New 2013 KTM 250SX setup advice

Bear41
Posts
14
Joined
1/9/2013
Location
West Chester, OH US
Edited Date/Time 1/17/2013 6:51am
Just bought a new 2013 SX250. My first KTM after decades on Honda. I've read the jetting advice, but I'm wondering about first ride prep.

Does the factory grease the suspension properly? (Honda doesn't).

What other things should I check before taking it out for its first serious break-in ride?

Strictly moto and I've been racing for a long time, so I know the basics. Just wondering what checking the KTM needs.

Thanks!
|
Digger29
Posts
1885
Joined
11/2/2011
Location
Oxford, MA US
1/12/2013 7:37am
I didn't grease my 13 250SX for about 4 wks & there was still plenty of grease in there. Check all nuts & bolts cuz I found a number of loose ones :-( Jet it correctly before you even ride it or you'll disappointed. It's takes a good 10hrs for the suspension to break in. I've got mine working & running great so pm me if you have any questions. Mike
mynewcr250
Posts
681
Joined
10/22/2012
Location
CA US
1/12/2013 7:59am Edited Date/Time 1/12/2013 8:09am
i did not grease mine either. just cleaned and re-greased at 11 hours. not much grease in the linkage or swing arm, the steering head had a decent amount.

i think a lot of guys harp on the OEM's for not greasing things to their liking...but who actually knows what is optimal? what is too little/too much grease? does all that excess grease you pack in there do anything other than stick to everything but the bearing needles?

btw, to those guys that like to use Bel Ray grease, keep in mind its an aluminum complex based grease. very low compatibility level with other greases. if you use bel ray and you're not cleaning out the old grease in the bearings fully and with solvent, there is a chance you're doing more harm than good. KTM uses Bike Grease 2000 in some areas which is a calcium based grease (they don't specify which kind though so bel ray may/may not be compatible...) and they also use skf LGHB 2 which, again, is a calcium based grease. i personally just use the "water proof marine" grease available at wal mart. its cheap, its water proof, its sticky, and its a lithium complex grease. you can see using the chart that there really isnt a whole lot of incompatibility using a lithium complex grease and even though we dont know what kind of calcium based grease the motorex stuff is, we know that it doesnt matter since we're using a lithium based grease. the walmart grease (or any waterproof lithium complex grease) is a win/win. pick your grease wisely...



"Figure 1. Relative Compatibility Rating
B = Borderline C = Compatible I = Incompatible
Note: This chart is a general guide to grease compatibility. Specific properties of greases can dictate suitability for use. Testing should be conducted to determine if greases are compatible.

Compatibility of grease mixtures is typically categorized as follows:

Compatible – The properties of the mixture are similar to those of the individual grease.

Incompatible – The properties of the mixture are significantly different than those of the individual greases.

Borderline – The properties of the mixture may or may not be acceptable, depending on the nature of the application."

source link: http://www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/1865/grease-compatibility
nornevrder
Posts
671
Joined
3/20/2011
Location
Reno, NV US
1/12/2013 5:17pm
I had a 12 350 that I rode 6hrs before the winter. I did go through a couple of puddles but when I took the linkage off and I had a seized bearing. I went against my rule of tearing the bike down before the first ride. When I get my new bike I will be tearing it down and greasing everything .
1/13/2013 3:49am
mynewcr250 wrote:
i did not grease mine either. just cleaned and re-greased at 11 hours. not much grease in the linkage or swing arm, the steering head had...
i did not grease mine either. just cleaned and re-greased at 11 hours. not much grease in the linkage or swing arm, the steering head had a decent amount.

i think a lot of guys harp on the OEM's for not greasing things to their liking...but who actually knows what is optimal? what is too little/too much grease? does all that excess grease you pack in there do anything other than stick to everything but the bearing needles?

btw, to those guys that like to use Bel Ray grease, keep in mind its an aluminum complex based grease. very low compatibility level with other greases. if you use bel ray and you're not cleaning out the old grease in the bearings fully and with solvent, there is a chance you're doing more harm than good. KTM uses Bike Grease 2000 in some areas which is a calcium based grease (they don't specify which kind though so bel ray may/may not be compatible...) and they also use skf LGHB 2 which, again, is a calcium based grease. i personally just use the "water proof marine" grease available at wal mart. its cheap, its water proof, its sticky, and its a lithium complex grease. you can see using the chart that there really isnt a whole lot of incompatibility using a lithium complex grease and even though we dont know what kind of calcium based grease the motorex stuff is, we know that it doesnt matter since we're using a lithium based grease. the walmart grease (or any waterproof lithium complex grease) is a win/win. pick your grease wisely...



"Figure 1. Relative Compatibility Rating
B = Borderline C = Compatible I = Incompatible
Note: This chart is a general guide to grease compatibility. Specific properties of greases can dictate suitability for use. Testing should be conducted to determine if greases are compatible.

Compatibility of grease mixtures is typically categorized as follows:

Compatible – The properties of the mixture are similar to those of the individual grease.

Incompatible – The properties of the mixture are significantly different than those of the individual greases.

Borderline – The properties of the mixture may or may not be acceptable, depending on the nature of the application."

source link: http://www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/1865/grease-compatibility
Wow that is interesting. But does it really make much of a difference in a linkage? I can understand if there is a high work load or a heat load on the bearing then using the correct grease is important.

The Shop

Kryan5
Posts
792
Joined
2/17/2011
Location
Etters, PA US
1/14/2013 6:47am
Wow that is interesting. But does it really make much of a difference in a linkage? I can understand if there is a high work load...
Wow that is interesting. But does it really make much of a difference in a linkage? I can understand if there is a high work load or a heat load on the bearing then using the correct grease is important.
Yes, It absolutely makes a difference. Greases that are not compatible will break down causing the lubricant to separate from the binder agent. That means you will have the gummy stuff that holds it together left, but the oil(lubricant) will run out and the grease will have very minimal lubricating capabilities.
Bear41
Posts
14
Joined
1/9/2013
Location
West Chester, OH US
1/14/2013 8:23am
nornevrder wrote:
I had a 12 350 that I rode 6hrs before the winter. I did go through a couple of puddles but when I took the linkage...
I had a 12 350 that I rode 6hrs before the winter. I did go through a couple of puddles but when I took the linkage off and I had a seized bearing. I went against my rule of tearing the bike down before the first ride. When I get my new bike I will be tearing it down and greasing everything .
Did you use a powerwasher on the bike? Six hours and a seized bearing is a little odd or a manufacturer defect, but if water was forced into the bearing then it would make sense.
Bear41
Posts
14
Joined
1/9/2013
Location
West Chester, OH US
1/17/2013 6:51am
I never knew about the incompatibility of grease types until I read this. Thanks dirtbikersa!

Post a reply to: New 2013 KTM 250SX setup advice

The Latest