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11/17/2016
Location
Rancho Cucamonga, CA
US
Edited Date/Time
5/25/2020 4:00pm
The forks on my dad's 2015 Honda CRF450 need a service and there aren't any videos or much info I could find on servicing these forks. Rocky Mountain has a good video on the PSF-1 but I'm not sure how different the internals are. They don't look horrible to work with but I have never worked on suspension before and wonder if any of ya'll have serviced these forks and if you had any tips. There's a weird OEM Honda tool in the Manual being used and was wondering if anybody knew what to use instead of that because I'm sure it's expensive. Also what fork oil does this bike take? 5W? I'd like to note that we've had bad luck with the OEM Honda seals on this bike for some reason and are going to try SKF. Very frustrating paying $200 for a service and only going three rides before they are leaking again. The OEM Honda seals on my 2017 are almost a year old.
The Shop
What fork oil do I need for this bike??
Got all my parts and tools just confused on what oil to use. 5W? 10W? I don't know the difference. Or if anyone has used Honda's oil which SS? Would really appreciate some help as there is very limited info on these forks. The manual has good step by step procedure but I'm still confused on the oil because it only lists a KYB part #
https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/1065/42684/Kayaba-KYB-01M-Fork-Oil
Or maxima 85/150, Golden Spectro Cartridge fluid 85/150.....all considered 5w and close on specs
You want a 5w
So the PSF-2, the second generation of the KYB air fork, is like an open bath KYB fork without the spring.
Meaning, it has a semi closed cartridge on the bottom with the rod connecting to the cap.
Doing a fork seal and bushing replacement would just mean removing the cap and separating the tubes. Doing a full oil change would mean removing the cartridge and that means the right tool for removing the base bolt (base valve assembly) as well as holding the cartridge. Both are shown in this photo.
The thing with the t-handle tool is that it's a very deep socket that needs to accommodate the height of the seal head and rod.
I'll post some additional photos after this one...
One of the best tool to have in your box is an aluminum adjustable wrench.
https://www.summitracing.com/search/part-type/an-wrenches-adjustable
Pit Row
It's so true that I even wrote a book about it.
You can use a cartridge holding clamp (shaped aluminum clamps to the OD of the cartridge) as a delicate third hand, (which you don't need) but never as anything that you would ever apply any force to.
The only force applied would be to the base valve assembly and the seal head. Nothing else.
I have a rule that no cartridge tube is ever clamped. Even just bumping into it can cause damage.
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