2018 KX250F dies at low RPM

Edited Date/Time 7/31/2020 6:09pm
My KX250F has developed a condition where it dies unless being ridden aggressively.

When you let off the throttle it feels like there is no spark or fuel as it idles down, RPM's just fall down to a stall with the clutch pulled in and coasting.

Starts perfect when cold, idles and runs fine for 3 minutes or so. As soon as it gets warm it starts its issue.

Did a trail ride yesterday and made it 20 miles running like this(high rpm)

At this point I am thinking Spark Plug (looks good but will replace) and coil.

I have considered TPS and Air temp sensor.

On the trail ride yesterday in one section where I was headed down a steep hill it died at the top and came alive at the bottom where it flattened out..very odd. I think the tip over sensor is fine and this was a fluke.


Any other ideas? Id love to race this coming weekend so that gives me one shot at getting parts ordered.

Thanks!!




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Paw Paw
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7/26/2020 1:46pm
Look at the fuel delivery system....IE: Fuel pump, fuel filter and TPS setting as well as idle setting.

Paw Paw
theDogger
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Coeur D Alene, ID US
7/26/2020 6:15pm Edited Date/Time 7/26/2020 6:16pm
I bet you that it is the vehicle down sensor I had the same issue....I framed the bike and first Fi I owned and I mounted the vehicle down sensor in the wrong orientation

https://thumpertalk.com/forums/topic/1274436-2014-kx450f-bog-and-hesita…


My post on TT:
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

Bought a used 2014 KX450f in great shape, was vet owned with less than 20hrs on it.

Full disclaimer this is my first DFI bike (if this was a carb bike we would not be talking) and I am lost in troubleshooting this issue and hope to get some others to help lead me down many rabbit holes

Symptoms:
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
1- Bike starts cold or hot with out issue

2- Idles for about 10 secs and then starts to hesitate/blubbers and then dies

3- Starts right back up and repeats steps 1-2

4- If I can keep it running and start to ride everything seems fine but slowing down and having to start from low idle it blubbers and pops and I have to work the clutch and get the RPM's up to keep it running

5- this all seems to happen at 1/4" or less

6- Slowly rolling the throttle on up to 1/4 throttle is where it seems to be happening. Past a 1/4" throttle it is fine. Let the idle drop down and it hesitates/blubbers and dies

7- If I can keep it running after it hesitates/blubbers it will hit hard and will be fine if I stay on the throttle

++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

- Running Chevron 93 gas
- New Plug and gap set
- Air Filter is clean and fresh
- No engine mods
- PC Ti-6 Full exhaust
- Black Coupler (I have tried swapping out for the other two and same issue)


UPDATED with poss Resolution?
++++++++++++++++++
What has been done:
------------------------------
- New Fuel pump Filter (Quantum)
- Cleaned Injector
- TPS Measured: .52v
- TPS Adjusted: .60v
So now rolling the throttle on the range is 0.60v ~ 3.68v

- Test with all 3 couplers
- Adjusted Valves to spec. ( we on the loose side)
- TwinAir Tank filter
- Fresh Gas93 noneth,

Damn!!!!Still at square one.
- Bike fires cold or warm without issue.
- Idols strong for a minute then the issue starts again.
- At idol anything from 0 to 1/4 throttle blubbers but once past 1/4 throttle everything is fine I take it out on the street and start to roll the throttle on and its fine then it acts like it is starving for fuel and about dies and then it hits and starts to pull hard.

As I come to a stop the idol starts to hunt and then dies. Starts right back up and idol good for about 30 sec and then starts to hunt and then dies.

*******Well I think that I have found the problem. I have to wait and test though as I am waiting for a Pro Circuit Backfire Screen Eliminator Kit.

So what I found was that when I put the harness back and mounted everything that the vehicle down sensor bracket was mounted incorrectly. (Backwards) Instead of facing out to the left side of the bike was mounted facing to the right side

The 2- marks on opposing side showing UPPPER with the arrow were actually at the 12 and 6 position. Reviewed the service manual and mounted the bracket correctly and this moved the sensor back above the CDI and now the 2-UPPER marks are at 3 and 9 with the arrow pointing to 12 o'clock in stead of 9 o'clock.

2
Paw Paw
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Benton, LA US
7/26/2020 7:46pm
From what you have stated above....
You are not getting full range of the TPS. It should be from about .5 volt at fully closed position to about 5 volts at WOT. There seems to be an issue there. I suggest setting it at .62 at fully closed position and then retesting the WOT voltage to see if it gets better.

Fuel pressure could be low.

A faulty or dirty injector could also be an issue.

