Yz250 wheel bearing issues

Blackjack31
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403
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5/21/2017
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Shelby, NC US
Have a yz250 and go through wheel bearings like nobodies business. I’ve heard be careful with the pressure washer but I have a set of aftermarket wheels and I’ve replaced the fronts once in the past year and a half. I go through wheel bearings on my stock wheels every 15ish hours. Mainly my back but The front probably goes out every 25ish. Are stock wheels just not good? Or are my hubs messed up? If my hubs are bored out, can they be fixed or do I need to buy new hubs?
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kb228
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Mansfield, OH US
11/22/2019 8:18am
Something is wrong if theyre going bad that fast.

Make sure your bearings are a press fit in the hubs and not a slip fit. Your axles might be worn down.

Youre buying yamaha bearings and youre replacing the seals too right?
Blackjack31
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Shelby, NC US
11/22/2019 8:51am
kb228 wrote:
Something is wrong if theyre going bad that fast. Make sure your bearings are a press fit in the hubs and not a slip fit. Your...
Something is wrong if theyre going bad that fast.

Make sure your bearings are a press fit in the hubs and not a slip fit. Your axles might be worn down.

Youre buying yamaha bearings and youre replacing the seals too right?
Sorry, what is press fit and slip fit? And I’ve used stock and pivot works. They seem to last the same amount of time.
Premix
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AS US
11/22/2019 12:11pm
The OEM wheel bearings are garbage from Yamaha. Go with pivot works or call local bearing house and give them the measurements and have them set you up with some.
2
Blackjack31
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Shelby, NC US
11/22/2019 12:16pm
Premix wrote:
The OEM wheel bearings are garbage from Yamaha. Go with pivot works or call local bearing house and give them the measurements and have them set...
The OEM wheel bearings are garbage from Yamaha. Go with pivot works or call local bearing house and give them the measurements and have them set you up with some.
Will try that. I’ve tried pivot works and I have about the same amount of luck. Haven’t tried my local bearing house though. Will give that a try.

The Shop

DynoDan22
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775
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9/7/2011
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Victorville, CA US
11/22/2019 4:02pm
These are the most common reasons wheel bearings fail:

1) lack of lube due to water contamination during washing

2) corrosion of races/balls due to water penetration (see above)

3) excessive side load from over tightening and smashing the inner distance collar (aluminum tube in the hub between the two bearings).

4) combination of any above

OP: I believe #3 is your issue. If the bearing crush tube (distance collar) has been smashed from repeatedly overtightening, or it's just old and fatigued, your bike will eat wheel bearings regularly. Changing bearing brands may buy time but they will still fail from the increased side load. My advice is to buy a new OEM wheel bearing bearing spacer (crush tube) and install with new bearings. Measure the old crush tube versus the new and I bet you'll see the old tube is shorter and pinching the bearings. Even .005-.007" puts a tremendous side load on the bearings and drastically reduces bearing life. This crush tube can be seen in the OEM parts diagram and is sandwiched directly between the bearings. It's sole purpose is to prevent side load on the bearings when the axle is tight. If you have aftermarket hubs, obviously you need a new crush tube from that manufacturer. Good luck!
1
mxtech1
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1957
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7/21/2011
Location
Galesburg, IL US
11/22/2019 5:25pm
Take the oil seals off the bearing and post some pictures. Depending on the wear patterns of the ball or cup, can usually figure out what's going on.

If I had to assume, you have same axial play inducing a side load on the bearing. This could be from a worn hub race or bearings not seating straight in the race.

Make sure that when you are pressing in new bearings you have a driver that only contacts the outer race of the bearing. Pressing on the inner race and/or oil seals greatly decreases the life of a bearing.

And lastly, not all bearing are created equal. More than likely your local bearing house is going to sell you the cheapest Chinese match they can and they typically do not last long. OEM bearings are decent quality, so if you are sourcing a bearing locally you need to tell them you want a premium bearing like Timken, SKF, Peer, Etc.
2
Blackjack31
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Shelby, NC US
11/22/2019 7:47pm
DynoDan22 wrote:
These are the most common reasons wheel bearings fail: 1) lack of lube due to water contamination during washing 2) corrosion of races/balls due to water...
These are the most common reasons wheel bearings fail:

1) lack of lube due to water contamination during washing

2) corrosion of races/balls due to water penetration (see above)

3) excessive side load from over tightening and smashing the inner distance collar (aluminum tube in the hub between the two bearings).

4) combination of any above

OP: I believe #3 is your issue. If the bearing crush tube (distance collar) has been smashed from repeatedly overtightening, or it's just old and fatigued, your bike will eat wheel bearings regularly. Changing bearing brands may buy time but they will still fail from the increased side load. My advice is to buy a new OEM wheel bearing bearing spacer (crush tube) and install with new bearings. Measure the old crush tube versus the new and I bet you'll see the old tube is shorter and pinching the bearings. Even .005-.007" puts a tremendous side load on the bearings and drastically reduces bearing life. This crush tube can be seen in the OEM parts diagram and is sandwiched directly between the bearings. It's sole purpose is to prevent side load on the bearings when the axle is tight. If you have aftermarket hubs, obviously you need a new crush tube from that manufacturer. Good luck!
Thanks for the detailed reply! I will buy a new one shortly. I just put new bearings in and next time these go out I will buy one. I could definitely see that being the issue. I tighten the crap out of my axle cause I’m scared of the chain adjuster bolts loosening and throwing my back wheel out of whack. Didn’t even think of this. I bet that’s what it is.
Pirate421
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MA US
11/24/2019 6:09am
I’ll also say I’ve had good luck with a $20 heat gun and putting the bearings in a plastic bag and then throwing them in the freezer overnight before installing them. Heat the hub up a bit and then throw the bearings in straight from the freezer. The freezer will “shrink” the bearing and the heated hub will “expand” enough that the bearings should fall right in then seat them gently with a socket that fits the outside cage and a mallet by tapping very gently.
2
Layton
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Geneseo, IL US
11/26/2019 6:20am
Over tightening any bolt is not good. Get a torque wrench and use it.
2
mattyhamz2
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So Cal, CA US
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11/26/2019 4:11pm
Premix wrote:
The OEM wheel bearings are garbage from Yamaha. Go with pivot works or call local bearing house and give them the measurements and have them set...
The OEM wheel bearings are garbage from Yamaha. Go with pivot works or call local bearing house and give them the measurements and have them set you up with some.
This! Yamaha wheel bearings suck!

OP, also make sure you aren't just cranking down the axle bolts. That won't help your issue either. Bust out a torque wrench.
1
11/26/2019 5:18pm
I think you answered your own question by saying "I tighten the crap out of my axle".. Torque it!

The bearings could be binding too hard causing excess wear. That's my 2 cents just from reading your comments.

I would also buy new wheel spacers just to make sure everything is in spec.

Good luck and let us know!
1
Blackjack31
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403
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Location
Shelby, NC US
11/27/2019 6:01pm
I think you answered your own question by saying "I tighten the crap out of my axle".. Torque it! The bearings could be binding too hard...
I think you answered your own question by saying "I tighten the crap out of my axle".. Torque it!

The bearings could be binding too hard causing excess wear. That's my 2 cents just from reading your comments.

I would also buy new wheel spacers just to make sure everything is in spec.

Good luck and let us know!
I just bought some new spacers and they are in. And I have a torque wrench and torque all my triple clamps bolts. Motor associates bolts, just never axle. Lesson learned I guess. I only race with my DNA wheels so that’s probably why those bearings last so much longer. I’m only putting the gorilla strength on them once every 2 weeks and my other wheels at least once or twice a week.
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