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The food: I was in love with persian food long before but what we got to eat there almost brought tears to my eyes. All kinds of kebap, fesenjuhn, ghorme sabzie, Ghameh and the usual bits and pieces like salads, mast o khiar and so on. all these dishes every day on one table!! A dinner like that takes easily 2 days of preparation for the cook and his assistants. And they were super happy when they realized that you really like it. When we arrived at the train station the day we had to leave, much to our surprise there were like 50 people waiting for us to say good bye and everybody had a little present for us. Man that was overwhelming.
We then headed south to Isfahan to check out some historical buildings and stuff like that and that city (population 4 million) was total mellow, kind friendly and relaxed. People were interested in why we are there, wanted to make some selfies with us and I never ever felt any kind of unsafe. When some guy on a bazar walked like 3 steps beside you to draw attention to his stuff somebody behind us yelled at him and the guy apologized for his obtrusivness.
Man, I experienced so much there I don't know what to tell first
As for the political situation, to understand you have to know what happend there back in the 50s with the UK and the US involvement in oil affairs and that's the sad part. Iranians suffer from the mullah regime and the economic embargo. The people revolt against the regime on a small scale to avoid the draconian punishments the mullahs are known for but basically Iran becomes more and more a pretty secular state. Even though the Islam is a state religion, not that many people live it in their private lives. The government builds pompous mosques in every town but people barely go there. Most of the people I met were pretty educated with a university degree but they all have problems to find a proper job. Big companies are not allowed to settle there due to the economic embargo and that keeps the people down and makes the regime even more powerful.
Tehran art museum (the collection of the shahs wife - great one)
our host in Tehran
weekly market in Behshar
hiking in the hills
famous bridge in isfahan
our little daughter was a superstar
famous square in Isfahan (2nd largest in the world)
Conversely, Sunhouse's pictures and write-up of his travel to North Korea was as imagined. No plans to visit that one.
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Is it unnerving when random strangers are so friendly toward you like that? I think that would sketch me out at first in a foreign land, like they had ulterior motives and I was being set up somehow.
Which airline did you fly?
I'm thinking Lebanon and Syria (Damascus) next. A couple of Swedes I met i Pyongyang wanted me to join them in Damascus last week, but I couldn't get time off of work after Iran. Damascus seems very interesting and relatively safe with enough research, planning and guidance. You just need to be smart about staying out of rebel reach
The forests reminded me a little of appalachia. The humid climate just make it jungle like and there are some cool waterfalls, riverbeds and viewpoints to stop and have a picnic. The Irianians I met like to hike in larger groups and they even carry carpets and tons of food on the mountain just to have a cool picnic on top. Iranians in general love to have a good picnic.
I met some people from Bam in the south of the country and they told me that there are a lot of specialtys too there. It's a kind of a economic zone with less regulations, so life seems to even more "western" there. But it can be very hot down there. The younger generation in Tehran usually leave the city to have a party. On the country site there are almost no controls by the morals enforcers so that's why they go there. It is all "private" but you know, you'll be in on it
edit: flight was with alitalia from Düsseldorf via rome. Nothing special...
Personally I don't do drugs, but a beer and some Persian women would be nice...
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Thanks for sharing
Pit Row
In the valley of the kings, we were at free reign. They had "guards" to make sure you weren't taking pictures or being disrespectful, but we'd tip them 50 Egyptian pounds (about $2.50) and they'd take the pictures for us haha.
I'd definitely recommend going if you get the chance. Walking into 6000 year old tombs is quite amazing.
Post a reply to: I'm going to Iran (updated)