Rm250 no spark

Miamiraider
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11/9/2019 10:04am Edited Date/Time 11/11/2019 11:38am
Need a lil help. It’s a 2006 rm250. Brand new oem stator, coil and spark plug. All the readings check out fine as per the manual. I’m not getting a reading from the white/blue cable to the spark plug cap. I took off the plug and stuck the probe directly into the cable and nothing. No spark at all when I press the kick start I get a sporadic minimal current I can feel with my finger tips . The kill switch has been taken off. I’m puzzled. Any help please.
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Paw Paw 271
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11/9/2019 10:16am
I suggest you start over from scratch.
First do an ohms reading on the primary and secondary side of the ignition coil.
Make sure engine mounts as well as ignition coil mounts are clean , rust free and are not painted over.
I suggest that your statement about the plug wire suggest the issue at hand.
Was your flywheel clean and free of rust?

Paw Paw
Miamiraider
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11/9/2019 11:16am
Thanks. I sanded the mounted were the coil goes make sure it has good contact. The flywheel is clean and stator lines up to mark. I am just not getting any spark tried another coil same issue.


Paw Paw 271
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11/9/2019 2:14pm Edited Date/Time 11/9/2019 2:16pm
Disconnect the kill switch and recheck for spark.
Did you also replace the ignition coil spark plug wire and boot?
You can try this....Remove the spark plug cap, it will unscrew. Then trim 1/4" off the wire and then reinstall the plug cap and check for spark.
FYI... That does not look like an OEM stator. It looks to have been rewired.
Paw Paw

Miamiraider
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11/9/2019 3:19pm
Yes I trimmed the wire took off bout 1/4 tried and didn’t get any readings. Put my finger tip on wire and I got a faint current when pressing down on kick start but it was not a constant current. I ordered a new oem Suzuki stator not rebuilt not aftermarket. kill switch has been off from the beginning. The spark plug cap has been changed and nothing.

The Shop

Paw Paw 271
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11/9/2019 3:46pm Edited Date/Time 11/9/2019 3:49pm
So, what were the ignition coil OHMs readings on the primary and the secondary sides?
Have you compared the old stator to the "new" stator? It just does not look correct to me.
Check your kill switch wires to be sure they are not grounded out somewhere.

Paw Paw
Miamiraider
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11/10/2019 5:39am
Stator readings.
Red/green 100.4 range (72-127).
Black/red & red/white 32.6 range (24-40).
Yellow & black/white 2.4 range (1.6-2.6).
Coil white/blue & black/white .3 range (.17-.70).
White/blue to end of cap wire no reading 0 with cap on still 0 no reading. That is were I’m stuck everything checks out till the end no reading
harescrambled
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Fantasy
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11/10/2019 8:59am Edited Date/Time 11/10/2019 9:00am
Stator readings. Red/green 100.4 range (72-127). Black/red & red/white 32.6 range (24-40). Yellow & black/white 2.4 range (1.6-2.6). Coil white/blue & black/white .3 range (.17-.70). White/blue...
Stator readings.
Red/green 100.4 range (72-127).
Black/red & red/white 32.6 range (24-40).
Yellow & black/white 2.4 range (1.6-2.6).
Coil white/blue & black/white .3 range (.17-.70).
White/blue to end of cap wire no reading 0 with cap on still 0 no reading. That is were I’m stuck everything checks out till the end no reading
The troubleshooting procedure in the manual gives specific voltages for the coils, as well as resistance values. The white/blue to plug cap should be 13k-20k ohms resistance so you need to be on the 1k ohm range to properly check that

If you don't have a manual I have it in PDF and I can email it to ya
Miamiraider
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11/10/2019 9:14am
Thanks I have the manual that is where I got all the ranges for the stator and coil. Coil primary reading are within specs at .3 the white/blue to cap is where I am not getting anything. Trimmed the wire changed the cap tried a different coil sanded the frame where coil is attached
beamer
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Squaw River CA
11/10/2019 9:20am
Somewhere along the line I read of someone on this forum with a similar problem. If I remember right it came down to the flywheel losing its polarity( or whatever it’s called) Not sure how you would even test that other than borrow one off a bike that is running
Miamiraider
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Miami, FL US
11/10/2019 10:15am
Yes I read that too somewhere about losing polarity of the flywheel. I guess I have to try another one out. Thanks for all the responses. I am going to disassemble everything again and try one more time.
Paul_Pitzonka
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Grand Terrace, CA US
11/10/2019 11:02am
Thanks I have the manual that is where I got all the ranges for the stator and coil. Coil primary reading are within specs at .3...
Thanks I have the manual that is where I got all the ranges for the stator and coil. Coil primary reading are within specs at .3 the white/blue to cap is where I am not getting anything. Trimmed the wire changed the cap tried a different coil sanded the frame where coil is attached
I believe the black/white wire (not blue/white) to the plug lead is used for the secondary coil measurement... also out of curiosity how fast are you spinning the engine... I prefer peak voltage tests Over resistance tests when checking stators; as I’ve seem them measure correct resistance, but not put out enough voltage... it’s also possible you have a failing CDI... strongly doubt you have a flywheel that has demagnetized...
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Miamiraider
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11/10/2019 11:40am
I went by the manual white/blue to cap.
Paul_Pitzonka
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11/10/2019 11:44am
I went by the manual white/blue to cap. [img]https://p.vitalmx.com/photos/forums/2019/11/10/384269/s1200_B4694B69_AFAE_42AF_8B0D_AF431BC146F8.jpg[/img]
I went by the manual white/blue to cap.
Sorry the older models were black/white to cap they must have made a change at some point...
Miamiraider
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Miami, FL US
11/11/2019 11:38am
Thanks to all of you that responded. I don’t know what I did different this time around but I got spark coming from the plug and the bike finally started. Thanks God cuz I was about to throw in the towel. Happiness is the sound of a two stroke.
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