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Anyways I'll try If I can figure out how this CPS system is supposed to be. Unfortunately Reiger doesn't have time do dive into this issue. They still do it on currrent model WP forks. Unless my Reiger rear shock, my forks don't have a stamped ID-code. So it's either going to be build again like on the pictures, or made stock.
By the way Slipdog: In my CPS translation I made a mistake: The left leg, bottom adjuster is compression, not rebound.
my forks are harsh at HighSpeed damping so i guess that i've to modify and the midvalve too, i'm planning to modify the base valve piston to get more flow they seem very restrictive.
rebound check valve
21,5 x 0,40
compression valve
(from piston to base valve)
21 x 0,10
20 x 0,10
19 x 0,10
18 x 0,10
17 x 0,10
16 x 0,10
15 x 0,10
14 x 0,10
13 x 0,10
12 x 0,10
11 x 0,10
17 x 0,15
17 x 1,40
will disassemble the cartridge and report back with the rebound/mid valving.
If anyone could advise me please about base valve revalving?
I'm 90kg's and doing mostly enduro-trail, using 0,46 springs and it feels very harsh (comp/rebound adusters are all fully open) at rocks/bumps/roots. Was thinking to do a two stage valving, what are your opinions and what options do I've? Also i've enlarged the piston holes and now the flow is about 33% more than the original (2mm holes bored o 3mm).
Thanks
The Shop
I needed to take this off to place the spacer, but you won't. However the same counts for the cartridge:
At the place where you're drilling, the diameter of the inner part is actually smaller than the tread.
So if you stop and watch the metal frequently, you'll start tot see a line once you're through. I recommend to take a drill that's a bit larger then the dimple, otherwise you'll drill deeper into the part below.
When you've not drilled far/wide enough, the tread strips off in the hole once you start to rotate the part out. Then just turn it back and drill a bit deeper/wider.
pi * r 2 = 3,14 * 1 * 1 =3,14 square mm
whereas 3,14 * 1,5 * 1,5 = 7 square mm.
So the flow is more than doubled.
What is the reason for that 17x0,15 shim, anyone knows?
The 17.15 on the base is irrelevant to the shim stack and likely only there as a spacer to make sure the top nut tightens all the way without running out of threads on the shaft. Anything under the clamp shim(smallest diameter shim at the bottom of the tapered stack) has no damping effect.
21.1
20.1
12.1
19.1
17.1
15.1
13.1
11.1- clamp
14.1
16.1
17.15
18.1
Use the 12.1 as the crossover and the 14, 16, and 18.1 you remove you just reverse taper after the 11.1 clamp to keep the total height the same as stock. The 18.1 will overhang the base plate slightly, but not cause any issue and you can leave it, or any of the even # shims you remove from the original stack out completely if there's enough threads left on the shaft when you put the nut back on.
any suggestions?
You look to have drilled far enough, but you could go in another millimeter or so on each to make sure. The key is holding it securely with clamps and heat. After 25 years they can be stubborn.
I've access to extra shims so I can build any stack, was thinking something similar to yours, like this just to make the slow speed a bit harder, what other options i could use with different shims?
21.1
21.1
12.1
19.1
17.1
15.1
13.1
11.1- clamp
the rest bellow besides the 20.1
Kinda sad that i cannot get it out as is, was thinking to leave it as is and remove the rebound valve nut by locking the other side of the shaft with two nuts but then i doubt I could get the nut back on the shaft properly so do not want to mess it up.
@Henkies,
will try that out too as soon as i find a good vice
Rebound (from piston to bottom)
21 x 0.10 (5 shims!)
20 x 0.10
18 x 0.10
16 x 0.10
14 x 0.10
12 x 0.10
10 x 0.10
Mid valve
22 x 0.10 (5 shims)
--------------------------------
Thinking to create a two stage using a 14.10 shim between the five 21.10 shims and remove two 21.10 (one for the crossover) or remove the 20.10 instead, what you guys think, is it an ok starting point? Any rebound/mid valve re-valving recommendations are welcome for my kind of use as above would be helpful, thanks!
Do you mean that there were used 5 shims of 21 x 0.10 ?
I'm making my fork stock now and bought another cartridge, which appears to have a 2 stage stack. Are you sure yours is original?
And yes both compression and rebound valves were stock because both lock nuts were still pined from the factory so I had to file them prior disassembly.
Pit Row
Post a reply to: stock shim sequence 93' CR125