New to Pit Bikes? 2018 Pitster Pro LXR 190F Build/Assembly

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9/10/2017 8:52 AM
Edited Date/Time: 9/10/2017 9:10 AM

For some reason This thread ended up in here instead of Bike builds. Please delete.... I have moved it to bike builds.,46/New-to-Pit-Bikes-2018-Pitster-Pro-LXR-190F-Build-Assembly,1326525

Yes I realize that this is a little different than what usually is posted on vital. A build on a Chinese pit bike. I never imagined myself with one of these in my stable. But here we are!

I seen a pit bike race at Unadillia a few weeks ago and decided that this is something I wanted to try. So here I sit with a delivery of a Pitster Pro LXR190F 14/12 in my driveway last Friday.

I bought this over a build up of a KLX110 (or similar type) for a couple reasons. For what I was getting for 2500 bux I could not duplicate with a Jap build. Not even close. A built up 110 at 190cc I do no think will be reliable either. Who knows, this machine may be a complete turd. I suppose that is to be determined. Also the specs at Pitsters website. It seems like I am getting a lot of standard equipment that is stock, compared to other machines in this cc/price point range. Plus I am getting a 5 speed tranny and electric start.

This was purchased from:

Shawn Lowe

The Pitbike Dr.
2127 Dayton Rd
Newark , OH 43055


Shawn seemed to be very knowledgeable and answered my questions with what I consider a authoritative manor. Seemed to know his way around a Chinese machine. I hope he did not steer me wrong! It is also quite possible that I did not ask the right questions. More on this in a later installment.


This is how the bike arrived.


As you can see, the bottom of the crate is pretty mangled. This could have been avoided by using stand offs on the bottom of the crate so the fork lift could get under it. As it is now the bottom of the crate sits flush with ground. The fork lift operator just plunged in from the side. Lucky no damage was found. Thanks Old Dominion, and some of the blame has to go to Pitster for a sub-par crate design.

Also of note: Right off the bat I spotted a missing tank shroud... I thought... REALLY?


I uncrated the machine and put it on my lift.

The pieces parts were securely fastened to the crate and were well protected. No dents or scratches were present. I was surprised, considering the damage to the very mangled, very thin gauge crate.

The assembly

Be forewarned. Although there is an owners manual, it says nothing about the assembly process. Actually it says a bunch of stuff, none of which I have used as this has been typed. Pretty useless. You do get a screwdriver and a spark plug extracting tool. Oh and a pouch for the tools. smile

Oh, seems like the factory decided to go on a cost cutting spree by not welding nuts on the frame. Some fasteners that go through the frame you have to fiddle with a nut.. tisk tisk... sad Speaking of bolts, I hate allen bolts. I really do. They pack up with dirt & are a PITA to get out in the field. This machine is littered with metric allens. The heads of other bolts are 8, 10, 12, one 13 (kickstarter), 14, 17, 19 and 27 mm bolts/nuts.

When you buy a Chinese machine, you the end user, are the setup mechanic. Every nut and bolt needs checked, as well as all bearings need greased. I am not going into the set up process in general. Although there are some items that are worth mentioning.

The rear brake pedal needs to be massaged for my taste. As of right now I cannot see how the spring would work. I am in the process of modding that. While we are on the subject of brake pedal, there is an extreme amount of play in the rear brake master clevis to pedal pin. I ended up machining a new larger diameter pin & drilling out the clevis. There is an excessive amount of play in the pedal to frame mounting area. For right now I am living with this.

Check the valves. Mine were tight as hell. Set to 4 thousandths intake and 6 exhaust.

Whoever thought up of the front number plate mounting must have had a hangover. Two brackets and six bolts later and I was ready for a shot myself!

The seat has 3 bolts to remove. The rear fender is bolted onto the back of the seat. Seems like a better design could be had. You have to remove the seat for shock dampening changes (compression).

I center drilled the rear axle & swingarm bolt so I could align the rear wheel with the swingarm pivot bolt.

Not really happy with the shifter. Seems like it is going to be in the way of my boot. Or the boot is going to be in the way of the shifter. I will ride the bike & make a decision.

I took off the kick starter. Seems like the kicker will get in the way of the boot. I have an electric spinner anyway, right?

Does come with Pro Taper grips, and Maxxis intermediate tires. Oh, as an added bonus, included at no extra charge, a NGK CR9E! Woo hoo!

This bike does have a key ignition. It is also wired for lights. I plan on eliminating as much wiring as possible, that is if I like the bike on the track. I also want to replace the oil in the forks as well as the brake fluid in the very near future.

Also I am replacing the chain with my fav brand Regina. I noticed some of the bikes that raced at 'Dillia, had a high chain failure rate. There were several new bikes there, sold at the track by a vendor. Brand SSR.

As I stated earlier, I am missing the left tank shroud and graphics. I also found a front brake caliper bolt missing. Texted Shawn today & he said he would get right on it! Good man...

Only thing left to do is change out the fish oil in the tranny and fire it up.

This pic is of this writing. No protective paper has been taken off the graphics yet...

I do have some other issues, but I will wait until I call the manufacturer. Will be back when I have more to report!


A big thanks goes out to Donnie at Morgantown Powersports and RJ at Beaver Creek Cycles