**UPDATE**1997 KX 125 build

Robertford44
Posts
14
Joined
1/15/2016
Location
Loganville, GA, USA
Edited Date/Time 2/6/2016 2:11pm
Picked up a 97' KX 125 for FREE about 2 weeks ago. It is a basket case, but it's already come a long way. Have a few questions for everyone. Doing all black frame, swingarm, subframe. As for the motor, no one makes an aftermarket crank any more. Is there anywhere I could send my crank to be rebuilt or does any one know the best case scenario for this situation. Also, does anyone have any special tricks for getting the engine cases looking brand new. They're really dirty, trying to clean them up good before I put it back together. I will upload some pictures of the progress as I go.
Thanks for any input. I'm open to any ideas that I should put into the bike (hubs/wheels, bars, triple clamps, graphics). Any ideas or answers are greatly appreciated!
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Robertford44
Posts
14
Joined
1/15/2016
Location
Loganville, GA, USA
1/15/2016 8:47pm
A few pictures of engine and other misc. parts and pieces. Didn't even have a swing arm bolt when I got it. It was held in by a 6" 3/8 bolt. Got a new air box/boot and swing arm bolt ordered. All new bearings all the way around(wheels, linkage, swing arm, steering stem etc.)








1/16/2016 7:00am Edited Date/Time 1/16/2016 7:06am
I still have the workshop manual for that bike, so if you get stuck on anything when building it up give us a shout, and keep the swingarm silver imo, looks much better, i did a candy green frame on mine, but then cammo'd the swingarm up and it looked shocking lol

Edit, on the crank, check the little white plastic bits, if they're not bust/melted just buy a rod kit and fit it, wouldn't have thought a shop would charge much to supply and fit a rod though, so maybe just send the whole crank assembly out and they can check it's good ?
Robertford44
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14
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1/15/2016
Location
Loganville, GA, USA
1/18/2016 6:26am
Thanks! I will be in touch if I need that manual. As for the crank, it's going to have to be rebuilt no matter what. I haven't split the cases yet but, I can see where water has gotten down in the cases and built up some rust. If I find too much damage inside the cases I may find a used engine and put it in there. It may be cheaper for me to get a used one and rebuilt the crank rather than trying to rebuild a rusted motor.
K-dubbb
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472
Joined
12/10/2013
Location
CA
1/18/2016 10:29am
Wicked I love these retro builds.

If it was me, I'd go full OEM look or the Split Fire Team look.





The Shop

Robertford44
Posts
14
Joined
1/15/2016
Location
Loganville, GA, USA
1/18/2016 6:36pm
Definitely going with the spitfire team look. My graphics guy already got a layout made. I won't post pictures of the proof until it's closer to that time, next warm day we get here in Georgia going to try to start rebuilding the frame. I'm waiting to here from some shops about rebuilding the crank. Ordering new bearings for the internal engine parts this week.
Robertford44
Posts
14
Joined
1/15/2016
Location
Loganville, GA, USA
1/19/2016 8:51am
Got the quote for crank rebuild and port/polish. This build is going to come together nicely. Anyone know if I can restyle plastics for the bike or should I just stick with original since I'm going for the spit fire look?
K-dubbb
Posts
472
Joined
12/10/2013
Location
CA
1/19/2016 12:17pm
Got the quote for crank rebuild and port/polish. This build is going to come together nicely. Anyone know if I can restyle plastics for the bike...
Got the quote for crank rebuild and port/polish. This build is going to come together nicely. Anyone know if I can restyle plastics for the bike or should I just stick with original since I'm going for the spit fire look?
Keep the body style original and allocate your funds towards updating the suspension Smile
Robertford44
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14
Joined
1/15/2016
Location
Loganville, GA, USA
1/19/2016 7:43pm
That's what I was thinking. Suspension will get upgraded, probably not right away but sooner or later it will go get all new internals etc.
RyanLester761
Posts
1128
Joined
2/7/2007
Location
El Dorado Hills, CA, USA
1/20/2016 5:42am
Got the quote for crank rebuild and port/polish. This build is going to come together nicely. Anyone know if I can restyle plastics for the bike...
Got the quote for crank rebuild and port/polish. This build is going to come together nicely. Anyone know if I can restyle plastics for the bike or should I just stick with original since I'm going for the spit fire look?
Please don't paint the frame black! It sounds like you changed your mind on that... I hope! Your bike will look old with a black frame, and swingarm. I would just go stock plastics as well. These are great looking bikes in my opinion. Clean and restored/race replica is the best plan. Wink

Buy yourself a media blast cabinet from Harbor Freight. They are on sale for $189 often. Then, you can use a coupon to save another 20%. Use the glass media. That's what I use for the cases, hubs, brake calipers, etc.

