what to use after power washing

CamP
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CamP 8/7/2015 11:36am
8/7/2015 11:36am
dombrowsky106 wrote:
so i just power wash my bike and then put shout on then wipe it off. Im gonna leave in about 10 min and go get...
so i just power wash my bike and then put shout on then wipe it off. Im gonna leave in about 10 min and go get sum.What should i get lucas oil slick mist or shout
When using a power washer, spray off the accumulated mud/dirt, spray entire bike with shout, then powerwash again.
mxtech1
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mxtech1 8/7/2015 11:36am
8/7/2015 11:36am
mxtech1 wrote:
I wouldn't use straight WD40 on plastics because it's slightly oily and can increase gunk-build up over time around the edge of your graphics. The WD40...
I wouldn't use straight WD40 on plastics because it's slightly oily and can increase gunk-build up over time around the edge of your graphics. The WD40 with silicone works ok, but nothing special.

Do you have any auto parts starts in your town like Auto Zone, Advance, O'Reilly, etc? If you do, Lucas Oil makes a product called Slick Mist that works really good and it's only $7. Once I tried it, it worked good enough I stopped using SC1 because of the cost savings.

For cleaning, power wash the bike so that you get all of the mud off of it. Get a bucket of warm water and Dawn dish soap. Use a soft bristled brush to clean all of the metal parts, an old dish rag for the plastics, and a "grunge-brush" for the chain and sprockets. That's all you need, doesn't take anything else fancier than that. If you have a bare metal frame, uses a red scotch-brite pad to clean the rub marks.

The important thing is that you keep it clean after every ride. Don't let it get bad. Once you start getting oil and grime stains, its a pain in the ass to clean.
generallee121 wrote:
MXtech1: you couldnt be more wrong about the WD40. ive been using it religiouslly for 25 years, and my dad and his dad before that for...
MXtech1: you couldnt be more wrong about the WD40. ive been using it religiouslly for 25 years, and my dad and his dad before that for much longer. NEVER have any gunk build up and my graphics and stickers last all year no problem. maybe you just use too much or dont wipe it down after spraying...

Also unless youre a factory mechanic or a factory rider with uber spare parts I try and always avoid the pressure washer, unless were at a mud race of course. the pressure washer blasts sand and water and and crap into all your seals, bearings, basically anywhere that could potentially be an opening. The hose and a nozzle with THE BEST WASHING FLUID EVER (SIMPLEGREEN) are all a regular racer needs after a day of riding. never had a complaint with these 2 products and they are cheap and come in bulk
I enjoy the thought of how your obviously unbiased but "religious, 25 year use of WD40" makes me wrong.

I'll try to keep this simple.....WD40 contains a solvent called mineral spirits. Mineral spirits, like nearly any solvent, should never be applied on rubber seals. As the solvent dries, it can literally pull the moisture out of the seal and cause seal failure over time. Just because the seal looks shiny and wet because of the petroleum portion of WD40, don't assume all is good.

If you do your homework, you would see WD40 has developed a complete line of WD40 that is intended for use on bicycles (motorcycle safe too) Why is it bike safe?? you guessed it....it's solvent free. I'll let you connect the dots from there.

CamP
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CamP 8/7/2015 11:39am
8/7/2015 11:39am
slackinoff wrote:
I agree with this and also have seen it first hand, Put them side by side, you can tell a major difference on the bare aluminum...
I agree with this and also have seen it first hand,

Put them side by side, you can tell a major difference on the bare aluminum parts of the bike, for example the engine cases. I have a thing for clean aluminum parts, trust me.

These are not brand new cases, they were vapor blasted.





Where did you get the vapor blasting done? I've looked in DFW and can't find anyone that is setup for it.
dombrowsky106
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dombrowsky106 8/7/2015 11:40am
8/7/2015 11:40am
should i buy a pump up sprayer and just pour some in

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mxtech1
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mxtech1 8/7/2015 11:42am
8/7/2015 11:42am
dombrowsky106 wrote:
so i just power wash my bike and then put shout on then wipe it off. Im gonna leave in about 10 min and go get...
so i just power wash my bike and then put shout on then wipe it off. Im gonna leave in about 10 min and go get sum.What should i get lucas oil slick mist or shout
Hey guy.... to clarify, clean and wash the bike with shout or whatever else you choose. you have several different good options here.

