Posts
2203
Joined
8/17/2006
Location
Adger, AL
US
Edited Date/Time
4/10/2014 12:20pm
I picked up a CR125 a few months ago and I'm getting around to making some mods. The previous owner got a decent start. Here's where I'm at:
Bike has new drive components with 53 tooth rear sprocket
New rubber, cheap Atrax on both ends, seem to do fine on the 125
New plastic, I plan to add a Cycra Stasium plate and front fender in '04-09 style
Fresh top end supposedly (I'm thinking about sending the Motor to Gorr for 134 treatment and a little more compression
2006 air box, might benefit from some holes
I'm looking for PWK air striker carb. Should I go 36mm or 38mm? Currently I have a PJ off an '86 CR500 on it. It already runs better than the Mikuni. It's a bit rich w/ 50 pilot and a 180 main.
Stock pipe and an FMF shorty, looking to go FMF Factory Fatty. Will likely get a V Force 3 also.
In the long run I'll probably go with black weels and 270-280mm front rotor, bigger pegs, and some '05-'07 Showas up front.
I'll try and throw up a few before photos tomorrow. The bike will be for play riding for me (5'-10", 200, Vet
and my son (5'-10", 130, beginner).
Bike has new drive components with 53 tooth rear sprocket
New rubber, cheap Atrax on both ends, seem to do fine on the 125
New plastic, I plan to add a Cycra Stasium plate and front fender in '04-09 style
Fresh top end supposedly (I'm thinking about sending the Motor to Gorr for 134 treatment and a little more compression
2006 air box, might benefit from some holes
I'm looking for PWK air striker carb. Should I go 36mm or 38mm? Currently I have a PJ off an '86 CR500 on it. It already runs better than the Mikuni. It's a bit rich w/ 50 pilot and a 180 main.
Stock pipe and an FMF shorty, looking to go FMF Factory Fatty. Will likely get a V Force 3 also.
In the long run I'll probably go with black weels and 270-280mm front rotor, bigger pegs, and some '05-'07 Showas up front.
I'll try and throw up a few before photos tomorrow. The bike will be for play riding for me (5'-10", 200, Vet
and my son (5'-10", 130, beginner).
Don't do the large brake, you shouldn't be on the brakes anyways, it's a 125.
I don't have a YZ and I don't want a YZ. If I wanted to buy the fastest 125 on the market, I'd go get a KTM.
What else i've done
Rad Valve
02 Power valve- different shape
PC pipe and silencer
05 air boot
Airbox mods to bring in more air.
slight porting and polishing.
How does the bike run now? The characteristics of the Motor?
The Shop
Luxon 4-Post Bar Mounts
$189.95 - $239.95
Free shipping: VITALMX
The one you want has the black Screw cap, with or without the TPS. My mech. filled the TPS deal with epoxy. You want the black screw cap one because of clearance issues.
Here is a good link on the swap.
http://motocrosshideout.com/cr250cr125-pwk-air-striker-conversion-throw-out-the-tmx/
What jetting did you end up with and what's your elevation?
When I got the bike it was a turd and gurgled its way from idle up until it finally cleared out and ran fairly decent wide open. I have an '86 CR500 and saw it had a Keihin that matched dimensions so I cleaned it and swapped it out for the Mikuni. Immediately the bottom got better. It actually sounds decent on the stand now but when the engine is loaded it still muddles its way off the bottom up through half throttle. It idles good but seems really fat in the bottom half of throttle opening. I'm going to play with the pilot, main, and needle positions on the PJ carb a little and see what I can get done until I get an AS.
Last week I put on an FMF shorty with the Keihin PJ carb. The brakes need work. I've got some black hoops and I'll probably put 1/2" holes in the airbox this week.
Oh yeah, I'll put on a Cycra Stadium plate and '04-'09 front 250f front fender soon. Thinking about a black motoseat too. Sent Camstyn a reply in the bazaar about a bunch of CR stuff maybe he'll see soon also.
The secret to making it go fast is keep your motor fresh. I did top ends every 12-15 hours. Rev the PISS out of that thing, and if you blow it up, oh well, only $150 to fix it.
If you plan on keeping her screaming, I would suggest stock gearing in the back with one tooth BIGGER in the front.
While it makes the bike slow as turd down low, it will pull so much longer before flattening out up top.
A lot more reasonable carbs come up on eBay if you search without the term "air striker." The folks that advertise air striker want $200 plus. Those that don't know they have air strikers are $100-$150. I don't know what slide came in that one but I'll put a 45 pilot in and a 172 main and see what I get.
I bought some spray on paint stripper today. I plan to strip the paint off the stock pipe. It's been repainted.
I second the going up a tooth on the front sprocket, makes you carry your momentum more but pulls nicely. You got a nice ride there, mine was a roached POS when I got it. Looking forward to hearing how the 38PWK works for you.
And I agree on the Ebayers posting every carb as a PWK AS. Easiest way to tell are the fins on the intake side of the carb.
Good luck man.
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