Posts
3
Joined
5/27/2021
Location
Spokane, WA
US
2009 wr250f with a rekluse z start auto and an fmf slip on
38 pilot jet
Aftermarket fuel screw 0 turns out
Jet needle on leanest setting at highest notch
170 main jet
Altitude 1800-4500 feet north Idaho/eastern Washington
Temperature 50-80 degrees Fahrenheit
I picked this bike up a couple weeks back and just can’t seem to get it tuned right. I’m experiencing what I think is a rich bog through each gear. There is also a pretty bad stutter/hesitation around mid-3/4 of the gears rpms. Mostly noticeable in first and second gear when slowly progressing through the gear around 1/8-1/4 throttle. When I fly through the gears full throttle the bike will power right through the sputter/hesitation but still feels a bit low/boggy. There is no popping coming from the exhaust on decel.
My brother has a 2007 wr250f with an fmf slip on and I used his main jet(162) and jet needle (four notches down I believe) and this didn’t seem to really help at all.
I’ve tried to read through some forums regarding these issues with this bike and it seems like a lot of people have unplugged their tps to get rid of the problem. When I unplug mine it definitely helps quite a bit but idle is still a bit rough and power isn’t as crisp as I would like. Definitely off from my brothers WR. I would like to be able to leave the tps plugged in and not just put a band aid over the problem. First plug I pulled after buying the bike was very black. I swapped that out when I got the bike and recently pulled the new plug and that was starting to turn a dry black as well.
For the pilot circuit it will fire right up without any choke and the reason the fuel screw is turned all the way in is because when I try to turn it out at all the idle gets worse. My understanding is when this happens I need to drop a pilot size but 38 already seems pretty lean.
Went through recently and cleaned the carb which was a massive pain in the ass on this model and my buddy mentioned that the float height was off and had adjusted that a bit. He didn’t measure the adjustment simply eyeballed it. So I’m thinking that probably wouldn’t be a bad place to start for the idle circuit but the bog/hesitation was there before the carb cleaning.
Any insights/pointers as to what to try next? Running out of ideas here.
38 pilot jet
Aftermarket fuel screw 0 turns out
Jet needle on leanest setting at highest notch
170 main jet
Altitude 1800-4500 feet north Idaho/eastern Washington
Temperature 50-80 degrees Fahrenheit
I picked this bike up a couple weeks back and just can’t seem to get it tuned right. I’m experiencing what I think is a rich bog through each gear. There is also a pretty bad stutter/hesitation around mid-3/4 of the gears rpms. Mostly noticeable in first and second gear when slowly progressing through the gear around 1/8-1/4 throttle. When I fly through the gears full throttle the bike will power right through the sputter/hesitation but still feels a bit low/boggy. There is no popping coming from the exhaust on decel.
My brother has a 2007 wr250f with an fmf slip on and I used his main jet(162) and jet needle (four notches down I believe) and this didn’t seem to really help at all.
I’ve tried to read through some forums regarding these issues with this bike and it seems like a lot of people have unplugged their tps to get rid of the problem. When I unplug mine it definitely helps quite a bit but idle is still a bit rough and power isn’t as crisp as I would like. Definitely off from my brothers WR. I would like to be able to leave the tps plugged in and not just put a band aid over the problem. First plug I pulled after buying the bike was very black. I swapped that out when I got the bike and recently pulled the new plug and that was starting to turn a dry black as well.
For the pilot circuit it will fire right up without any choke and the reason the fuel screw is turned all the way in is because when I try to turn it out at all the idle gets worse. My understanding is when this happens I need to drop a pilot size but 38 already seems pretty lean.
Went through recently and cleaned the carb which was a massive pain in the ass on this model and my buddy mentioned that the float height was off and had adjusted that a bit. He didn’t measure the adjustment simply eyeballed it. So I’m thinking that probably wouldn’t be a bad place to start for the idle circuit but the bog/hesitation was there before the carb cleaning.
Any insights/pointers as to what to try next? Running out of ideas here.
Paw Paw
What was the conclusion to this post? Did you end up solving the issue?
The Shop
Luxon 4-Post Bar Mounts
$189.95 - $239.95
DeCal Works Huge Plastic Inventory of UFO and Polisport kits.
Free shipping: VITALMX
It was the air cut valve. Someone put it back in the wrong order so it was basically just stuck open with the spring and diaphragm backwards
Post a reply to: Jetting issues? Tps? WR250F