After you dry the bike, that's when i recommend using the slick mist. spray it on a microfiber towel and then give the plastics and rims a good rub down. Don't spray it on the bike because you will have a hard time controlling where the over-spray goes.
mxtech1
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mxtech1 8/7/2015 11:45am
8/7/2015 11:45am
dombrowsky106 wrote:
should i buy a pump up sprayer and just pour some in
I used to use a 2.5 gallon sprayer for weeds or lawns. The kind you can get at Lowe's, or Home Depot.

My suggestion is to dilute it at least 1:3
CamP
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CamP 8/7/2015 11:47am
8/7/2015 11:47am
Straight.

If you ride in sand or other dirt that comes off easily, you can dilute it to extend the product, but it isn't necessary.
generallee121 8/7/2015 11:47am
8/7/2015 11:47am
mxtech1 wrote:
I wouldn't use straight WD40 on plastics because it's slightly oily and can increase gunk-build up over time around the edge of your graphics. The WD40...
I wouldn't use straight WD40 on plastics because it's slightly oily and can increase gunk-build up over time around the edge of your graphics. The WD40 with silicone works ok, but nothing special.

Do you have any auto parts starts in your town like Auto Zone, Advance, O'Reilly, etc? If you do, Lucas Oil makes a product called Slick Mist that works really good and it's only $7. Once I tried it, it worked good enough I stopped using SC1 because of the cost savings.

For cleaning, power wash the bike so that you get all of the mud off of it. Get a bucket of warm water and Dawn dish soap. Use a soft bristled brush to clean all of the metal parts, an old dish rag for the plastics, and a "grunge-brush" for the chain and sprockets. That's all you need, doesn't take anything else fancier than that. If you have a bare metal frame, uses a red scotch-brite pad to clean the rub marks.

The important thing is that you keep it clean after every ride. Don't let it get bad. Once you start getting oil and grime stains, its a pain in the ass to clean.
generallee121 wrote:
MXtech1: you couldnt be more wrong about the WD40. ive been using it religiouslly for 25 years, and my dad and his dad before that for...
MXtech1: you couldnt be more wrong about the WD40. ive been using it religiouslly for 25 years, and my dad and his dad before that for much longer. NEVER have any gunk build up and my graphics and stickers last all year no problem. maybe you just use too much or dont wipe it down after spraying...

Also unless youre a factory mechanic or a factory rider with uber spare parts I try and always avoid the pressure washer, unless were at a mud race of course. the pressure washer blasts sand and water and and crap into all your seals, bearings, basically anywhere that could potentially be an opening. The hose and a nozzle with THE BEST WASHING FLUID EVER (SIMPLEGREEN) are all a regular racer needs after a day of riding. never had a complaint with these 2 products and they are cheap and come in bulk
mxtech1 wrote:
I enjoy the thought of how your obviously unbiased but "religious, 25 year use of WD40" makes me wrong. I'll try to keep this simple.....WD40 contains...
I enjoy the thought of how your obviously unbiased but "religious, 25 year use of WD40" makes me wrong.

I'll try to keep this simple.....WD40 contains a solvent called mineral spirits. Mineral spirits, like nearly any solvent, should never be applied on rubber seals. As the solvent dries, it can literally pull the moisture out of the seal and cause seal failure over time. Just because the seal looks shiny and wet because of the petroleum portion of WD40, don't assume all is good.

