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Only $10 for all 2024 SX, MX, and SMX series (regularly $30).
I just tape up the ends of the connectors with black gorilla tape, so they don't pack up with mud, and then zip-ty them out of the way.
You won't have to buy a new head if you make a mistake. There is enough material in the head to fix it a couple of times, but take your time on the measurements.
BTW, I flew into Denver a couple of weeks ago to go sking in Winter Park. That 9000'+ of elevation is tough to get use to.
Yeah its crazy up here. I ride trails with this bike a decent amount too and it its up at about 9500.
Hiking at 12k+ get you winded pretty quick.
I have the 04 manual I'm not sure what needles they ran but it should have a needle chart in it.
I have the 03 manual on the way so it should show the needle chart for the N8xx ones.
From my understanding each letter means a different diameter in a different place. Its not just go up one needle to be leaner everywhere. Like one needle leaner from stock could have the same two tapers but the straight portion can be a little fatter making it a touch leaner. So then I can see where I am having trouble within my throttle and use calipers to get lean or rich where I want but just right in another area.
Yes, each letter of the oem jetting codes , for the most part, has a meaning. The 1st and 2nd letter/number define the needle series, amount of tapers and their angles, N3,NE, N8 etc... The 3rd letter/ # is the clip height or L-1, and the last letter is the starting diameter. Honestly, it can pretty complicated and convoluted sometimes. For example Kawasaki's N3xx series needles are a triple taper and very similar to Suzuki's NExx needles. While Yamaha's N3xx needles are a duel taper needle and are similar to Suzuki N8xx and KTM N4xx needles.
Suzuki's NExx needles are from the later model RM250's.
https://www.motosport.com/dirtbike/oem-parts/suzuki/2007/rm250/carburet…
The Shop
Truthfully I think I want it to hit as hard as it can. At the 5000 elevation mark people say any motor is about 20% down on power from sea level. So I know a 200sx and a 250 have different power characteristics but a 200 2stroke would be 80% the motor size. The way it is right now at least it seems pretty slow compared to my 450 I ride. This could all change if I get it running right. People also say it does good to turn the power valve spring in some. I don't remember how much they say to, I don't pay attention. Maybe I should try that though I may end up liking it. Personally I think lots of power is just fun even if it is harder to ride.
I kind of wonder when tuning and trying to find the right needle sometimes is it better to, say if your in the 3rd clip in the NECH needle, to instead of going to the second clip go to the 3rd clip of the NEDW.
In terms of going from an NECH to an NEDW, well you're doing a couple of things at once. An NEDH in clip 3 is 1/2 a clip richer than an NECH, so you will richen your mid throttle. But then going from a H needle to a W needle will lean out your 1/4 throttle position.
Do you have a manual? All of this is explained in there and makes understanding the needles a lot easier. If you don't have a manual then definitely order one.
Yeah I have the powervalve spring turned out at the moment which is what stock is I think.
I have the 04 manual which I need to go through, not sure if the 04's came with the NExx needles yet.
I have the 03 manual coming, I just ordered it from ebay. I could not find one before, but I know it will have the diagram for the N8xx needles so not what I will want to use. I'm pretty sure I can find a late model RM manual online pdf so I could look through it and print it the needle pages.
1.70mm could be why it’s not running quite the best
here is a pic of the head and cylinder.
Exhaust side is the black side is that normal? Too rich?
Cylinder walls look good
Any special way to box up the head and slide? Just bubble wrap and put in a box should be fine right?
Thanks
Can anybody comment on how the head looks with all the oily substance on top? Is that normal?
ordered the NECH needle and a 160main. Some how I did not have a 160 in my collection I had a 158 and like 4-162s
Got the head back it looks really good. Did a squish test but need to measure it.
Got the carb back together
Rejected at
162 main
Nech 3rd clip
45 pilot
Slide 7.0
Do I need to get a screw with the threads the same as this solonoid thing to block off the power jet?
There is no need to remove the solenoid that you have pictured. I leave them right in and zipty the wiring out of the way. Right underneath the plunger part of the solenoid there is a small jet( power jet) that unscrews. That is the passage way that needs to be block with a hex headed set screw.
Pit Row
Plus I got new race tech springs for my weight and the suspension was sooooo much better. Felt almost like a new bike, well close haha.
Thanks again digger and digger29 for the help. Would have never gotten it done with out you guys.
Are you using the bike with the power jet unplugged and blocked?
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