What main things should i check over on my bike after buying it used

Generally a good idea to chuck a new top end in, unless you 100% know of current top end hours.
Alternatively remove the exhaust and have a look at the piston condition through the exhaust port.

Replacing all the fluids is cheap but beneficial.
Complete bolt check
Spoke check to avoid wheel failures
Remove and grease all the axles and pivot bolts

RussB wrote:

Generally a good idea to chuck a new top end in, unless you 100% know of current top end hours.
Alternatively remove the exhaust and have a look at the piston condition through the exhaust port.

Replacing all the fluids is cheap but beneficial.
Complete bolt check
Spoke check to avoid wheel failures
Remove and grease all the axles and pivot bolts

X2

Paw Paw

RussB wrote:

Generally a good idea to chuck a new top end in, unless you 100% know of current top end hours.
Alternatively remove the exhaust and have a look at the piston condition through the exhaust port.

Replacing all the fluids is cheap but beneficial.
Complete bolt check
Spoke check to avoid wheel failures
Remove and grease all the axles and pivot bolts

thanks!

RussB wrote:

Generally a good idea to chuck a new top end in, unless you 100% know of current top end hours.
Alternatively remove the exhaust and have a look at the piston condition through the exhaust port.

Replacing all the fluids is cheap but beneficial.
Complete bolt check
Spoke check to avoid wheel failures
Remove and grease all the axles and pivot bolts

Paw Paw 271 wrote:

X2

Paw Paw

This and.....

The air filter and air boot, the play in the swingarm bearings, chain wear... seems like basic stuff but keeping on top of maintenance will keep above in top shape

Get a new air filter and clean the airboot and airbox of any dust or crud that built up. The filter is the only line of defense from sucking dirt in and ruining a good engine.

Check for any cracks in the boot as well as the reed cage.

Compression check and record the readings for future use.

New top end and check clearance spec on rod and see if there is any up and down play in the ignition rotor. Pull the clutch and inspect plates for wear. Jetting.

RussB wrote:

Generally a good idea to chuck a new top end in, unless you 100% know of current top end hours.
Alternatively remove the exhaust and have a look at the piston condition through the exhaust port.

Replacing all the fluids is cheap but beneficial.
Complete bolt check
Spoke check to avoid wheel failures
Remove and grease all the axles and pivot bolts

Paw Paw 271 wrote:

X2

Paw Paw

mwssquad827 wrote:

This and.....

The air filter and air boot, the play in the swingarm bearings, chain wear... seems like basic stuff but keeping on top of maintenance will keep above in top shape

X2000000

RussB wrote:

Generally a good idea to chuck a new top end in, unless you 100% know of current top end hours.
Alternatively remove the exhaust and have a look at the piston condition through the exhaust port.

Replacing all the fluids is cheap but beneficial.
Complete bolt check
Spoke check to avoid wheel failures
Remove and grease all the axles and pivot bolts

Paw Paw 271 wrote:

X2

Paw Paw

mwssquad827 wrote:

This and.....

The air filter and air boot, the play in the swingarm bearings, chain wear... seems like basic stuff but keeping on top of maintenance will keep above in top shape

After every ride i clean the air filter and oil it. I have no side to side play in the swing arm however i do have up and down play where the lower shock bearing connects to the swing arm. Is this ok to still ride? I do plan on buying bearings for that and a few other small things to touch up the bike so im not so paranoid. So far nothing looks bad just small things like leaky fork seals and hydraulic clutch cylinder gasket. Not sure if this changes anything

Paw Paw 271 wrote:

X2

Paw Paw

mwssquad827 wrote:

This and.....

The air filter and air boot, the play in the swingarm bearings, chain wear... seems like basic stuff but keeping on top of maintenance will keep above in top shape

jamesdry wrote:

After every ride i clean the air filter and oil it. I have no side to side play in the swing arm however i do have up and down play where the lower shock bearing connects to the swing arm. Is this ok to still ride? I do plan on buying bearings for that and a few other small things to touch up the bike so im not so paranoid. So far nothing looks bad just small things like leaky fork seals and hydraulic clutch cylinder gasket. Not sure if this changes anything

I mean you could ride it like that if you are riding say “tomorrow” but i would replace the bearings on the shock top and bottom and even linkage bearings to be sure. Bearing kits for both are less than $100 or so. But will save you hundreds in the long run when you have to buy a new shock body and linkage setup.