Check out my build thread... http://m.vitalmx.com/forums/Old-School-Moto,22/1995-Splitfire-KX125-Rep…


1
Robertford44
Posts
14
Joined
1/15/2016
Location
Loganville, GA, USA
1/20/2016 6:21am
Got the quote for crank rebuild and port/polish. This build is going to come together nicely. Anyone know if I can restyle plastics for the bike...
Got the quote for crank rebuild and port/polish. This build is going to come together nicely. Anyone know if I can restyle plastics for the bike or should I just stick with original since I'm going for the spit fire look?
Please don't paint the frame black! It sounds like you changed your mind on that... I hope! Your bike will look old with a black frame...
Please don't paint the frame black! It sounds like you changed your mind on that... I hope! Your bike will look old with a black frame, and swingarm. I would just go stock plastics as well. These are great looking bikes in my opinion. Clean and restored/race replica is the best plan. Wink

Buy yourself a media blast cabinet from Harbor Freight. They are on sale for $189 often. Then, you can use a coupon to save another 20%. Use the glass media. That's what I use for the cases, hubs, brake calipers, etc.

Check out my build thread... http://m.vitalmx.com/forums/Old-School-Moto,22/1995-Splitfire-KX125-Rep…


Man that is sweet! I've definitely changed my mind on the black. I do have some questions for you though. How did you get your cases so clean? I already have a stand up blaster that I've been using. Now when you did the triple clamps did you just blast them? And then coat them with engine enamel? And for the hubs, what should I do for them? Blast them and clear them? I'm sure I will have some more questions for you when they come to mind.
RyanLester761
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1128
Joined
2/7/2007
Location
El Dorado Hills, CA, USA
1/20/2016 7:55am
Thanks! It was my first rebuild from the frame up. I'm happy with it. Smile

Good move to stay with the green frame.

As far as the cases and triple clamps... Yes, exactly... I media blasted, rubbed with scotchbrite and then used hi-temp clear coat. I think the can stated "non yellowing", if I remember correctly.
Robertford44
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14
Joined
1/15/2016
Location
Loganville, GA, USA
1/20/2016 3:54pm
Thanks! It was my first rebuild from the frame up. I'm happy with it. :) Good move to stay with the green frame. As far as...
Thanks! It was my first rebuild from the frame up. I'm happy with it. Smile

Good move to stay with the green frame.

As far as the cases and triple clamps... Yes, exactly... I media blasted, rubbed with scotchbrite and then used hi-temp clear coat. I think the can stated "non yellowing", if I remember correctly.
Same here. First complete rebuild & just to clarify I can blast them then scotch brite (which color scotchbrite?) and clear them? Yours turned out awesome so I just want to make sure I get it right
Robertford44
Posts
14
Joined
1/15/2016
Location
Loganville, GA, USA
1/21/2016 3:00pm



After 2 coats it's looking good!

1/21/2016 3:36pm
Good luck with your build! My transition to the 125 class was on a '97 KX125. At 14, weighing 125lbs, I thought that thing was a rocketship!
Looking forward to your progress.
Robertford44
Posts
14
Joined
1/15/2016
Location
Loganville, GA, USA
1/28/2016 8:18pm
UPDATE: the air boot/box have arrived, along with the clutch push rod/bearing, and the engine shut off switch. Hopefully with the warm weekend here in Georgia I can finish the frame blasting. I'm hoping to have the crank sent off within the next 2 weeks to be rebuilt. Still shopping around on quotes for that rebuild. My main focus once I get the crank sent off is to clean the cases up and get the new bearings in so I can get the motor put back together when I get the crank back. Once I get the frame done I will start assembling the easy things (air box, CDI, Ignition, forks, bars). If I can get this thing semi built in the next month I'll be happy. Hoping to have to ready to ride come spring time!
2/1/2016 10:25am
Loving this thread. I'm currently rebuilding an 01 kx 125 that I bought off my friend (probably paid too much lol) but not doing as much as you are frame wise but have been rebuilding the shock/forks/top end to make it more rideable
RyanLester761
Posts
1128
Joined
2/7/2007
Location
El Dorado Hills, CA, USA
2/1/2016 1:33pm Edited Date/Time 2/1/2016 1:34pm
Same here. First complete rebuild & just to clarify I can blast them then scotch brite (which color scotchbrite?) and clear them? Yours turned out awesome...
Same here. First complete rebuild & just to clarify I can blast them then scotch brite (which color scotchbrite?) and clear them? Yours turned out awesome so I just want to make sure I get it right
Red or grey scotchbrite is good. Then, wash followed by clear coat.
Robertford44
Posts
14
Joined
1/15/2016
Location
Loganville, GA, USA
2/2/2016 7:11am
I ran into a problem with the flywheel. It is not coming off. I threaded the puller in all the way as far as it would go. I then started inserting the puller bolt and it screws all the way down to where there are no threads left and I can't tighten it down anymore. It's not even pulling on the fly wheel. I tighten the puller bolt all the way down by hand. I need to know what I need to do next. I really need to get these cases apart soon so I can get this crank sent off.
Tracktor
Posts
2343
Joined
8/17/2006
Location
The RTF/Amboy, WA, USA
2/2/2016 10:08am
Put a spacer between the flywheel puller bolt and crank end?............
Robertford44
Posts
14
Joined
1/15/2016
Location
Loganville, GA, USA
2/6/2016 2:01pm
Got the flywheel off. Put a small socket on the inside for it to push against, and I came off real easy

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