PLEASE HELP crf 450r no spark

Start replacing shit with known good parts till it works. Good luck.

Try testing the kill switch as they were a known problem.

Paw Paw

The kill switch is good because I tested it for the continuity and when I push the button there is continue the curent... I think that the ECU is that because the wiring diagram shows me that the curent from the alternator go through the Regulator,condensator and arives to the fuel pump and from there the curent goes to the ECU and from there goes nowhere...

Have you checked your tip over sensor?

Paw Paw

What means tip over sensor?

You did not state what year your bike is and thus it may or may not have this sensor. Do a search on line...
"CRF450R tip over sensor"
This will show you the images of various ones that Honda has used. It can go bad or I have even seen them installed upside down.
Also do a search on the site for the same thing and you will find some post of this issue on the 2009-2013 Hondas.
Most EFI bike have one.

Paw Paw

Borz#36 wrote:

The kill switch is good because I tested it for the continuity and when I push the button there is continue the curent... I ...more

Borz#36 wrote:

The kill switch is good because I tested it for the continuity and when I push the button there is continue the curent... I think that the ECU is that because the wiring diagram shows me that the curent from the alternator go through the Regulator,condensator and arives to the fuel pump and from there the curent goes to the ECU and from there goes nowhere...

...more

I've seen a kill switch tested for continuity but still cause the bike not too start. Might be worth disconnecting it and give it a shot.

The bike is 2013

I search on line and i did not find a tip over sensor for my bike...i think that the ecu is the problem

CarlinoJoeVideo wrote:

I've seen a kill switch tested for continuity but still cause the bike not too start. Might be worth disconnecting it and give ...more

CarlinoJoeVideo wrote:

I've seen a kill switch tested for continuity but still cause the bike not too start. Might be worth disconnecting it and give it a shot.

...more

But the switch is brand new

Borz#36 wrote:

The kill switch is good because I tested it for the continuity and when I push the button there is continue the curent... I ...more

Borz#36 wrote:

The kill switch is good because I tested it for the continuity and when I push the button there is continue the curent... I think that the ECU is that because the wiring diagram shows me that the curent from the alternator go through the Regulator,condensator and arives to the fuel pump and from there the curent goes to the ECU and from there goes nowhere...

...more

CarlinoJoeVideo wrote:

I've seen a kill switch tested for continuity but still cause the bike not too start. Might be worth disconnecting it and give ...more

CarlinoJoeVideo wrote:

I've seen a kill switch tested for continuity but still cause the bike not too start. Might be worth disconnecting it and give it a shot.

...more

x2

Plus repeat your search on the tip over sensor...Use the wording I had posted. Do a copy and paste and see what you find.

Paw Paw

Well i tried it with the kill switch unpluged... and i mesure the switch again...nothing...there is no spark and i search for the tip over sensor and the crf does not have one...i am thinking that the stator or the ECU is bad but 80%is that the ECU because i heard about the CKP sensor that it should be 240ohm BUT I'M NOT SURE and i didn't find somethig to help me in the service book...the alternator give 12V because i pluged in a 12V light bulb and it fired up...so the alternator i think that is good...from the alternator the current goes to the regulator and condensator and those are good and then the curent arrive to the fuel pump and i see that the fuel come out from it when i kickstart it and from there it should go to the ECU and from there i get nothing...the injector thoes not work and the coil doesn't get current also...so should i order another ECU?i can't swap parts from another 2013 crf450r because in this area is the only 2013...

FYI: You do understand that the stator does more than just provide 12 volts, right? There are 2 trigger coils that are mounted in the wiring harness that provide various impulses for ignition and fuel pump operations. I think I would test the wiring harness from stem to stern before I would purchase a CD box as any one of many wires may be pinched or the trigger coils may have become dislodged in the crash and some connections may just need cleaning.

Paw Paw

I cleand the connectors and i mesure for continuity every single wire

Did you check to see if the pulse generators are creating a pulse?

Paw Paw

Paw Paw wrote:

Did you check to see if the pulse generators are creating a pulse?

Paw Paw

Paw Paw wrote:

Did you check to see if the pulse generators are creating a pulse?

Paw Paw

...more

Yes and they create

Well i ordered a used ECU from a working bike and i still have no spark i checked again the wire harness and o think that i have a short to the ground or i don't know because the service book says if it's continuity between a wire and the ground i should have short in that wire...and if i don't have than i should change the ECM and the problem is that all the wires have continuity to the ground....all the wire witch the book say...

What was damaged in your crash? Did your bike go into water or anything?

brian352 wrote:

What was damaged in your crash? Did your bike go into water or anything?

brian352 wrote:

What was damaged in your crash? Did your bike go into water or anything?

...more

No...the handlebar was compleately destroyed and also the cluch brake stop button but i changed them

It sounds crazy but I would start by removing as much as I can to gain access to each and every electrical connector. Then take it off and re-seat it to make sure it's on. Or at least push on all of them. With of your controls being pulled on in the wreck, it may have done more damage than you initially realized. But your best bet is to visually inspect everything on that bike.

brian352 wrote:

It sounds crazy but I would start by removing as much as I can to gain access to each and every electrical connector. Then ...more

brian352 wrote:

It sounds crazy but I would start by removing as much as I can to gain access to each and every electrical connector. Then take it off and re-seat it to make sure it's on. Or at least push on all of them. With of your controls being pulled on in the wreck, it may have done more damage than you initially realized. But your best bet is to visually inspect everything on that bike.

...more

I tried this method probably 10 times but still no spark and no injector pulverisation

Look at your kill switch and the wiring to it.

Paw Paw

Maybe take a tiny screwdriver and push into the back of the connectors while they are plugged in, this will sometimes reset a pin that moves backwards when you plug in the connector.
Had one with continuity, but once plugged in the pin moved and I couldn't see it was not making contact.
Push, pull, wiggle wire harness while kicking, see if it sparks.

speed_racer wrote:
Maybe take a tiny screwdriver and push into the back of the connectors while they are plugged in, this will sometimes reset a ...more

speed_racer wrote:
Maybe take a tiny screwdriver and push into the back of the connectors while they are plugged in, this will sometimes reset a pin that moves backwards when you plug in the connector.
Had one with continuity, but once plugged in the pin moved and I couldn't see it was not making contact.
Push, pull, wiggle wire harness while kicking, see if it sparks.

...more

Where i should plug the screwdriver? In the back of the connector?

Can somebody explain with the diagram with the wire betwen a cable and the ground? I don't understand why if there is continuity is a problem and if not that also is a problem ...

?

That page doesn't make sense without the whole book.
Stator,ECU,Wire harness control spark.
You have no pulse, nothing firing the ECU, so it won't send the signal to the coil or injector.
I don't know how a Stator/Pulser can break in a crash, but it sounds like you have a bad Pulser?
Is there a simple resistance check for the Pulser, should be two wires?
You could have cracked the magnet on the flywheel?
The mystery no sparkers are always the hardest to figure out.
If you do not think it's the harness get the puller and inspect the magnet and stator.