and right seal are. Many times the seal is above the level of the oil and can easily suck air, oil, or either intermittently. Especially once it has sucked the oil level down even farther !

I've seen this quite a few times on YZ250's. The first indication of a leaky right seal was the bike getting super snappy from running lean.

One way to test, if you're doing a leak down test and losing pressure, put the trans vent hose into a jar of water and see if bubbles come out.
I do have a leak down tester I could give it a rip I gotta find a little time tho should be in the next few...
I do have a leak down tester I could give it a rip I gotta find a little time tho should be in the next few days thanks for the response
Excellent!

Ahh man yea I hear you on the time crunch. Let us know what you find when you do.
michael_Bryan
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8/4/2022 5:31pm
Not-a-Fan wrote:
Here is my tester. Not much to it. Just need a bike pump that can go to 6psi, which is all of then lol. Been a...
Here is my tester. Not much to it. Just need a bike pump that can go to 6psi, which is all of then lol. Been a long time but I think the gauge and brass is one piece you buy, then there is a threaded pvc, and then the pvc you size to your carburetor boot. Then the exhaust plug and that's it.


Does that go in the I take or the exhaust port?
Not-a-Fan
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8/4/2022 5:43pm
The gauge assembly goes in the carb boot and then the rubber plug is for the exhaust. These are for a 250 so obviously larger than what you'll be using.
michael_Bryan
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8/5/2022 6:12am
Not-a-Fan wrote:
The gauge assembly goes in the carb boot and then the rubber plug is for the exhaust. These are for a 250 so obviously larger than...
The gauge assembly goes in the carb boot and then the rubber plug is for the exhaust. These are for a 250 so obviously larger than what you'll be using.
Awesome I have to go to the hardware store today I think so I'll grab that set up thanks
michael_Bryan
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8/26/2022 11:14am
Ok so sorry for the way late response but I'm back at working on the 85 I was stuck doing a motor swap on a boat. My main jet is a 118 and my pilot is a 45 my needle was in the middle I went to get the stuff to test the crank case and got all the wrong size stuff so I'll have to redo that later

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