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139cc cr125.
Send to:
STIC Fuel Systems
P.O. Box 1119 (if by mail) (3730 Hemlock Lane if by another carrier)
Eagle River, Wisconsin 54521
The Shop
50 pilot
Ne3j (?) the std needle they send 3rd clip
3.5 air screw
7 slide
Has anyone gotten the yz125 dialed in with stic? Mine came with a yellow N3EJ needle in the 3rd position, 200 main, and 65 pilot. Ive switched to a 50 pilot, and the purple N3WJ needle in the 3rd position. Still not getting any better. (From what I’ve read online, the problem is related to the float not being set correctly) but from my understanding, I set the float correctly. My bike keeps bogging down off the faces of jumps, whenever I “G out” in bottoms of valleys (gravity cavities) backsides of rollers, or when I flat land. Pretty much any time my suspension compresses and I’m on the gas, it bogs out. I turned the idle up thinking that was related. Ive tried the two different needles that came with my kit. I’ve tried up and down all the way on both needles from richest to leanest positions. I’ve tried the fuel screw all the way out, I’ve tried the fuel screw almost all the way in. What could be causing this? I’m scared to hit any jumps on this bike now 🤦♂️ Also when it does bog and sends me off jumps like Ronny Mac, I can’t panic rev it back, the bike just cuts out and doesn’t have a clean panic rev
https://youtu.be/cr2YtCWmwYc?si=2TCHo-UAmPoVBSSh
Looks like @dfree is getting it figured out. He posted this over on TT.
Hey yall! I believe the problem was too lean. I ended up swapping the yellow N3EJ needle out with a purple N3WJ, I have it in the 2nd position. Went from a 195 main to a 205 main and went from a 50 pilot to a 55 pilot. She seems to be liking this set up. No more bogging off jumps and stuff. Might be a little to rich on the bottom, thinking of drop down to a 52 pilot this weekend to see if I can leave the turns in 3rd gear with a little less feathering of the clutch. All in all I’m pretty happy with these settings all around the track 🤘🏻
Yessir, pretty good so far, might even go fatter on the main! I was talking with Derek at hp performance and he suggested I could even try running the stock needle from the mikuni (6BFY43-74) with the stic pwk. So before I drop my 55 pilot down to a 52, I want to try changing the needle out. Going to test this out Sunday morning, as well as test a 210 main out. But as of now, my bike is pretty happy with the 55 pilot, 205 main, purple N3WJ needle in the second position. Once I dial the jetting in, I’m also going to test out my apex head with the mx and sx domes. Last time I tried this head I melted the piston within 30 minutes. I have switched to 100LL aviation fuel mixed 50/50 with 93 at 32:1. Hoping that with jetting dialed in, and higher octane, the piston doesn’t melt lol
Red and WJ needle are a pretty happy place. Not so much on the Mikuni's. Over on TT, search that STIC it...thread for crewjones. He contacted me on nearly the daily for over a year. He did rigorous proper testing, ie one change at a time and Apex domes were used. Those Mikuni needles, we didn't like those and you'll be chasing settings. UK guys liked them for their UK fuel, but they admit to soft on lug factor and rich at lower rpm range. Crew ended up with red and WJ dropped to 1clip, 52p and AS @ 2 out as a foundation. This way you only tune with the main. This method works for all CC's. If you use the 55, which is not a thing, you will need to go with bigger main, as to compensate. For the STIC, the bigger you go, it will be getting leaner. So, to make that 55 work, you'll be going to a bigger main than is the norm. Crew had Matt and George work together on his setup specs. Matt test rode crew's 125 on track and trail. He said it was crisp, torquey and rev'd out hard. So Crew settings are the standard to go by. Or not lol
I can’t find crew to ask him questions, could you respond with a link maybe? I guess I’ll need to try a red needle out and a 52 pilot. I dropped down to my 50 and the bog off jump faces came back. went back to the 55 and dropped to the 1st position on the needle. I’m still having to feather the clutch a lot when I leave turns though, but the jump face bog went away. Why is a 55 not a thing? Matt says that’s what he usually ends up with.. heck, George sent me the carb with a 65 pilot installed but it also had the yellow needle which is lean as hell. Im still trying to get this thing dialed in perfectly, can’t figure it out.. I wish JD jetting made a kit with instructions for the newest model.
Bout ready to put this stic super x carb up for sale and go back to my mikuni
BTW, that original needle has been replaced with the purple(N3WJ). It gets to a steeper tapper earlier. Fuller bottom and it feeds the thirsty 125 into a stronger mid to top. JD stic red is also an improvement.
6.5 slides help the off idle into low end rip. 7+ are nice for the 200cc+.
Great to see an OG resurface.
Hold up, lol You asked about the STIC, not the STIC X. That's why I said the 55 is not a thing. You need to post in the Super X threads hear and on ktmtalk.
So, 65+ pilots with the right air correction jet is where you want to be. Prolly have the 85 ACJ. If the model you have lacks the ACJ passage(std X), you adjust the AS out further for bigger pilots.
Regarding the needle diameter selection. On the meter blocks, .0063"-ish orifice(tube exit) gap is the target. To mimic that with the X, you need to try the white or something slightly richer. Purple may work, but only if or bc the X has more tweaks available, ie a larger main will lean fueling and then the pilot reversion flow needs to be increased as to compensate.
Unfortunately, STIC block user settings, like needles and mains are the only aspect that apply. And you won't find any 125's tuned with a the big gun .1147" tube.
I see Georges post, but the biggest power gains are with the .115 tube. Previously the .113 tube couldn't support the early rpm thirst of the 125. But, the X passage feeds that reverse pilot jet vapor sourcing to the main circuit.
Anywho, if using the big gun .115, it requires a needle lean enough tfor a proper tube orifice gap of under .007". Think white needle or slightly richer with a earlier fuel dump. 125's are thirsty quite earlier. Gotta have it or the transition to the midrange balks.
The 114 and the purple(N3WJ) has an ideal .0065" tube orifice gap. Too big has lazy response.
From working with a 125X rider extensively. I'll suggest trying the base as needle @1clip position, AS @2 out, 52p and then only tune with the main, step by step from 198 thru 210. This base keeps you from confusing things. Taking the main up until plug is not too rich, then move up further to see if it gets lazy or flat into the upper mid to top. Then go back one step. If that gets the quick pull of the last smaller but previous rich main. You're golden.
STIC Needle List.
1 Leanest White (New) (III I) top (.1083") bottom (.059”) * Best overall, 125, 250, 300.
2 Lean Yellow (New) N3EJ top (.1080") bottom (.064”) * Best for125, 250, 300.
3 Richer Purple (New) N3WJ top (.1079") bottom (.059”) * Best for 125, 250, 300.
3 Richer Red (II-II) top (.1075") bottom (.058”) * Best (2)
4 Richest Blue (IIII) top (.1065”) bottom (.060”) * (Best for 500CC engine combinations).
There will be a test report coming out from the "Five Guys" from California. These guys are in a riding group and have different bikes ranging from 250cc to 300s with different modifications ranging from different heads, different compression ratios, and similar jetting, and they all have the STIC Super "X".
Pit Row
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