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236
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10/17/2017
Location
Wentzville, MO
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Rohr144
11/22/2017 9:39am
11/22/2017 9:39am
I will be buying a 2006 Yz125 this weekend. Bike looks decent and nothing leaks, or looks too rough. The owner, who is a girl, said she only got to take it out a few times this year on trails. She said the previous owner had a top end done on it with supposedly only an hour on it.. So I'm obviously gonna check the top end and crank play. But are there any common problems with Yz125s from around these years? I've heard that they're usually very reliable.
https://thumpertalk.com/forums/topic/512858-replace-your-shift-stopper/
http://www.vitalmx.com/forums/Moto-Related,20/Yz-125-Issues,1198546
I'm at 410M, 40P, 2AS, 3rd position for most Socal tracks with OE needle on my 2006. Running 50/50 pump and 110 leaded with Bill's Pipe/Silencer and a Vforce3; This should be fine for stock setup as well. In 2011, I believe, Yamaha went to richer global specs on the jetting (and a needle change). They're good bikes
I tried a V-Force reed block and it leaked and sucked air. If you use one of these make sure you seal it up good with Moto-Seal, Ultra-Grey, or some other gas-proof sealant.
As far as other things, the inner clutch hub gets notched pretty easily. Luckily they aren't too expensive. I am on my 3rd or 4th one. The top head bearing seal is a known issue. It allows water past and you end up with a rusty, notchy head bearing. Be careful when washing the bike and use the seal from the YZ250F when you change it. It has a different lip that seals better. Do not run your chain too tight. There is a known issue with the cases breaking around the countershaft bearing. There is another thread on here detailing it. If you weigh more than about 165 or are reasonably fast try to get the stock springs from a YZ250 front and back. Big improvement.
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