A trick to change out the bearings is use a socket the size of the outter race of the bearing and use a bigger socket and put it all in a vise clamp and push them out. Thats how i did my shock bearings on my bike...

RussB wrote:

Generally a good idea to chuck a new top end in, unless you 100% know of current top end hours.
Alternatively remove the exhaust and have a look at the piston condition through the exhaust port.

Replacing all the fluids is cheap but beneficial.
Complete bolt check
Spoke check to avoid wheel failures
Remove and grease all the axles and pivot bolts

I took the expansion chamber off and this is what the piston looks like. I am not too sure if you can tell whether its good or not ill just let you take a look.

mwssquad827 wrote:

This and.....

The air filter and air boot, the play in the swingarm bearings, chain wear... seems like basic stuff but keeping on top of maintenance will keep above in top shape

jamesdry wrote:

After every ride i clean the air filter and oil it. I have no side to side play in the swing arm however i do have up and down play where the lower shock bearing connects to the swing arm. Is this ok to still ride? I do plan on buying bearings for that and a few other small things to touch up the bike so im not so paranoid. So far nothing looks bad just small things like leaky fork seals and hydraulic clutch cylinder gasket. Not sure if this changes anything

Alec138 wrote:

I mean you could ride it like that if you are riding say “tomorrow” but i would replace the bearings on the shock top and bottom and even linkage bearings to be sure. Bearing kits for both are less than $100 or so. But will save you hundreds in the long run when you have to buy a new shock body and linkage setup.

A trick to change out the bearings is use a socket the size of the outter race of the bearing and use a bigger socket and put it all in a vise clamp and push them out. Thats how i did my shock bearings on my bike...

Thanks! im definitely going to buy the rear lower shock bearings and fix up the small other problems. Should be able to do everything with under $200

jamesdry wrote:

I took the expansion chamber off and this is what the piston looks like. I am not too sure if you can tell whether its good or not ill just let you take a look.

It doesn't look too bad from those photos. Not much 'blow by' so the rings are still doing their job.

But I would strongly recommend doing the top end within the next 10 hours of ride time. A small investment in time and money but has to potential to save a whole world of future issues. A piston failure will cost a lot more to fix than a new top end. And as above, it will also give you the opportunity to check the condition of the bottom end, so you can get a rough idea how much longer you can ride before that needs doing.

Don’t let the linkage bearings sit too long. The shock bolt can be a major pita to get out if it’s seized or corroded in there.

RussB wrote:

Generally a good idea to chuck a new top end in, unless you 100% know of current top end hours.
Alternatively remove the exhaust and have a look at the piston condition through the exhaust port.

Replacing all the fluids is cheap but beneficial.
Complete bolt check
Spoke check to avoid wheel failures
Remove and grease all the axles and pivot bolts

jamesdry wrote:

I took the expansion chamber off and this is what the piston looks like. I am not too sure if you can tell whether its good or not ill just let you take a look.

RussB wrote:

It doesn't look too bad from those photos. Not much 'blow by' so the rings are still doing their job.

But I would strongly recommend doing the top end within the next 10 hours of ride time. A small investment in time and money but has to potential to save a whole world of future issues. A piston failure will cost a lot more to fix than a new top end. And as above, it will also give you the opportunity to check the condition of the bottom end, so you can get a rough idea how much longer you can ride before that needs doing.

Thanks! i was actually planning to do the top end in 10 hours anyway.

TrailDigger wrote:

Don’t let the linkage bearings sit too long. The shock bolt can be a major pita to get out if it’s seized or corroded in there.

My bike has no linkage, the shock bolts directly onto the swingarm not sure if this changes anything?