Looking for a yz250 case

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2/28/2020 6:52 PM

Have posted on here about my case issue. Deciding just to replace it instead of rigging it up. Looking for the left side. I have checked eBay and can’t find anything that is worth buying for a reasonable price. Will pay for shipping of course. Let me know if you have one or know of a company that may have one.

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2/29/2020 6:17 AM

What year?

Paw Paw

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2/29/2020 6:19 AM

Paw Paw 271 wrote:

What year?

Paw Paw

Preferably 2006 and up. I’ve heard 02 will fit but the transition from steel to aluminum frame take some dremeling where the swingarm pivot bolts go

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2/29/2020 7:13 AM

Paw Paw 271 wrote:

What year?

Paw Paw

I found a case but when I first took the cases apart the crank wanted to stay in the left case (the case I’ll be changing) and I had to take the crank out with the main bearing connected to it. Well when I do this swap I will be changing the crank bearing on that side but how do I make sure the crank bearing that is currently in there come out with the case half and I don’t end up with my new crank (reusing the new crank I installed) with a crank bearing pressed onto the side? Hard to explain. I want to pull the case half off without the bearing staying pressed onto my crank. That way I just install a new crank bearing in the new case and then press it together. Instead of pulling my crank out due to the crank being stuck in that side.

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2/29/2020 1:36 PM

Paw Paw 271 wrote:

What year?

Paw Paw

Blackjack31 wrote:

Preferably 2006 and up. I’ve heard 02 will fit but the transition from steel to aluminum frame take some dremeling where the swingarm pivot bolts go

No, what year is your bike?

Paw Paw

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2/29/2020 1:40 PM

Paw Paw 271 wrote:

No, what year is your bike?

Paw Paw

2013

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2/29/2020 1:46 PM
Edited Date/Time: 2/29/2020 1:48 PM

Yes you will need a 2006 and up case.
If the crank comes out with the bearing on it, just pull it off (with the proper puller) and reuse it as it has not been used or heated yet.
This puller works great.
https://www.harborfreight.com/bearing-separator-and-puller-set-62593.html?_br_psugg_q=bering+puller

Paw Paw

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2/29/2020 1:48 PM

Paw Paw 271 wrote:

Yes you will need a 2006 and up case.
If the crank comes out with the bearing on it, just pull it off (with the proper puller) and reuse it as it has not been used or heated yet.
This puller works great.
https://www.harborfreight.com/bearing-separator-and-puller-set-62593.html?_br_psugg_q=bering+puller

Paw Paw

10-4. Thank you. Seems like you are helping me out with something every week haha

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2/29/2020 7:10 PM

2011 was the first year for the neutral indicator sensor on the case for the shift cam. Since your bike is a '13 you would need a '11-current left side case which has the boss and tapped screw holes for the gear position sensor.

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2/29/2020 7:12 PM

DynoDan22 wrote:

2011 was the first year for the neutral indicator sensor on the case for the shift cam. Since your bike is a '13 you would need a '11-current left side case which has the boss and tapped screw holes for the gear position sensor.

You can just do without that though can’t you? I’ve seen people crack those sensors and just take it off, seal it up, and disconnect it. Unless I’m getting something confused.

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3/1/2020 6:26 AM

Technically you can yes but I didn't know if you were adamant about keep the sensor. I just wanted to bring it up that the cases are different.

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3/1/2020 7:50 AM

DynoDan22 wrote:

Technically you can yes but I didn't know if you were adamant about keep the sensor. I just wanted to bring it up that the cases are different.

As long as it doesn’t mess it up I’m fine with it

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3/2/2020 2:57 AM

Paw Paw 271 wrote:

Yes you will need a 2006 and up case.
If the crank comes out with the bearing on it, just pull it off (with the proper puller) and reuse it as it has not been used or heated yet.
This puller works great.
https://www.harborfreight.com/bearing-separator-and-puller-set-62593.html?_br_psugg_q=bering+puller

Paw Paw

Is there any point in me taking off the primary gear and taking apart the shift paw mechanism and shift drum when I go to make the switch?

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3/2/2020 3:11 AM

Not really ,other than to get the case real clean and to inspect.

Paw Paw

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3/3/2020 11:58 AM

Paw Paw 271 wrote:

Yes you will need a 2006 and up case.
If the crank comes out with the bearing on it, just pull it off (with the proper puller) and reuse it as it has not been used or heated yet.
This puller works great.
https://www.harborfreight.com/bearing-separator-and-puller-set-62593.html?_br_psugg_q=bering+puller

Paw Paw

The left and right case part numbers that replaced all superceded part numbers is 5NX-15111-02-00 and BF1-15121-01-00. They are the same part numbers from 2002 through 2010.

The right side case BF1-15121-01-00 is still used all the way through the 2020 bike according the fiche. The left side case changed for the neutral switch as already mentioned. Zipty Racing sells a block off kit for the nuetral switch case indicator, so the bike will work with out the switch and I assume could use an earlier case.

The 1999 through 2001 case can also work if you are willing to enlarge the inner diameter of the swing arm arm pivot bolt bushing that is pressed into the cases. The swing arm pivot bolt was enlarged in 2002 and that is the only difference.

I've successfully mixed and matched a number of 02 and newer cases with the 99-01 cases without issues on engines I've repaired and rebuilt.

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3/3/2020 12:07 PM

captain.olives wrote:

The left and right case part numbers that replaced all superceded part numbers is 5NX-15111-02-00 and BF1-15121-01-00. They are the same part numbers from 2002 through 2010.

The right side case BF1-15121-01-00 is still used all the way through the 2020 bike according the fiche. The left side case changed for the neutral switch as already mentioned. Zipty Racing sells a block off kit for the nuetral switch case indicator, so the bike will work with out the switch and I assume could use an earlier case.

