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Joined
2/25/2020
Location
Odessa, FL
US
Hi all, figured I'd post here for advice.
My son stripped his trans oil hole on his '15 KX100 (same casings as KX85)
The bolt is snug but leaking for sure.
Ordered a new bolt and a 10mm/1.5 thread chaser/restorer. Hopefully those work.
If not, does anyone know if there's room to tap it to 12mm? I heard a helicoil/timesert aren't the best ideas there and hoping I don't need new casings obviously.
I saw pics on eBay of used casings p/n 14001-0681, to see what's inside and it's so hard to tell. The inside of the hole is definitely close to something but do I have 1mm all the way around to drill?
Thanks in advance!
Mile
My son stripped his trans oil hole on his '15 KX100 (same casings as KX85)
The bolt is snug but leaking for sure.
Ordered a new bolt and a 10mm/1.5 thread chaser/restorer. Hopefully those work.
If not, does anyone know if there's room to tap it to 12mm? I heard a helicoil/timesert aren't the best ideas there and hoping I don't need new casings obviously.
I saw pics on eBay of used casings p/n 14001-0681, to see what's inside and it's so hard to tell. The inside of the hole is definitely close to something but do I have 1mm all the way around to drill?
Thanks in advance!
Mile
The correct way to fix it is to split the cases and have the hole welded up and redrilled and tapped. Or buy a new set of cases.
Sometimes i wish the bike mfgs would install a key locking steel insert to prevent this problem in the first place.
https://www.amazon.com/Time-Sert-M10x1-5-Thread-Repair-1015/dp/B00OJDV5…
The Shop
Paw Paw
A Healicoil works great screwing a stainless steel insert into a smaller tapped hole
If the new bolt doesn't work, I think I'm going to drill/tap for an 11mm or 7/16 bolt. Can I use a standard flange bolt and crush washer since there are no oil pan bolts made in those sizes?
Worst case is drill/tap 12mm or heli coil or timesert
Worst worst case, new cases
Also if you elect to do one of the other new thread patches you could have the same thing as well as creating a place for oil to hide when you change oils and the stock case has a smaller hole that is very low in the drain that will now be covered up.
Repair or replace the case is still the best fixes.
Paw Paw
10 mm is slightly larger than the recommended tapping hole size but will work well. Seal the threads with a non hardening goop.
Here's what my options are
...................................................... Drill bit size converted to mm
A. 10mm x 1.5 stock.........................8.5mm
B. 11mm x 1.5..................................9.5mm
C. 7/16-20........................................9.9mm
D. Helicoil for 10mm x 1.5.................10.3mm
E. 12mm x 1.5 standard plug............10.7mm
E is out I think. If Plan A fails, going to try B or C but will have to use a flange bolt from hardware store as a drain plug.
Paw Paw
I've done this case save repair job many times over the last 45 years.
Use 7/16" unf.
Thanks!
Dont need to spend that much $$$ I have used these on Showa and KYB fork lugz that are stripped for the lower protectors
Search for HeliCoil and there are small kits you can buy for like $20
I am set to go with the 7/16 drill/tap and hopefully end up with as good as new solution.
Thanks!
I confirmed first that the 10mm hole was not salvageable. The new 10mm bolt was not able to be torqued properly either before or after chasing the threads with a thread cleaner (not a tap)
I drilled with a greased 25/64" bit, called for to tap a 7/16-20 unf thread. This step may not have been necessary but there was metal on the bit so I feel like the hole was cleaner to tap. Very little drilling was necessary, just in and out on low speed.
Next I tried to use a Gator tap block but it was too big to fit between the frame and casing so I cut a small square from a 1x2 block of wood, and drilled a proper hole to use as a tap block.
I then used a T-handle tap wrench and generously greased 7/16 tap. Backing out every now and then I made it through and backed out.
I flushed a couple of quarts of clean oil through and then with a copper washer, torqued the new 7/16 bolt a little at a time until torqued to spec.
I am not sure the tap block helped me to go in 100% straight, but the copper washer and bolt flange look flush and I haven't seen even a drop of oil or wetness 4 days after running the bike several times.
Cost of repair, was 1 tap and wrench, 1 drill bit, and a bolt and washer.
Thank you all for the detailed advice, I may not have succeeded without it! (and no helicoil to worry about coming out)
Mike
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