Pro circuit showa air tac sff upgrade instal

spimx
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Port Isabel, TX US
5/23/2020 8:36am Edited Date/Time 5/27/2020 5:45pm
Does anyone have experience with this kit? I got it in the mail yesterday and I'm going to install it tomorrow. Only problem is it came with no instructions.

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OLDMOTO
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San Diego, CA US
5/23/2020 10:41am
I had it on my 2016 KX450F. Worked much better. I had PC re-valve and install the kit. Its not hard to work on these forks. Look on Youtube, there may be a video. I also ended up putting in a Racetech spring conversion. That was the best thing I did for the bike. I don't care what brand or what modifications are performed. Air forks suck compared to spring forks.
spimx
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5/23/2020 11:03am Edited Date/Time 5/23/2020 11:04am
OLDMOTO wrote:
I had it on my 2016 KX450F. Worked much better. I had PC re-valve and install the kit. Its not hard to work on these forks...
I had it on my 2016 KX450F. Worked much better. I had PC re-valve and install the kit. Its not hard to work on these forks. Look on Youtube, there may be a video. I also ended up putting in a Racetech spring conversion. That was the best thing I did for the bike. I don't care what brand or what modifications are performed. Air forks suck compared to spring forks.
Thanks, I'm sure I'll figure it out. I just got to get this thing out 7/8 fits the best. Maybe some penatrating oil and maybe some heat.
spimx
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5/23/2020 11:07am

DB97
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5/23/2020 4:32pm
You're going to need a special tool to do the cartridge seal too I couldn't find it. Race tech sells the tool for the fork like you're showing though.

The Shop

spimx
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5/23/2020 7:46pm
DB97 wrote:
You're going to need a special tool to do the cartridge seal too I couldn't find it. Race tech sells the tool for the fork like...
You're going to need a special tool to do the cartridge seal too I couldn't find it. Race tech sells the tool for the fork like you're showing though.
Do you know what tool I need?
DB97
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5/24/2020 4:15am
DB97 wrote:
You're going to need a special tool to do the cartridge seal too I couldn't find it. Race tech sells the tool for the fork like...
You're going to need a special tool to do the cartridge seal too I couldn't find it. Race tech sells the tool for the fork like you're showing though.
spimx wrote:
Do you know what tool I need?

DB97
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5/24/2020 4:18am
https://youtu.be/DZ27aOQFM9s
This video shows a similar kit but at 4 minutes you'll see how to do the cartridge seal. If you can find a nut that slides down and fits maybe you can do it.
spimx
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5/24/2020 3:02pm
DB97 wrote:
https://youtu.be/DZ27aOQFM9s This video shows a similar kit but at 4 minutes you'll see how to do the cartridge seal. If you can find a nut that...
https://youtu.be/DZ27aOQFM9s
This video shows a similar kit but at 4 minutes you'll see how to do the cartridge seal. If you can find a nut that slides down and fits maybe you can do it.
do you remember the size of the nut? Ill just find that nut a weld it to a wrench
DB97
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5/24/2020 5:19pm
spimx wrote:
do you remember the size of the nut? Ill just find that nut a weld it to a wrench
No I tried drilling one out to slide it down but it wasn't the right size. I just gave up and put the fork together I was selling it anyway.
dmm698
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NY US
5/25/2020 4:33am
Just buy the tool. Pretty sure tusk makes one for half the price too. It’s convenient because you can flip it over and use it on other stuff (I believe I’ve done KYB inner cartridge cap removals, and some Showa stuff as well if I remember correctly) as well.
1
Lightning78
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Huntington Beach, CA US
5/25/2020 10:44am
OLDMOTO wrote:
I had it on my 2016 KX450F. Worked much better. I had PC re-valve and install the kit. Its not hard to work on these forks...
I had it on my 2016 KX450F. Worked much better. I had PC re-valve and install the kit. Its not hard to work on these forks. Look on Youtube, there may be a video. I also ended up putting in a Racetech spring conversion. That was the best thing I did for the bike. I don't care what brand or what modifications are performed. Air forks suck compared to spring forks.
Air forks have one benefit that I can guarantee It has an advantage over Spring forks and that is where you will always have the correct Spring rate by adding or removing air based on your needs, you'll never need to buy springs for them unless you do the conversion but are than that Yeah no for sure yeah definitely maybe........ OK yes they suck.

Which brings me to a another point,if they are that terrible and it is widely known they are pure pieces of garbage how come they're not selling on eBay and local classified sites for dirt cheap so people can purchase Spring Forks? From what I've been told, the spring conversion is the single best thing you can do to an ERR Fork (sp pun intended lol) but it doesnt 100% bring them to par with A fork manufactured with Springs from the get go.

