Suspension Advice

It is recommended to get springs both ends to match your weight and setup needs. If you do just one end you could potentially make things worse on the end you don't change.

Springs are an easy drop in, and many riders are happy with just proper spring rates. A revalve will be better, but how much depends on how good or bad the bike is stock. If you're on a budget, I'd go with springs first and ride it. If you still desire more performance, then look into a revalve.

Finally, if you do go for a revalve it is important to know that not all revalve are created equally. Each tuner will have different setups, theories, parts, processes, etc. Do your research ahead of time!

Hopefully that helps a bit. Feel free to contact me at chris@racetech.com if you have any other questions. Also, if you need help selecting spring rates, there is a free online spring rate calculator at racetech.com, and if you decide to order anything I'd love for you to choose Race Tech. Be sure to mention VitalMX when ordering to get the Vital discount.

Riesenberg is right about revalves and doing your research. Go with a tuner who has a good reputation. Suspension tuning isn't a merchandise business, they are a customer service business. So pick a company who has good customer service and will stand behind their work.

If you bought a used bike, you should at least change the oil and get the right springs. Suspension oil degrades over time and a lot of people never change it. I try to stay in the 20 hours range, but I do my own services.

It sounds like this doesn't apply to you, but you don't always need front and rear springs. For example, I ride the front of the bike, so on my 2 stroke Yamahas, I keep the stock rear spring and run stiffer springs in the fork. It's more about having a balance feel than it is about adhering to some chart or theory. Use the suggested sag setting as a starting point and adjust it by feel from there. Re measure and keep a notebook with what setting you like at each different track.

Even a re-valve is worthless if you never change the oil and don't take the time to fine-tune your stuff.

Stock fork springs used to be like well cooked spaghetti,limp.

If the shock spring is soft then the fork is probably real soft.

All of what Chris said is good fer sure. The bike could go into headshake and just be real nervous.

I always ran the biggest fork spring that would go in. I'm 200 with gear and ran .50 up to .54 in the last bike i had. My buddy had his wound by someone and it took a few trys to get the .54 to work on the 08 450cr. Those spring are probably way more than most ever run but my way of coming up thru the years was to have a fork that would never bottom hard enuff in the hole you misjudged and the bar get yanked out of the hand.

With the big springs i also ran compression nearly full open,let that oil flow. I also ran the shock spring on the stiff side of sag split.