Paw Paw
1
7/27/2020 4:27am
Paw Paw wrote:
From what you have stated above.... You are not getting full range of the TPS. It should be from about .5 volt at fully closed position...
From what you have stated above....
You are not getting full range of the TPS. It should be from about .5 volt at fully closed position to about 5 volts at WOT. There seems to be an issue there. I suggest setting it at .62 at fully closed position and then retesting the WOT voltage to see if it gets better.

Fuel pressure could be low.

A faulty or dirty injector could also be an issue.

Paw Paw
I am learning about this TPS.

If it works when its cold wouldn't it work when its warm? Sensors are typically a work/dont work in my limited experience.

Would buying an new sensor be a better idea?

The Shop

Paw Paw
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7/27/2020 1:58pm
Not really.. The voltage change in the TPS must be smooth and if erratic it is not working correctly. The voltage change alters the fuel delivery quantity to the engine based on that voltage. 5volts delivers max fuel while .5 volts delivers the least amount. With in that range the fuel delivery is altered by the voltage and if erratic so will be the delivery. You can test the TPS voltage for this smooth delivery to see if it is bad or erratic. I am not 100% sure that the TPS is the issue here, but it could be.
I really thing it is a fuel pump/pressure issue, but I may be wrong as well. I have seen new pumps be bad . The fuel pressure and fuel delivery need to be checked all the way from the pump through the injector.

Paw Paw
pCp 252
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Hampden, MA US
7/27/2020 2:14pm
among other bikes, I've owned (3) 2015 KX250F, (2) 2017 KX250F and one 2020 KX250F. On each one of them, I adjusted TPS so at closed throttle it read .62v. None of them reached 5v at wide open throttle, they were all in the 3.6v range as the OP said. They all ran great.

I questioned this last time I read your post about the subject a year or so ago, but don't remember reading your reply (Paw).

In my experience on KX250F's, at wide open throttle the TPS value should be around 3.6v.
Paw Paw
Posts
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Location
Benton, LA US
7/28/2020 1:28pm
pCp 252 wrote:
among other bikes, I've owned (3) 2015 KX250F, (2) 2017 KX250F and one 2020 KX250F. On each one of them, I adjusted TPS so at closed...
among other bikes, I've owned (3) 2015 KX250F, (2) 2017 KX250F and one 2020 KX250F. On each one of them, I adjusted TPS so at closed throttle it read .62v. None of them reached 5v at wide open throttle, they were all in the 3.6v range as the OP said. They all ran great.

I questioned this last time I read your post about the subject a year or so ago, but don't remember reading your reply (Paw).

In my experience on KX250F's, at wide open throttle the TPS value should be around 3.6v.
I don't recall that, but all TPS units are to have an operating range as stated above. If you don't get to the 4.5-5 volt range at WOT you are not getting full use of the TPS range. I know that some manuals call for the reading you have stated as being ok, but I still disagree due to my experiences. Remember that the factory set this as lean as possible for emitions. I have found that a .62 voltage at closed throttle works better than the manual stated .5 volts.
What are you using to produce the 5volt testing power?
Have to tried to adjust the top end voltage to see what you get at closed throttle?
Remember that all the TPS does is supply voltage to the computer so the fuel supply will be correct for the throttle opening. It is nothing more than a potentiometer.
Like I said, this may not be the issue and I am only offering help for what ever it is worth.

Paw Paw
7/28/2020 6:00pm
Well I decided to test the TPS and found the plug full of gunk. Cleaned it and several other plugs with electrical cleaner. I had no idea the kawi plugs did such a poor job at keeping dirt out. Very possible this was contributing to my problem.

Before I cleaned the plugs I rode the bike around the yard for 6 minutes before it started dyeing when letting off the throttle. Seems the fuel system is delivering plenty of fuel at slow speeds and fast speeds until the bike gets hot. I will give it another test tomorrow.


Exactly how do I test the TPS sensor? I tried using my Fluke multimeter but couldn't get any value from the three pins in the male pins in the plug. I do not have the manual to the bike either. Thank you for all the help, I greatly appreciate it.



1
7/31/2020 6:09pm
Rode the bike for 15 min and it was 100% perfect. Going to race it tomorrow night and see what happens.

To anyone in the future: Clean your connections!!!!!!!!
pricey85
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AU
2/17/2021 3:47am
I’ve got a kx250f 2019 with the exact same symptoms, I’ve tried many things to rectify the issue, after reading this post I disconnected the connection to find the exact same dirt build up, cleaned out with contact cleaner and hey bobs your uncle!!! Thanks guys 👍
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