Hey guys, I was looking for some real-world input on the 2nd injector kit. I was considering it for my YZF but still just kinda on the fence. I talked to Keefer and he gave some positive input. He noted to keep an eye on the cam chain, which as we know can sometimes be suspect. Otherwise it seems like a lot of boost for the money, with low risk. I just don't know anyone that owns a bike fitted with that kit. I'm a Vet Intermediate. Just ride mostly for fun, with a couple races a year. My YZF is pretty low hr still, as I have 3 bikes and we just had a kid last year, so it sat a lot. But this year should be more normal. So I'm wanting to put a little more money into the '21 to have some more fun (a true Vet bike, I suppose.) Already have peg relocation, Ti engine mounts, dialed suspension, Superflow intake etc. So the bike is really good for me. Just figured the next step would be a tuned Vortex or the full DI/Vortex kit. So just wanted opinion/feedback. The only thing is if I do it, I want to ride the bike for at least another couple years. But there is always the temptation to get the 24. So it's the classic choice of continue modding/dialing the current one with this somewhat big investment or just put the $ towards the new one (now or later.)
It's great and makes a huge difference. If I had to do it again I would do the dual injection long before an exhaust.
I'd proably just do a Vortex and dual injector with a port job and slip on and be quite happy.
Edit:
I should also add more then the cam chain you need to build the crank. I use to work at crankworks and was there for the development and first years of their pro rod. Anytime I add a decent amount of power I order a rod and balance the crank to the new piston, rod. Its good insurance since you know it's expensive AF if you throw a rod. I feel like the cam chain issue is seen more so with using different cams and adding power or raisng the rpm limit. My cam chain wore significantly faster with pro circuit cams, pc springs and stock Rev limit vs stock cams, stiffer springs and 200 extra rpm over stock
Curious myself - I just ordered the TD DI kit. Haven't tried it yet but from what i could tell on google reviews on the www webs everyone seems to have nothing but positive comments.
So your edit here is I guess exactly 1 of the things that I was wondering. I've seen people say "you don't have to open up the engine and you get a nice boost in power." So while that seems like a good thing, I wonder if the added power (and slightly higher rev limiter) is still something to worry about. Basically, is this mod something that is good for a Vet rider to do to a essentially stock engine (w exhaust and screen less intake) or is it really only ideal for a serious racer that is doing frequent rebuilds? Obviously I am not going to be pushing it like a 20 yr old fast guy. But I still don't want to have to start worrying about the cam chain, rod etc.
I just was looking for that 1 last mod to make it the ultimate vet bike for me. And this is my fav bike I owned, so I wanted to make the most of it, if I'm gonna stick with it. Like mentioned, the other options are just a TD Vortex only or just get a 24/25, swap over what I can and just run it. Or keep the 21 and run it as-is.
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Get you a TD vortex or a GET ecu from HPR and try, if its not enough you can go for a second injector kit, the GET is ready to connect a second injector so you just need a software uprdate for a few buggs..
The stock rod will be fine for the horse power that the dual injection an ecu adds, it adds more from top to bottom and fills it out better. If your keeping the stock rod I would make sure there is a couple maps for stock Rev limit maps on top of the ones that add 2-300rpm. How many hours does your bikes rod have, that's also a question that has to be looked at when adding power. If you have 50+ hours on a stock rod and piston its best to do a rebuild in my opinion. I'm at a point with bikes that while I do the work to rebuild them, I try not to let anything be questionable when I do a motor mod then end up having to buy cases, cylinders, heads, plus all the parts to do a top and bottom end. Doing a full rebuild at 70-100 hrs then gives me a spare used rebuild should the motor go from a rock, oil pump anything. I know I have a good set of valves springs ect just waiting.
Lot's of great info there. Thank you very much. I don't even think the bike has 20hrs on it yet, so it's still pretty fresh. Like I said, it sat for a year when we had our baby. And I have other bikes, so I won't be racking up a ton of time on it. But I will be riding more now, than the last 2 years. I just wanted to make sure I wasn't getting in over my head, with a high-maintenence mod. But it sounds like it should be fine. Thanks again.
I did a vortex from twisted, gytr head/cams, 270 kit, full fmf, and the twin air screen. That bike was a ton of fun!
Yeah it's low maintenance power. Be careful cleaning the filter dirt has more places to hide now. 20hrs is fine, that's as new as it gets if the rod or cam chain go in the next 20-30hrs it was gonna go either way.
Only thing to keep an eye out as everyone noted is the cam chain. I do personally feel like the rings wear a bit faster. I typically do a set of rings when I do a chain.
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