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Basically none, it's a fraction of a PSI too small to measure with a shock filling gauge.
Edit: Before someone thinks I am confused, both shocks would rise to about 175psi at 150f, it's the difference between them that would be too small to measure, 174.8 vs 174.9 maybe.
If you're the manufacturer or a high volume shop where nitrogen only adds 10 cents or whatever to the cost of each shock fill then sure, the tiny benefits are worth it. But DIYers don't need to worry about using an air shock pump.
For those of you that have your doubts.... Just try you have nothing to lose.... Fill with regular air, try and if you really feel any difference... Empty and then look for the nitrogen..... I really doubt you will do the last
The Shop
Seriously, though, I always run nitrogen since I have a setup and have been doing it for decades, but I doubt there's much harm or difference in using air. Keep in mind, the air only touches the bladder and bladder cap. So it's not like there's much risk of corrosion from the moisture content. And, as pointed out, the pressure stability across the normal operating range is likely negligible.
If you're making thousands of them, and most of them are going to people who won't check the pressure for 5+ years, then yes it's worth an extra penny for N2.
Hi, sorry for the intrusion. I'm building a 1981 Suzuki RM465. Have a problem with the shock. Hose is a bit worn near to the shock inlet but just checked reservoir and its got nitrogen. Problem is its not lifting or returning. There is some resistance when pulling it back up manually but it then slowly drops back down. Shock seems to be in rather good condition, no oil leaking, good chrome, even retains its original paint.
Have you guys any idea why it's not returning?
Regards
Gaz
The biggest reason the oems run nitrogen in the bladder vs super dry air is that the nitrogen doesn't bleed through the bladder as fast as air. They know that most peolple aren't going to rebuild their suspension often enough if at all. An the for people that dont ride often and the bike sits. Nitrogen just keeps it alive longer. If your using dry air at about halfway to when you should do a rebuild check it's pressure it's likley low. Proably around 80-100psi. Shock will feel a bit better for the last few hours. Thats at least what ive noticed using air for a couple years and looking into a little of the science behind the gasses and air.
Now i just use a mtb nitrogen tire cartridge get it up to 150psi or 100-125psi and finish it off with dry air or mtb pump if its a,used cartridge. They seems to alway die around 100-125 psi so the little air is negligible as theres alot of nitrogen in air to begin with.
Cheers for the information. Very helpful. The reservoir has no valve cap and I'm hoping someone's simply been messing with it, letting the nitrogen out. It could explain why it's still got nitrogen. I've had the shock about 6 years myself. Still fitted to the old frame. I'll look onto the MBT nitrogen canisters and probably give it a go, either that or pop it into the bike shop and top it up.
Thanks again for your help.
Kind regards Gaz
My understanding is that it's not really about the nitrogen, it's more about the oxygen. Oxygen is reactive with both the rubber parts as well as the fluid. The byproducts of the reaction effect lubricity and viscosity. Advances in synthetics and additives helps fight the oxidation of the fluid, but heat and agitation are two major accelerators to the oxidation process. so while air is mostly nitrogen, reducing the reactive element of oxygen should prolong oil life, especially in the case of bladder equipped shocks due to a MUCH more rapid permeation rate. Oxygen reacts with the bladder membrane as well.
Like many things, there's many ways to skin a cat. so the good/better/best compromise probably applies here, as well as "the enemy of good is perfection", which from my understanding suggests that the inability to do it perfectly results in nothing being done at all. If access to a nitrogen charging setup is the barrier keeping you from regular service intervals, then I guess compressed air will have to do.. but again, considering all of the other hurdles involved in obtaining and riding a motocross bike and servicing the shock yourself up to the point of charging it.. finding n2 is a small hurdle.
Dry air is better to reduce/eliminate water vapor content which condenses and obviously affects lubricity (especially in the case of a separating piston setup) , nitrogen is best to eliminate water vapor content and reduce oxygen content. You could go one step further in saying that a bladder equipped shock will have a greater benefit from nitrogen over a separating piston shock, simply due to the permeation rate and resulting gas contamination in the fluid.
There are plenty of suspension applications where air is utilized, It's important to realize HOW the air is utilized. MFG's offering Infinite adjustability and weight reduction are HUGE selling features. . The end user is given hand pumps to make those adjustments, so the system is designed accordingly, and service intervals recommended accordingly (and hopefully support networks) to mitigate those potential performance or reliability compromises.
If you do suspension work commercially or begin doing a higher volume of suspension you'll realize VERY quickly that mitigating variables is paramount. So for me, the N2 setup is a small price to pay for knowing that whatever problem we are trying to solve, is not due to the charging gas.
Pit Row
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