Will 2014 engine case fit rmz 2013? Stripped drain bolt

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8/28/2018 4:04 PM

Hi,

So I've managed to strip the threads for one og my draining bolts, and I'm considering buying a new left engine engine case for my rmz 250 2013 mod. I've been looking on ebay and I just found a decent priced one for sale. Only problem is that it is from a rmz 250 2014 mod. So... will it fit my 2013? The rmz engine from 2010 and upwards is the same one, isnt it?

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8/28/2018 5:05 PM
Edited Date/Time: 8/28/2018 5:09 PM

I don’t recommend changing just one case half... when you replace cases they should be done in sets because, (as to my knowledge) they are line bored and finish machined ( correct bearing depth and shaft end play) as a matching set... I think there’s a couple exceptions, but Suzuki sells their cases as a set and should be replaced as a set... an experienced welder/ machinist should be able to weld the stripped hole back up and re machine threads in it for you way cheaper than a set of cases...

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8/28/2018 5:13 PM

When l stripped my oil drain bolt, l just re-tapped it out to the next size up.

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Melbourne, Australia. Current rides: '11 RMZ450, '84 CR500, '06 DRZ400, '79 KX250 with 400 engine, '06 GSXR1000 full Yosh racebike.

8/28/2018 7:06 PM

Paul_Pitzonka wrote:

I don’t recommend changing just one case half... when you replace cases they should be done in sets because, (as to my knowledge) they are line bored and finish machined ( correct bearing depth and shaft end play) as a matching set... I think there’s a couple exceptions, but Suzuki sells their cases as a set and should be replaced as a set... an experienced welder/ machinist should be able to weld the stripped hole back up and re machine threads in it for you way cheaper than a set of cases...

X2

Paw Paw

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8/29/2018 6:15 AM

take your case to a shop and have them weld it and re-tap the hole. Im pretty sure you need matching cases for zooks.

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8/29/2018 11:08 AM

Johnny89superbike wrote:

When l stripped my oil drain bolt, l just re-tapped it out to the next size up.

I would just re-tap it but looks like previous owner already did that from 12mm to 14mm (which is probably the reason it broke again). So there is very little metal to retap, and besides I cant seem to find any 15mm drain bolt that would fit if I retapped it up to 15.

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8/29/2018 11:09 AM

Paul_Pitzonka wrote:

I don’t recommend changing just one case half... when you replace cases they should be done in sets because, (as to my knowledge) they are line bored and finish machined ( correct bearing depth and shaft end play) as a matching set... I think there’s a couple exceptions, but Suzuki sells their cases as a set and should be replaced as a set... an experienced welder/ machinist should be able to weld the stripped hole back up and re machine threads in it for you way cheaper than a set of cases...

Thanks for the advice!

I will take your advice and deliver the case to a shop that can fix it properly (weld and tap new threads). The only problem is that this will take some time. There is already a few weeks waiting time at the shops around here, and before they get the job done im afraid the season here in Norway will already be over.. I dont want to wait for weeks and miss out on riding, especially now that I have some free time. So I was thinking about trying the helicoil solution as a temporary fix, and when the winter settles and the track closes down I’ll send it to the shop for proper repair. I’ve read that the helicoils can eventually fall out and that its therefore better to not unscrew the bolt after tightened. Thus I plan on using the second drain hole to drain the oil, but im not sure if it will get it all out. Any thoughts?

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8/29/2018 12:27 PM
Edited Date/Time: 8/29/2018 12:31 PM

Paul_Pitzonka wrote:

I don’t recommend changing just one case half... when you replace cases they should be done in sets because, (as to my knowledge) they are line bored and finish machined ( correct bearing depth and shaft end play) as a matching set... I think there’s a couple exceptions, but Suzuki sells their cases as a set and should be replaced as a set... an experienced welder/ machinist should be able to weld the stripped hole back up and re machine threads in it for you way cheaper than a set of cases...

Antoni-Berg wrote:

Thanks for the advice!

I will take your advice and deliver the case to a shop that can fix it properly (weld and tap new threads). The only problem is that this will take some time. There is already a few weeks waiting time at the shops around here, and before they get the job done im afraid the season here in Norway will already be over.. I dont want to wait for weeks and miss out on riding, especially now that I have some free time. So I was thinking about trying the helicoil solution as a temporary fix, and when the winter settles and the track closes down I’ll send it to the shop for proper repair. I’ve read that the helicoils can eventually fall out and that its therefore better to not unscrew the bolt after tightened. Thus I plan on using the second drain hole to drain the oil, but im not sure if it will get it all out. Any thoughts?

Norway! What a an absolutely gorgeous place... spent a few months there throughout my life... I’ve never tried the helicoil solution on a drain plug just because as you stated it will eventually pull out... but as a bandaide fix it might be possible... I would just keep an eye on the bolt to make sure it’s not backing out... I’m assuming you are referring to the oil screen as the second drain location... I would think you should be able to get 99 percent of the oil out of the bike if you lean it over on it’s side and let it drain for an extended period out of that hole... just a guess though

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8/29/2018 2:43 PM
Edited Date/Time: 8/29/2018 2:46 PM

Paul_Pitzonka wrote:

I don’t recommend changing just one case half... when you replace cases they should be done in sets because, (as to my knowledge) they are line bored and finish machined ( correct bearing depth and shaft end play) as a matching set... I think there’s a couple exceptions, but Suzuki sells their cases as a set and should be replaced as a set... an experienced welder/ machinist should be able to weld the stripped hole back up and re machine threads in it for you way cheaper than a set of cases...

Antoni-Berg wrote:

Thanks for the advice!

I will take your advice and deliver the case to a shop that can fix it properly (weld and tap new threads). The only problem is that this will take some time. There is already a few weeks waiting time at the shops around here, and before they get the job done im afraid the season here in Norway will already be over.. I dont want to wait for weeks and miss out on riding, especially now that I have some free time. So I was thinking about trying the helicoil solution as a temporary fix, and when the winter settles and the track closes down I’ll send it to the shop for proper repair. I’ve read that the helicoils can eventually fall out and that its therefore better to not unscrew the bolt after tightened. Thus I plan on using the second drain hole to drain the oil, but im not sure if it will get it all out. Any thoughts?

Try a Time Sert Big Sert. Normal time serts are drilled out to the next size hole and then tapped and the insert is installed. A big Sert is the same thing only has thicker walls for when the original next size hole gets damaged or screwed up.

http://www.timesert.com/html/drainplug.html

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