The 1999 through 2001 case can also work if you are willing to enlarge the inner diameter of the swing arm arm pivot bolt bushing that is pressed into the cases. The swing arm pivot bolt was enlarged in 2002 and that is the only difference.

I've successfully mixed and matched a number of 02 and newer cases with the 99-01 cases without issues on engines I've repaired and rebuilt.

Thank you for the detailed reply! I have a 2006 case in the way. Obviously with no neutral switch but I don’t care about that. Somebody Told me the cases said they had to be bought together and some say no, not Yamaha. I just don’t see how if Yamaha sells cases seperate, they wouldn’t match. Obviously I guess buying together would be better but unless they are bored out and cut as a whole, then cut in half, then I don’t see why buying together would be beneficial at all. I am just confused as to why people would believe it’s beneficial or an advantage at all to buy together if the part isn’t ran at the same time and in the same program.

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3/3/2020 12:20 PM

No, you do not need to buy a matched set for the Yamaha YZ250. As you all ready know, you can't even buy a matched set from Yamaha for the YZ250. Some makes and models are manufactured and machined as a matched set, others not. The YZ250 is not one of them.

I'd have to defer to someone more knowledgeable to give a good explanation of why some makes and models are and some aren't. I'm no pro wrench or engineer, but have rebuilt a fair share of YZ250 motors.

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3/3/2020 12:28 PM

captain.olives wrote:

No, you do not need to buy a matched set for the Yamaha YZ250. As you all ready know, you can't even buy a matched set from Yamaha for the YZ250. Some makes and models are manufactured and machined as a matched set, others not. The YZ250 is not one of them.

I'd have to defer to someone more knowledgeable to give a good explanation of why some makes and models are and some aren't. I'm no pro wrench or engineer, but have rebuilt a fair share of YZ250 motors.

Yeah I would like to talk to somebody more knowledgeable about other models cause it doesn’t make any sense to me. I run a CNC machine and make commercial and military parts and if the bores and everything are in spec then it’s good. If it’s not then it’s scrap. The ONLY way I could see it is if it was machined together and then cut down the middle but to me that just seems... stupid. Makes me wonder if it’s a true thing or if it’s just a way to make more money.

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3/3/2020 12:59 PM
Edited Date/Time: 3/3/2020 1:07 PM

Good question, I've always been curious myself. I know for vintage street bikes, this was a real thing. But manufacturing tolerances were different then with the castings I'm sure.

The YZ250F cases are only sold in sets and cheaper, the set is just a bit more in price as one half on the YZ250. Yet I know its not a 2 vs 4 stroke thing as Kawasaki only sells their KX100 cases in sets.

I've also heard that a place like Pro Circuit can take a set of YZ250 cases and "match" them, but for the average Joe C level rider it isn't worth it. I believe the matching is the surface where the cylinder comes together with the case halves. This is just the little I've read online and heard, I have no real idea of the benefits pro or con and what it entails. I could only guess that with the makes and models that don't come matched, the base gasket is enough to compensate for any differences or irregularities. Just a guess. Hopefully someone with a deeper knowledge can chime in.

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3/3/2020 1:33 PM
Edited Date/Time: 3/3/2020 5:37 PM

matched cases are line bored/ honed as an assembled set... taking out any small problems that may occur during the casting process... however the casting process has come a long way (core shift has become almost non existent) and modern machining tolerance are much more accurate which could all be reasons why some cases are no longer sold as matched sets... I’d still like believe that engines straight off the assembly line have their cases finish machined as a whole (I may be wrong)... regardless if you're replacing one half it’s still a great idea to check if the bearing bores are linear with eachother as well as the deck height for the base gasket..

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3/3/2020 6:06 PM

Paul_Pitzonka wrote:

matched cases are line bored/ honed as an assembled set... taking out any small problems that may occur during the casting process... however the casting process has come a long way (core shift has become almost non existent) and modern machining tolerance are much more accurate which could all be reasons why some cases are no longer sold as matched sets... I’d still like believe that engines straight off the assembly line have their cases finish machined as a whole (I may be wrong)... regardless if you're replacing one half it’s still a great idea to check if the bearing bores are linear with eachother as well as the deck height for the base gasket..

Well hopefully one day all the companies will make it where you are able to buy cases seperate. Side question, with this new case I am installing a stock crank bearing and the other side has hot rods. Any issue with that? I know hot rods isn’t the “best” thing but if Eric gorr trusts them then I’ll give them a try. But I wouldn’t think a stock bearing and hot rods bearing is any different dimension wise but wanna double check with y’all just in case I’m overlooking something.

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3/3/2020 6:12 PM

Paul_Pitzonka wrote:

matched cases are line bored/ honed as an assembled set... taking out any small problems that may occur during the casting process... however the casting process has come a long way (core shift has become almost non existent) and modern machining tolerance are much more accurate which could all be reasons why some cases are no longer sold as matched sets... I’d still like believe that engines straight off the assembly line have their cases finish machined as a whole (I may be wrong)... regardless if you're replacing one half it’s still a great idea to check if the bearing bores are linear with eachother as well as the deck height for the base gasket..

Blackjack31 wrote:

Well hopefully one day all the companies will make it where you are able to buy cases seperate. Side question, with this new case I am installing a stock crank bearing and the other side has hot rods. Any issue with that? I know hot rods isn’t the “best” thing but if Eric gorr trusts them then I’ll give them a try. But I wouldn’t think a stock bearing and hot rods bearing is any different dimension wise but wanna double check with y’all just in case I’m overlooking something.

Same size just poorer quality bearing...

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