Rear kicks on braking bumps...

The Rock
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HAIKU, HI, USA
5/2/2012 8:33pm Edited Date/Time 5/2/2012 8:40pm
BAMX wrote:
No I have not tried a slipper clutch. I really don't ride my 4T much anymore and since RG3 did the suspension, I don't have an...
No I have not tried a slipper clutch. I really don't ride my 4T much anymore and since RG3 did the suspension, I don't have an issue that makes me feel I need one. I am not saying that they are bad but I don't want to lay down $600 bucks for a test. Plus, some engine breaking on a overweight 4t isn't always bad. My point was that the guy hasn't touched one thing to tune the suspension and instead of figuring out what his problem is you are telling him to buy a clutch
NFM
JB 19
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Marion, OH, USA
5/2/2012 9:59pm Edited Date/Time 5/2/2012 10:01pm
The Rock wrote:
I just put a shirt with a target on so take your best shot but seriously folks..... I only related my experience with a slipper clutch...
I just put a shirt with a target on so take your best shot but seriously folks.....

I only related my experience with a slipper clutch end of story. Single biggest handling improvement I've ever experienced and if I was actively racing I would add one to my ride before I touched the motor, exhaust or suspension.

It also made the YZ250F feel like it was a two stroke the way it eliminated the engine breaking....at first I thought that would be an issue but I think it actually helped my corner speed.

Question: BAMX-Have you had the opportunity to check out a slipper clutch?
BAMX wrote:
No I have not tried a slipper clutch. I really don't ride my 4T much anymore and since RG3 did the suspension, I don't have an...
No I have not tried a slipper clutch. I really don't ride my 4T much anymore and since RG3 did the suspension, I don't have an issue that makes me feel I need one. I am not saying that they are bad but I don't want to lay down $600 bucks for a test. Plus, some engine breaking on a overweight 4t isn't always bad. My point was that the guy hasn't touched one thing to tune the suspension and instead of figuring out what his problem is you are telling him to buy a clutch
I don't think he ever told the guy to buy a slipper clutch.......he was simply relaying his experience. Some of us like info like that which we stash away in the memory vault for a possible later day.

Personally, I enjoy threads about the tech side of bikes.
Robgvx
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GB
5/3/2012 5:02am Edited Date/Time 5/3/2012 5:04am
Maybe you're riding with the latest 'New School' technique....

5/3/2012 7:31am
Robgvx wrote:
Maybe you're riding with the latest 'New School' technique.... [img]http://distilleryimage11.instagram.com/b2225a9c8d5f11e180d51231380fcd7e_7.jpg[/img]
Maybe you're riding with the latest 'New School' technique....

Isnt it funny how it looks as if Tomac is running a spoof helmet with a big ass green visor and a duck bill attached at a quick glance.

The Shop

4stroke4DWIN
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texas city, TX, USA
5/3/2012 7:38am
I tend to blip the throttle and go a little deeper (speed wise) into corners that have breaking bumps leading into them, it seems it lets the suspension relax a bit? Being that I'm 6'2'' it takes a BIG bump for the seat to come up and give me a little buck.
Jrewing
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AU
4/14/2017 4:42pm
Sand you say. They're usually big big bumps with lots of time for the suspension to recover. Stiff and slow is the general consensus.
I agree some rear brake will stabilise the rear ended.

You really need someone to observe or better yet film it and you can zoom and slow mo it
tuggy450
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Massapequa, NY, USA
4/16/2017 3:36am Edited Date/Time 4/16/2017 4:42am
Dr so far the advise is kinda all over the place , but i'll add in my 2 cents. It could be technique also. The right way to do these things at least from my perspective is to drag the rear brake while also using throttle. Sounds strange as you are trying to slow down, I sort of modulate with the front brake,
But what you are really doing is keeping the bike even or level while braking. and loading the shock with the throttle. Think of it as a whoop section kind of. only you are approaching the whoops fast and you decide to abort the whoops. It may be the fast way into the corner to make a pass etc but may not actually be the fastest way in and out of the corner.

Done correctly it is kinda scary, and saps energy but fast. On suspension? make sure your forks aren't to soft, or rebounding to slow, If the shock rebound feels ok everywhere else it probably close enough, but i would increase rear compression, and possibly slow the rebound on the shock. choosing a smoother line always helps and is often faster. Look at the faster or smoother riders. How are they dealing with the same section?

Disclaimer: take what I said with a grain of salt, they used to warm up the ambulances before my moto's
DrSweden
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Stockholm, SE
4/16/2017 9:49am
tuggy450 wrote:
Dr so far the advise is kinda all over the place , but i'll add in my 2 cents. It could be technique also. The right...
Dr so far the advise is kinda all over the place , but i'll add in my 2 cents. It could be technique also. The right way to do these things at least from my perspective is to drag the rear brake while also using throttle. Sounds strange as you are trying to slow down, I sort of modulate with the front brake,
But what you are really doing is keeping the bike even or level while braking. and loading the shock with the throttle. Think of it as a whoop section kind of. only you are approaching the whoops fast and you decide to abort the whoops. It may be the fast way into the corner to make a pass etc but may not actually be the fastest way in and out of the corner.

Done correctly it is kinda scary, and saps energy but fast. On suspension? make sure your forks aren't to soft, or rebounding to slow, If the shock rebound feels ok everywhere else it probably close enough, but i would increase rear compression, and possibly slow the rebound on the shock. choosing a smoother line always helps and is often faster. Look at the faster or smoother riders. How are they dealing with the same section?

Disclaimer: take what I said with a grain of salt, they used to warm up the ambulances before my moto's
Tnx for your input, and good inof, but thread is 5 years old, so I don't even know what bike it was!? Cool
tuggy450
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3/12/2016
Location
Massapequa, NY, USA
4/16/2017 9:52am
Haha,
guess it was bumped up.
didn't even notice it, somehow though I thought I had seen this before. Oh well maybe it will help someone with similar issues
PFitzG38
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1743
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11/6/2009
Location
Newport Beach, CA, USA
4/17/2017 9:30am
It sounds like it's packing due to too stiff rebound OR Not enough rebound. It's easy to find out which.
PFitzG38
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1743
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Location
Newport Beach, CA, USA
4/17/2017 10:02am
tuggy450 wrote:
Dr so far the advise is kinda all over the place , but i'll add in my 2 cents. It could be technique also. The right...
Dr so far the advise is kinda all over the place , but i'll add in my 2 cents. It could be technique also. The right way to do these things at least from my perspective is to drag the rear brake while also using throttle. Sounds strange as you are trying to slow down, I sort of modulate with the front brake,
But what you are really doing is keeping the bike even or level while braking. and loading the shock with the throttle. Think of it as a whoop section kind of. only you are approaching the whoops fast and you decide to abort the whoops. It may be the fast way into the corner to make a pass etc but may not actually be the fastest way in and out of the corner.

Done correctly it is kinda scary, and saps energy but fast. On suspension? make sure your forks aren't to soft, or rebounding to slow, If the shock rebound feels ok everywhere else it probably close enough, but i would increase rear compression, and possibly slow the rebound on the shock. choosing a smoother line always helps and is often faster. Look at the faster or smoother riders. How are they dealing with the same section?

Disclaimer: take what I said with a grain of salt, they used to warm up the ambulances before my moto's
The best advice i ever got for the downhill at Mammoth was from McGrath he told me to drag the rear brake and pin it. Counter intuitive but it works!

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