If you do your homework, you would see WD40 has developed a complete line of WD40 that is intended for use on bicycles (motorcycle safe too) Why is it bike safe?? you guessed it....it's solvent free. I'll let you connect the dots from there.

well then I guess you have to add in the combined # of years have not only I used it, but my father, and his father before him, all religiously in moto. and I DO use the bike specific kind as well so sorry to shoot you down off your high pedestal and trying to talk down to me because im younger...

also what I was referring you were wrong about was this " it's slightly oily and can increase gunk-build up over time around the edge of your graphics", never said anything about seals, though for some reason over all those combined years I dont ever seem to have a problem with them drying out or failing either. Heres a novel idea, maybe you need to keep your bike and its seals and bearings cleaned and lubricated better and replaced in adequate time to keep them from failing
slackinoff
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slackinoff 8/7/2015 12:16pm
8/7/2015 12:16pm
CamP wrote:
Where did you get the vapor blasting done? I've looked in DFW and can't find anyone that is setup for it.
Sorry for the long post guys, but if you are here, you like clean shit. So I bring you my quest to get clean cases during a 03 YZ250 full rebuild. I hope you enjoy!

I shipped them off to Santa Fe, NM with most of the bearings/seals removed. Guy named Dan Vitaletti – Vapor Blast Solutions.

http://www.vaporblastsolutions.com/

Click on his "cycle restoration" tab to check out some cool vintage bikes he has worked on. Real neat guy.

Only charged me $65 for both case halves, clutch case, clutch cover, and water pump cover. Shipping was $25, so total was about $90.....I would say it's a heck of a deal.
I personally HATE trying to get aluminum cases to look good. I would rather be strung up by my fingernails.

Here are some before and after pics.

Before















CamP
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CamP 8/7/2015 12:28pm
8/7/2015 12:28pm
Thanks for the link!

I've actually searched for and found a wet blast cabinet that isn't $15k. There is a US supplier that has a table top unit that is the right size for doing motorcycle parts for a little under $3k. That would pay for itself if I found 30 bike restorers that needed wet blast work done, but I'm not really looking for a new job.
Pirate421
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Pirate421 8/7/2015 1:25pm
8/7/2015 1:25pm
Shout is not only better for your bike but it just cleans better. We ride in Texas red clay and its the only thing that easily removed the red stains from plastics, cases, swing arms and hubs
slackinoff
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slackinoff 8/7/2015 3:08pm
8/7/2015 3:08pm
CamP wrote:
Thanks for the link! I've actually searched for and found a wet blast cabinet that isn't $15k. There is a US supplier that has a table...
Thanks for the link!

I've actually searched for and found a wet blast cabinet that isn't $15k. There is a US supplier that has a table top unit that is the right size for doing motorcycle parts for a little under $3k. That would pay for itself if I found 30 bike restorers that needed wet blast work done, but I'm not really looking for a new job.
Hey you are welcome. I have day daydreamed down that same path myself,
BAMX
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BAMX 8/7/2015 4:15pm
8/7/2015 4:15pm
CamP wrote:
Shout is the best bike cleaner I've come across. Been using it for about 10 years. It's pH neutral so it will never wreck your metal...
Shout is the best bike cleaner I've come across. Been using it for about 10 years. It's pH neutral so it will never wreck your metal finishes.

Stay away from caustic cleaners like Simple Green, Purple Power, LA's totally awesome, etc. They are highly alkaline and will oxidize the metals on your bikes.
I took this advice a couple of years ago and never looked back. Shout works great and is super cheap at Costco.

Another tip from Vital that works great is Eagle One Mag Wheel Cleaner. I just bought a radiator from Ebay and it came super stained from some sort of red dirt. A few applications and it looks new.

As for what to spray on, I use that cheap WalMart house brand "Lubricant" and then wipe the bike down. The lubricant displaces water and the rags wipe off the excess.
flyingeek423
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flyingeek423 8/7/2015 8:23pm
8/7/2015 8:23pm
Pirate421 wrote:
Shout is not only better for your bike but it just cleans better. We ride in Texas red clay and its the only thing that easily...
Shout is not only better for your bike but it just cleans better. We ride in Texas red clay and its the only thing that easily removed the red stains from plastics, cases, swing arms and hubs
And anything that was initially white on your jersey/pants before hitting the track. Smile As mentioned this stuff is great and very cheap for how well it works.

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