I've done just about everything I can to my 2003 KX250 forks which are the 48mm open chamber forks aside from paying way too much for a revalve bec there are ZERO to 1 options up here in NORCAL for known suspension wizards. Have the correct spring rates, been messing with increased oil levels bec (and this is so goddam frustrating) apparently I been reading that THESE single year forks and their damping characteristics/adjustments work pretty much through the mid valve for both comp and rebound.....BUT from the factory they came with too much float so you can crank the clickers all the way in and the bike will still bottom just as easy as it does when you're at 15 clicks out. A face shim added to the midvalve in both directions makes a dramatic difference AND will give the clickers some functionality....... unfortunately, the midvalve is incredibly difficult to not only get out but also reinstall for an average mechanic the can do his own fork seals. I cant justify paying full price for a revalve plus shipping my forks both ways and extra charges for seals and oil (which are brand new)

Does anyone know someone in Norcal (I'm by stockton) that's capable or experienced with these open bath kyb forks when it comes to removing the mid valve and adding a face shim to each side of the comp and rebound stack? I can disassemble the entire fork and bring just the cartridge tube with the midvalve in it if that's easier. Not having my clickers work as a actual adjustment to prevent my phone and from bottoming on the face of steep jumps is frustrating
1
spimx
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Port Isabel, TX US
5/25/2020 12:56pm
OLDMOTO wrote:
I had it on my 2016 KX450F. Worked much better. I had PC re-valve and install the kit. Its not hard to work on these forks...
I had it on my 2016 KX450F. Worked much better. I had PC re-valve and install the kit. Its not hard to work on these forks. Look on Youtube, there may be a video. I also ended up putting in a Racetech spring conversion. That was the best thing I did for the bike. I don't care what brand or what modifications are performed. Air forks suck compared to spring forks.
Air forks have one benefit that I can guarantee It has an advantage over Spring forks and that is where you will always have the correct...
Air forks have one benefit that I can guarantee It has an advantage over Spring forks and that is where you will always have the correct Spring rate by adding or removing air based on your needs, you'll never need to buy springs for them unless you do the conversion but are than that Yeah no for sure yeah definitely maybe........ OK yes they suck.

Which brings me to a another point,if they are that terrible and it is widely known they are pure pieces of garbage how come they're not selling on eBay and local classified sites for dirt cheap so people can purchase Spring Forks? From what I've been told, the spring conversion is the single best thing you can do to an ERR Fork (sp pun intended lol) but it doesnt 100% bring them to par with A fork manufactured with Springs from the get go.

I've done just about everything I can to my 2003 KX250 forks which are the 48mm open chamber forks aside from paying way too much for a revalve bec there are ZERO to 1 options up here in NORCAL for known suspension wizards. Have the correct spring rates, been messing with increased oil levels bec (and this is so goddam frustrating) apparently I been reading that THESE single year forks and their damping characteristics/adjustments work pretty much through the mid valve for both comp and rebound.....BUT from the factory they came with too much float so you can crank the clickers all the way in and the bike will still bottom just as easy as it does when you're at 15 clicks out. A face shim added to the midvalve in both directions makes a dramatic difference AND will give the clickers some functionality....... unfortunately, the midvalve is incredibly difficult to not only get out but also reinstall for an average mechanic the can do his own fork seals. I cant justify paying full price for a revalve plus shipping my forks both ways and extra charges for seals and oil (which are brand new)

Does anyone know someone in Norcal (I'm by stockton) that's capable or experienced with these open bath kyb forks when it comes to removing the mid valve and adding a face shim to each side of the comp and rebound stack? I can disassemble the entire fork and bring just the cartridge tube with the midvalve in it if that's easier. Not having my clickers work as a actual adjustment to prevent my phone and from bottoming on the face of steep jumps is frustrating
Dude if you have nothing to add about the pro circuit upgrade kit start your own post.
spimx
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5/25/2020 5:28pm
This is where I'm at, this job is much harder than I thought it would be. I need to fabricate a clamp to hold the inner cartridge without crushing it so I can take the inner cartridge seal out.
spimx
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Port Isabel, TX US
5/25/2020 5:30pm
Does anyone know of a way to hold the inner cartridge firmly so I can remove that seal.
5/25/2020 9:47pm
Hole saw the same diameter in a 2x4 and then cut it in half. The kerf of the blade will give you the relief you need for clamping in a vise. Wood won't hurt the aluminum. Also you need to drill out or roll out the peen marks that hold the seal head in. They seem to be still present in your last photo.
spimx
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Port Isabel, TX US
5/27/2020 5:32pm

spimx
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Port Isabel, TX US
5/27/2020 5:45pm
So I went to cut some wooden blocks to hold the aluminum internal chamber better and my saw died. I came up with this rig and had very little torque on the vise. I put some heat and it came apart. So far no scratches on the parts I just hope I have not warped the diameter of the inner rod or inner chamber.


Pro Circuit sent me the wrong parts. Wrong diameter, I will call them tomorrow.

I'm fine with buying the right clamps to hold the forks and specialty tools but every time I get a package on top of tires and regular stuff my wife spends thousands of dollars on new furniture

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