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Last weekend I took a few at a local indoor track with half the lights off and a skylight in the backgroud. Normally a very hard shot for me. (D50 w/ 18-55 SB-600) Gallery: http://www.barsracing.com/images/RamJam/index.html
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1. Open the Actions palette, click on the folder icon at the bottom of that palette to create a new set of actions, click on the note pad icon to create a new action and that will start recording just about everything you do until you click the square stop button.
2. With a photo already open run through the steps you need to tune up the photos including the save as and close.
3. Go to the File>Automate>Create Droplet menu. First is the "Save Droplet In" box choose a folder to store the droplet in and give it a name. In the "Play" box select the Set and the Action, check the "Suppress File Open Options Dialogs" and the "Suppress Color Profile Warnings" boxes.
4. Click OK.
Now to process some files, I use iViewmedia Pro to organize my photos so from a catalog I'll drag the photos onto the droplet and let Photoshop go to town
new here!
I've been shooting MX for about a year, though have made a change over to Enduro/H&H/GNCC style.
A few I've taken and hints/tips appreciated.
I know i need to get out of the close portrait style photo especially with enduro involving more 'landscape'
Thanks
Most of these were a schoolboy club a couple from a more national event
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I currently use a 30d . Lenses 70-200f4l and sigma 17-70 f2.8 550ex flash
Picking up a 17-40 L this week as the w/a to me suits Enduro more but would love a 24-70L f2.8 as and when funds allow
new here!
I've been shooting MX for about a year, though have made a change over to Enduro/H&H/GNCC style.
A few I've taken and hints/tips appreciated.
I know i need to get out of the close portrait style photo especially with enduro involving more 'landscape'
Thanks
Most of these were a schoolboy club a couple from a more national event
[/quote:2stc7m84]
Sion, these are good shots, looks like you've got the technical side of shooting figured out and the composition's good too. Try to work on some new angles, give your audience something they haven't seen before.
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Help regarding using the flash would be good. I set it to sync to HTTL.
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new here!
I've been shooting MX for about a year, though have made a change over to Enduro/H&H/GNCC style.
A few I've taken and hints/tips appreciated.
I know i need to get out of the close portrait style photo especially with enduro involving more 'landscape'
Thanks
Most of these were a schoolboy club a couple from a more national event
[/quote:1zx4ih18]
Sion, these are good shots, looks like you've got the technical side of shooting figured out and the composition's good too. Try to work on some new angles, give your audience something they haven't seen before.[/quote:1zx4ih18]
Thanks Paul.
I always seem to miss THAT shot by a nano second
Hoping to stick to nationals and the bigger events next year. Its getting used to the vastly different light levels in the woods/forest.
Here's some of my older stuff, ready for critique. Shot with a 20d (before I had my mark III) and a 70-200 2.8l and 24-70 2.8l
The photos get a little smushed when i post them, you can click them to see the full size
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[img:2dzac6mw]http://zachwphoto.com/gallery/port/images/port1.jpg[/img:2dzac6mw]
And this is from lorettas in 06, I know the white is blown out but I really like the shot
[img:2dzac6mw]http://zachwphoto.com/gallery/port/images/port3.jpg[/img:2dzac6mw]
Help regarding using the flash would be good. I set it to sync to HTTL.
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How would you want it to look? This looks like a nice balance of ambient/strobe to me. That guy with the reflective vest probably cut the flash down a bit, those stripes are THAT bright. I have a bunch of under exposed Micky Dymond Supermoto photos, he's got that reflective stuff all over the place on his bike.
Here's some of my older stuff, ready for critique. Shot with a 20d (before I had my mark III) and a 70-200 2.8l and 24-70 2.8l
The photos get a little smushed when i post them, you can click them to see the full size
And this is from lorettas in 06, I know the white is blown out but I really like the shot
[/quote:16o7xkcj]
They're pretty nice, watch the histogram on the back of your camera. All a histogram is, is a graph of where the pixels are falling on a dark to light scale, keep them all on the graph in a nice mound and you're good, if they start to pile up at one end or the other you either have all black pixels or all white pixels. When pixels are totally blown out or totally black no amount of Photoshop work will bring back the detail.
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[/quote:3nflespz]
Kyle motocross is pretty challenging for any auto focus system, the 1 series Canon's have a much faster system than the 20 or 30 series cameras do, the current 1's have separate processors just for focusing. That said there are a few things you can do to improve your odds.
Give the camera a moment to focus on a rider, start following him a second or two before you shoot and have the shutter press half way down so that the AI system can do it's job. Try to keep your selected focus point on one spot of the rider or bike, keep it from going from the front number plate to the jersey to the front tire. When you want to shoot, gently squeeze the shutter, don't mash it like a video game button. To keep more of a rider in focus you need a smaller f stop, if the front fender is tack sharp but the goggles are getting soft at f4 you might want to try 5.6 or f8. I love the look of f2.8 but miss the mark on the focus point and there's no depth of field to save you.
Nice pan shots, you've got some nice color there.
I just joined to tell you that what your doing in this thread for others is great, most Pro photographers wouldn't dream of helping amateur or semi Pro photographers the way you are.. especially here in the Europe, they go all out not to be helpfull.. [personally i think they are affraid of the competition
Anyway enough brown nosing from me - keep up the good work.
