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Hello,
I would understand if this topic has been debated to death, but a quick search didn't give me a result so here we go
Without having limitless funds and time, buying the right stuff is of course important.
I'm today on a CRF250R ('20) weigh 180lbs without riding gear, so I guess stock springs rates 4.8 and 52 is on the limit for what it was tuned for from the factory.
My theory is that with stiffer springs I could run less pre-load and thus get a softer ride on the small bumps (initial travel).
BUT, the big question is, the above are OEM springs that came on the bike, if I move to 3rd party, Factory Connection, K-Tech etc. with a small variance allowed in spring rates, is it possible that a 5.0 After Market rear spring would be almost same as 4.8 OEM?
I.e, I guess the big question is, if not possible to try out many springs, is it better to go with a 0.4 increase for the springs (front and rear) and run little pre-load? Is there a possibility that buying new springs with a .2 increase might result in almost no change?
Happy for any thoughts/feedback!
I would understand if this topic has been debated to death, but a quick search didn't give me a result so here we go
Without having limitless funds and time, buying the right stuff is of course important.
I'm today on a CRF250R ('20) weigh 180lbs without riding gear, so I guess stock springs rates 4.8 and 52 is on the limit for what it was tuned for from the factory.
My theory is that with stiffer springs I could run less pre-load and thus get a softer ride on the small bumps (initial travel).
BUT, the big question is, the above are OEM springs that came on the bike, if I move to 3rd party, Factory Connection, K-Tech etc. with a small variance allowed in spring rates, is it possible that a 5.0 After Market rear spring would be almost same as 4.8 OEM?
I.e, I guess the big question is, if not possible to try out many springs, is it better to go with a 0.4 increase for the springs (front and rear) and run little pre-load? Is there a possibility that buying new springs with a .2 increase might result in almost no change?
Happy for any thoughts/feedback!
Valving changes would help the most with small bumps and initial travel/feel.
If you buy your springs from a good manufacturer like those mentioned, the spring rate will be accurate, i.e a 5.0 will be a 5.0.
Get valving done at the same time as springs to make sure you have a noticeable and effective difference.
My thinking was that the spring action would be swifter/smoother in the beginning of the stroke compared to with more pre-load I'm further down the stroke so to say, but I get what you are saying. Ride height doesn't change stiffness.
Happy new year! Soon 2021!
The Shop
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/784204/Honda-Crf250r.html?page=114#ma…
These settings are not the bike manufacture, but the Suspension manufacture.
Go up one spring rate, that will be fine. And if you are above 7.5-8mm preload right now you will get a more plush ride over lsc bumps with stiffer springs and less preload. 5-7mm preload is sweet spot.
When your spring is correct, your race sag (you and gear on the bike) should be set to about 100mm (4 inches,) and your static sag (bike by itself,) should be between 1 and 1.5 inches. If you have to crank down on your spring to achieve 100mm of race sag and then your static sag is zero or less than an inch, your spring is too soft/light. If you run a stiffer spring like you are suggesting but the static sag is more than 1.5 inches, your spring is likely too stiff/heavy.
Post a reply to: Spring rates on the limit - oem/aftermarket and more.