Only been shooting mx the last year and have to say iam finding extremly difficult.
The last SX i shot was really bad light so i was using a 85mm fixed lens at ap 1.2 iso 200 and 1/250 shuter.
Quite a lot of the shots are pin sharp on the the part i was focusing on but because of the high ap they are quite soft for the rest of the image. I think i just answered my own question there, lol
However would you recomend shooting the whole of the subject or is it ok to crop the shot.
Cheers paul.
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Only been shooting mx the last year and have to say iam finding extremly difficult.
The last SX i shot was really bad light so i was using a 85mm fixed lens at ap 1.2 iso 200 and 1/250 shuter.
Quite a lot of the shots are pin sharp on the the part i was focusing on but because of the high ap they are quite soft for the rest of the image. I think i just answered my own question there, lol
However would you recomend shooting the whole of the subject or is it ok to crop the shot.
Cheers paul.
[/quote:1seww10g]
Darren, there's no hard and fast rule about how tight to shoot, some people will want a nice tight shot (mag covers) while others want more of a panoramic shot (shoe ads) I always send out un-cropped photos that way the art directors get to play with all the data. Last year Oakley cropped out a two page spread from a vertical shot of RC at Red Bud.
If you're getting f1.2 @ 250 with ISO200 that sound like a pretty well lit stadium, I'd probably try 800ISO f2.8 @ 250 just for a little more depth of field.
Darren
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Pit Row
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no flash iso 1600 with fireworks sharpen
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#598 Ryan Persinger
Hey Paul, have any MacGuyver type tricks for shooting in bad weather?? I haven't really shot much in the day without direct sun light. Have a baseline setting I could start with? I will be in the stands obviously, so I will have the 70-300 lens. Maybe I will can just yell to you and you can set it up for me? lol
Do you approach shooting a local event and a national event differently. I seem to try and get one of everybody locally and am more selective at a national. What are your feelings about this?
Do you approach shooting a local event and a national event differently. I seem to try and get one of everybody locally and am more selective at a national. What are your feelings about this?[/quote:gv8dnte2]
Scott at the local races I do shoot more riders, I'll try to get a couple shots of each guy. I'll try to have a couple spots picked out per moto, shoot everyone for a lap or two then move to another spot to get them another view.
At a National I'd shoot the guys I had clients paying me to shoot. When I started I shot every rider at a national and that's why I have some Stanton #56 and Emig #747 and some McGrath #125 photos but I also have tons of three digit guys that I have no clue who they are. Would it really cost anything to shoot all the guys at a national now that we're all digital? Well there's no film cost and DVDs are cheap but think of the post race edit time. I know how long it takes me to go through 1,000 photos, shoot all the guys and you can easily double that number and that will double your edit time, might even make it longer than that if you name your files with the rider's name and you have to look up #772 in the results to see who that is.
The Canon EF 17-40mm f4L lens, what's your thought on that lens? I have the 24-70 f2.8L, but since the body telescopes, it occasionally gets the zoom windings stuck, which is very annoying (and costs me to have it fixed). I have a 70-200 f4L, so I'm covered from 70mm onwards, but the 7mm between the 17 and the 24mm seem to sometimes be exactly what I need (besides the lens being a lot shorter than the 24-70).
Stefan[/quote:6od7d2y4]
Stefan I've never tried the 17-40 or the 24-70. I have a 28-70 that I've used for a long, long time. It has a telescoping body and yes it feels kinda gritty but it's never gotten stuck. Every once in a while I'll hold it over a white sheet of paper and work the zoom in and out while the lens is upside down. You should see all the dirt that ends up on the paper!
One thing about f4 lenses is that they won't focus as fast as the 2.8 Canons since the center focus point (and maybe a couple others) detect horizontal and vertical lines @ 2.8 or better.
Do you approach shooting a local event and a national event differently. I seem to try and get one of everybody locally and am more selective at a national. What are your feelings about this?[/quote:2kqd5nsu]
Scott at the local races I do shoot more riders, I'll try to get a couple shots of each guy. I'll try to have a couple spots picked out per moto, shoot everyone for a lap or two then move to another spot to get them another view.
At a National I'd shoot the guys I had clients paying me to shoot. When I started I shot every rider at a national and that's why I have some Stanton #56 and Emig #747 and some McGrath #125 photos but I also have tons of three digit guys that I have no clue who they are. Would it really cost anything to shoot all the guys at a national now that we're all digital? Well there's no film cost and DVDs are cheap but think of the post race edit time. I know how long it takes me to go through 1,000 photos, shoot all the guys and you can easily double that number and that will double your edit time, might even make it longer than that if you name your files with the rider's name and you have to look up #772 in the results to see who that is.[/quote:2kqd5nsu]
Paul-
Thanks for the advise. I rename each photo by riders name so even with photo mechanic it takes me a long time to go through everything after an event. I usually try to get as many riders as possible...you never know who'll make it big right? I just feel that at a local track it is more of a production line mentality ,getting at least one of everyone, versus thinking more about each photo at a national. Maybe it's the surroundings but maybe at the 7th race of the at the same local track in the middle of the summer it is more difficult to think through each photo. I was just curious to hear your thoughts.
Thanks again.
Scott
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